Hello to all!!

[flash49]

I've been lurking on here for awhile so I thought it was time to say hello.
I burned wood back in the early 80's and i"m getting ready to do it again. After reading a lot of posts on here about different stoves, I've decided to go with the Lopi Revere insert. I think I got a good deal..$2000 for the stove and $200 for installation. They are going to install sometime in August.
We have been heating with a heat pump and I can only see the cost of electricity going up in the future.....and I'm tired of being cold!!
I'm going to try and attach a photo of some wood (already split) that my neighbor gave to me. He doesn't burn wood and this is from some trees he cut down...get this.. 5 to 6 years ago. He kept it covered so for the most part it is in good shape. It is probably 90% red oak. What you see in the photo is what I have moved to my place so far which is probably 2/3 of the total pile. I don't know what it would it would amount to in measuring by the cord. Here in southside Virginia wood is sold by the pick up truck load and usually runs $50 a load.
I've run my mouth enough for now so I'll sign off here
Jerry

 

[maplewood]

Welcome to the forum.
I must confess - when I think of wood burning areas, I don't usually include Virginia. I'm up next door to Maine - we burn from late October until some time in April.
Good score on your neighbours wood. Free wood burns the best. And it sounds like it's well seasoned. If you're going to keep at the wood burning game, get a cheap wood moisture meter - they go for about $20 on E-bay and have 2 or 4 metal prongs that you can poke into your wood. The meter should be able to measure at least 10-40% mositure. Use your ax and split open a piece and measure the fresh face of that split - aim for 20% or less moisture.
A cord is 4'x4'x8' = 128 cubic feet, stacked. If you get a stacked pick-up truck load well rounded it might be a half a cord. Don't be surprised if it isn't too well seasoned, and shows up at 30%+ on your meter. A moisture meter doesn't lie, and you need to season your wood for at least a year in most cases.
Your shed looks nice and dry. I see you are using pallets to stack on - a lot of us do that.
Happy burning this fall!

 

[laynes69]

Here is a link that I have in my favorites. When I stack wood I try to stay at 4 feet width and 4 feet high so I can measure my consumption. Anyhow this link is to figure out how much wood you have.

http://www.state.me.us/ag/firewood.html

You got a start there. Good luck!

 

[begreen]

Welcome Jerry. The $200 installation fee has me a bit concerned. Seems kind of low. Exactly what does the installation entail?

 

[flash49]

Our winters aren't too bad..not as cold as some of you fellas up North see. It got down to 12 a couple of times last winter. We use to have some real winters around her when I was a kid. Last year we only had one snowfall.
Thanks for the info on the moisture meter..I 'll check that out. I know some of this wood from my neighbor is way beyond useable. What was touching the ground is what we call doated wood ...not burnable. I tried to cull that as I was stacking it.
Jerry

 

[flash49]

Yeah...I thought $200 was kind of low when another outfit had quoted me $600. He doesn't think I need a liner...just connect to the existing flue.

 

[begreen]

A direct connect may be legal, but it may be he was trying to be low bidder or just avoid work. The stove is going to work better, be easier to clean and safer with a liner.

 

[Don Ed]

Welcome Aboard! I love checking in on this site and I learn something new everytime I log in. I know there will be many who comment on your installer not thinking you need a liner. I thought about that (I installed my stove with the help of my Dad and Brother) but read way too many things about the increased efficency and saftey of using a chinmey liner. I installed the liner myself too and purchased all the supplies I needed from Chimey Liner Depot. These are great folks to work with and I would go back if I ever move and have to start over.

Read carefully all you can about this liner question.

 

[flash49]

I guess I should mention that this is a zc fireplace with double wall pipe that hasn't seen but a few sticks of wood burned in it. Had gas logs for years as a backup only. So am I safe with a direct connect?

 

[begreen]

Most likely not. As I understand it, the reason being that the pipe is not as high temp rated. Do you have the make and model of the ZC?

 

[daryl]

A direct connect on a ZC fireplace is not a good idea.Read your manual and you well see that they always say a SS liner from top to bottom. The chimney you are thinking of hooking up to is not a class a hence cant direct connect it.Always better to be safe. Your lighting a fire in your house do not put you and your family at risk.Insist on a full SS liner it may cost more but it is safe and too code. Also make sure that your insert is ZC fireplace approved.

 

[flash49]

The fireplace is a Marco and is rated as UL 127. What does that mean? It is listed in the Lopi literature as one of the approved fireplaces.

 

[BrotherBart]

I must confess - when I think of wood burning areas, I don't usually include Virginia. I'm up next door to Maine - we burn from late October until some time in April.

It seems to surprise a lot of people. We heat exclusively with wood and will light off in late October. Season before last we had to burn until the first week of June.

Seldom below zero temps. But in the teens is plenty cold enough to keep a stove busy. The real hassle here is that it can be 40 degrees when you go to bed and 10 when you get up. Makes setting a night burn a real hassle. It makes you wish that a load of wood would burn in reverse.