Help a newbie figure out how to install his wood stove

[Jason867]

Check the burntubes inside of the stove. The early models used steel which burned out after time.

I think I know what you're talking about. My dad pointed them out to me, and they look like they'll last a while, especially with how little I'll use it.

 

[PapaDave]

especially with how little I'll use it

HAHAHAHAHA!
Oh, that just made my day. He thinks he'll not use it much. Funny stuff right there.

 

[Snotrocket]

It's only going to be backup heat. If you're on a limited budget your money is best spent on hiring a mason.

 

[Jason867]

Sorry I haven't updated this thread in a while, and I apologize but my original pictures aren't hosted anymore, so the original links are broken.

Here's a new link to all of the pictures of what I have currently.
http://imageshack.us/g/1/10291740/

I finally have the money to hook up this stove, so I've got questions.

What's the difference between rigid liner and class A? They appear to be two different things.

I've got a masonry chimney already in my home, with a 8.5" opening. My wood stove has a 6" vent. So I want to re-line my chimney with a 6" liner to get the best draft.

I'm going to use Champion rigid 6" 304L liner from Woodlanddirect.com to line my masonry chimney. Is this triple wall pipe? Or is it single wall? I can't find a definitive answer anywhere.

I'm assuming the liner is single wall, so I can't run it through the roof by itself, it'd be too hot. So can I hook up triple wall pipe to the liner, and just run the triple wall through the roof?

Also, the tee at the bottom, I just need to run it through a wall thimble correct? Will the black single wall stove pipe connect to the tee? Or is there an adapter I need?

 

[webby3650]

You need to open that hole in the wall & see what's in there for the thimble. That's gonna be your first issue.
Once that's shown to be ok (or not), you can then run your liner from a tee at the thimble to the top of the existing structure & attach it to an anchor plate. Then you will hafta continue thru the roof with Class A. You will need a flashing on the roof with a storm collar, & a cap on top. Looks like your roof penetration is gonna be close to the ridge beam, so your visible Class A is probably gonna be right at three feet (or a little more). You don't have a choice on the hearth pad. The MINIMUM dimensions will be specified by the plate on the stove & or the installation manual...Like schlot said, once you feel the heat, there's no turning back...

As stated above:
Starting at the stove, you will have black stove pipe all the way to the SS liner that is in chimney. The piece that passes through the thimble will connect to the Tee, on top of the Tee will be a vertical run of SS liner, this is single wall and it cannot leave the masonry chimney. At the very top, this liner will connect to an anchor plate, this anchor plate allows you to transition to Class double wall chimney. Attach the liner to this plate, anchor it down to the top of the masonry chimney and then continue the rest of the way with class A chimney. Class A only needs 2" of clearance to a combustible. The anchor plate from Hart & Cooley has a longer tail piece to attach to than some other brands. http://www.hartandcooley.com/products/tlcap/anchor-plate

It's unlikely that you will find this method approved in writing. The anchor plate is really designed to be attached to a masonry chimney, or to the top of a high efficiency fireplace. If it's approved to be attached to an unlined chimney, then even better if you can attach a liner to it! Use some furnace cement and 4 SS screws to attach the liner to the plate. It will work very well.