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twenty711

New Member
Aug 15, 2012
8
Chesapeake Beach, MD
Hello, what a great looking group you have here!

I just wanted to say hello and make my first post.

I have 2 fireplaces. I have a large masonry fireplace with a custom built in blower (could use a little fixing up!). I also have a fireplace with a wood stove insert. I was hoping I might be able to learn more about it, it is an EZ insert MH 11313. I used it as a suppliment to my heatpump last year, and once it got going it heated the whole house!
 
Welcome 20711, if you never come back it will save you lots of money;)Well, short term anyway.
 
Welcome aboard! Never heard of that insert, but surely someone who has will be along shortly.

And so it begins...
 
Thanks for your replies! Yes it is an older insert, and I have noticed that most stoves on here have some kind of lining. Mine does not. Would it be a good idea for me to put some kind of firebrick in there? What benefits would I gain by doing so?
 
Pics of my fireplaces!

DSC00898sm.jpg DSC00899sm.jpg
 
Cool vintage-looking insert. What's with the double handles on the front door?
 
As for your question about a liner, a metal flex liner, thats insulated would help the stove tremendously.

Right now its just gassing into the chimney. Or otherwise known as a "Slammer Install".

Is there a door gasket on the stove? Replacing all gaskets is a good idea.

Benefits of a liner are endless. And if and when you decide to upgrade. The liner will be there for a new EPA model :)
 
@twenty711 - don't forget to update your profile as to the part of the country you are located - and consider adding a signature line stating what you have. It's helps folks know some background. Welcome to the forum.
 
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Thanks for your replies! Yes it is an older insert, and I have noticed that most stoves on here have some kind of lining. Mine does not. Would it be a good idea for me to put some kind of firebrick in there? What benefits would I gain by doing so?

Hello and Welcome Twenty711 !

That stove looks identical to my buddies insert up north Michigan ! I never thought I would see another one. Yes his is lined with brick on the bottom and sides so I would imagine it needs to be lined as well. The brick will help keep the stove from warping/cracking as well as radiate heat longer. The bricks are made of fireclay and are very dense this causes them to radiate heat longer. That said some old stoves didn't use them however I would still line it as it can only help the stove & fire life. New stoves are EPA stoves and I don't think you could sell one without firebrick now. If you do not have a liner going up the chimney then don't use the stove till that is fixed you may not wake up in the morning otherwise. Slammer installs are very dangerous and can push smoke back into the house which can kill you.


Pete
 
Upon closer inspection, the bottom is indeed lined with firebrick, but not the sides. Where can I find firebrick?

This will be my second winter at this house, and prior to using any of the fireplaces (but after that rare earthquake we had), I had both fireplaces inspected and cleaned by a reputable chimney sweep, so I am sure everything is safe.

There is a rope gasket on the door, in fairly good shape.
 
Good info Pete and good points. To avoid confusion, there are two types of lining being discussed here. The first in the interior lining of the stove. If it was designed for firebrick and the firebrick is now missing, it should definitely be refitted with firebrick. This is inexpensive material often available at the local lumber yard for about $2-3 per brick.

The second lining is the chimney liner. An insert that is simply stuck in a fireplace with the face sealed is ofter referred to as a slammer or slip-in install. This is not a safe setup for a number of reasons and should be fixed. A full liner from chimney top to the stove flue collar is the safest way to have the stove connected. In the least, the insert should be stubbed with a liner to above the damper with a damper sealing plate at the damper throat. If uncertain, ask your chimney sweep how the stove is connected to the chimney.

https://www.hearth.com/econtent/index.php/articles/install_insert
 
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Upon closer inspection, the bottom is indeed lined with firebrick, but not the sides. Where can I find firebrick?

This will be my second winter at this house, and prior to using any of the fireplaces (but after that rare earthquake we had), I had both fireplaces inspected and cleaned by a reputable chimney sweep, so I am sure everything is safe.

There is a rope gasket on the door, in fairly good shape.
Give the door the dollar bill test to make sure its tight, close the door with half the dollar inside and then close and latch the door, try pulling the dollar out, if it sldes out you probably need new gasket.
 
You can get gasket and brick at Tractor Supply, Ace, stove shop, online.......
Might want to check the door to see if it's warped, since it's not sealing in those 2 spots. Not saying it is, but it may be. Straight edge is your friend.
There may be a method to adjust the door also, or at least the latch to get a tighter fit on that side.
 
Ok, great use of a Sunday afternoon today! I was able to find a door gasket, and it is currently drying as we speak. I also was able to find a box of firebrick, but I need another one. The store says they will be in later this week.

I am feeling like a caveman today. Any one notice how hard it is to find kerosine lately? Finally found it at the 4th gas station I went to.
 
Welcome to the site 711. Never ever skimp on safety ever, listen to these guys on here they will not steer you wrong. That is an old insert it may be time to upgrade to an EPA wood stove insert and do the job right, youll save a ton of wood, burn cleaner, and safer. Inserts are like everything else all different prices and styles. now lets talk wood, the wood you feed that stove is just as important for the stoves performance as anything else. Use only good dry wood never burn freshly split wood unless you have a moisture meter to check the fresh splits ( a reading of 20% and lower is considered ready to burn). I takes a good year to season split wood and longer for wood like oak, oak can take two to three years before its ready. I hope you really consider lining that chinmey as suggested above. Good luck and keep us posted on what you do.
 
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I am pretty sure the chimney does have a liner, but I am not going to pull the stove out to check. The chimney sweep did that with special rollers, and I think he did mention that it had a liner.

I have almost a cord of wood leftover from last year, but I am having difficulty finding a new vendor for wood. The wood I bought last year seemed too green to me, and did not light easily until towards the end of the winter.

I would love to get a new stove, or maybe even two! It is not going to happen this year, no budget for anything like that. Also my current stove seems to work pretty well, now the fireplace on the other hand, it doesn't put out hardly any heat. It is in a room that has not gotten much use, but this winter it may. It has two vents on the bottom, as you can see in the picture. One has a small electric fan, and the other is the exhaust. This does move a little bit of heat. I had thought of perhaps getting a more powerful fan that would still fit in the vent.
 
Well if you heated the house with green wood last year this year will be better not to mention you added fire bricks and a new gasket. Rule of thumb on this web site is to get three years ahead on your wood supply ( if you have room) so you dont have to take a sellers word for it thats its seasoned. Many of us on this site are addicted to getting more wood and our stoves, you may find yourself in the same boat lol.
 
Welcome to the site 711. Never ever skimp on safety ever, listen to these guys on here they will not steer you wrong. That is an old insert it may be time to upgrade to an EPA wood stove insert and do the job right, youll save a ton of wood, burn cleaner, and safer. Inserts are like everything else all different prices and styles. now lets talk wood, the wood you feed that stove is just as important for the stoves performance as anything else. Use only good dry wood never burn freshly split wood unless you have a moisture meter to check the fresh splits ( a reading of 20% and lower is considered ready to burn). I takes a good year to season split wood and longer for wood like oak, oak can take two to three years before its ready. I hope you really consider lining that chinmey as suggested above. Good luck and keep us posted on what you do.

:cool: Another convert. I love it.
 
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Chesapeake beach, I bought a stove from a lady there a few years back, nice place to live. Drive down the road 1 minute and your at the docks ready to go fishing.

The only tip I would give is to pull the surround off the insert and see if a liner is connected to the insert or if it is a slammer install, it is real easy to pull the surround off and put it back on, it might just be pushed up against the brick and stove. I would double check that to make sure it is not a slammer install as that can be a way for CO to leak into your house, you do have a CO detector right?
 
Your chimney sweep may have said you have a liner.... But its probably a standard clay liner (square tiles).

I second what Mellow said above, pull the surround and check to see if it has a metal liner attached to the stove collar..

(And any house that has a solid fuel burning device, should have a CO detector or 3. If you dont have one, I suggest getting one. Better safe than sorry)
 
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