HELP~ Auger stops after 5-10 mins after Start~Up Mode...

[Snowy Rivers]

If the stove will run after the startup button is pressed and runs the same amount of time and will restart in start mode again, its the low limit switch thats bad.

All stoves have some sort of low limit switch as well as at least 1 high limit switch and most ahve two high limits to protect from hopper fire or over temp.

The low limit is gnerally on the exhaust fan housing or some place that will get heat fairly soon after the fire is built.

These are almost always a snap disc type device that fastens to the housing eithe by friction (press in) or with two screws)

So if your stove stops and it will restart and feed if the start button is pressed again, its not the auger motor.


Keep us posted.

Snowy

 

[lmjr]

If the stove will run after the startup button is pressed and runs the same amount of time and will restart in start mode again, its the low limit switch thats bad.

All stoves have some sort of low limit switch as well as at least 1 high limit switch and most ahve two high limits to protect from hopper fire or over temp.

The low limit is gnerally on the exhaust fan housing or some place that will get heat fairly soon after the fire is built.

These are almost always a snap disc type device that fastens to the housing eithe by friction (press in) or with two screws)

So if your stove stops and it will restart and feed if the start button is pressed again, its not the auger motor.


Keep us posted.

Snowy

I looked at the wiring diagram for this stove and all that Snowy and I have posted would only need reworded to say "THERMAL SENSOR" instead of Snap Sw, Low Limit ect.

Same principle different component name.

Better do some trouble shooting cause you may just end up with a SPARE Auger when a New one does the same thing as the Old

Control Panel does give the temporary timed Over-ride for the "low limit switch" to allow Proof of sustained burn.

After control panel times-out the "low limit switch" now being active (Closed) will allow auger feed until any other flame-out condition.

Your "low limit snap switch" is defective...It is a Normally Open Switch (N/O)...which Closes when heated to rated temperature.

Yours is staying open always...needs replaced. Or wire has come loose???

The 5-10 minutes you are seeing is the CP's timed "Grace Period" to allow low limit switch to get heated (Closed) and take over the auger circuit.

This is a feature to keep from emptying your hopper into a stove with no fire in it.

Note: There are 2 Snap Switches in the auger circuit and their functions are Very different. Be sure of which one you are working on.

Unplug Stove before exposing energized circuits!

 

[MCPO]

As suggested previously by Englander`s senior factory service technician , reversing the two auger motors is still the simplest , quickest , and easiest way to begin this troubleshooting procedure. Since the OP stated no E codes were displayed , I`d not assume that a heat sensor is bad, at least at this point.
It cost the user nothing to swap the motors and he gains practical and theory experience not to mention the confidence to fix his own stove.

It`s been a few days since the OP posted. Maybe he removed the back off the stove over the weekend and gave it a try? It would be nice to hear back from him.

 

[Lauryn8490]

We are working on it. We pulled it away from the wall today, and it had a lot of ashes built up. I dont know if that would cause it to do that. We are going to try the other things listed. I will keep you updated. Thanx for all the responses.

 

[MCPO]

We are working on it. We pulled it away from the wall today, and it had a lot of ashes built up. I dont know if that would cause it to do that. We are going to try the other things listed. I will keep you updated. Thanx for all the responses.

Actually a dirty stove (excessive ash buildup) is the leading cause of pellet stove problems and should be a priority for pellet stove maintenance. However I still think you got a bad auger motor.

A few of the most obvious causes of excessive ash buildup:
1...........infrequent and or incomplete cleaning of stove and vent system
2............improper venting installation
3............improper setting of stove controls
3............ poor quality pellets

 

[lmjr]

Well with a dirty stove the *Thermal Sensor* will do just what it designed to do and Shut Down the Auger.

Thermal Sensor and Auger Motors are just fine.

My money's on Nothings Wrong...Good Cleaning and you're back in Business

Here's a Link to clean out that vent:

Enjoy

Leaf Blower Trick Videos

 

[smwilliamson]

I have replaced 14 auger motors this year for PDVC and PI 25's. Every one of them started with lower auger not turning after 5 to 10 minute cycle. The coil wears out. You could wrap another coil or buy another motor.

ENGLANDER USES A THERMAL SENSOR NOT A SNAP DISC. LOOK FOR E3 FAILURE FOR HEAT SENSOR. ITS USUALLY NOT BAD, JUST BAD CONNECTIONS OR WIRES TOUCHING EACH OTHER AT BASE.
E2 IS FAILURE TO START IN 13 MINUTE START UP CYCLE
E1 ERROR iS THE DIRTY STOVE VACUUM SWITCH ERROR

Sometimes you can lubricate the auger motor to correct it but usually the coil is weak.

Switching the motors is an easy trouble shooter but there is more strain on the upper motor. You'll get inconsistent feeds and the fire may go out.

Grainger had a 2rmp motor with a 5/16 flat shaft for $52.45 (Dayton made by Gleason Avery). You can flip the coil over to reverse the polarity for CCW rotation and use that motor on the bottom. You'll get a faster feed to the fire but the amount of total pellet feed is still regulated by the upper auger. Works fine but can be inconsistent on #1 setting. I forget how we trimmed the low heat setting to compensate for this. I think we shot it down to 2 or 3.

 

[Lauryn8490]

Working on the stove again... Are the augers supposed to be pointing down, the top one is on top of the bottom one? Or are they supposed to be straight
Thanx in advance

 

[MCPO]

Working on the stove again... Are the augers supposed to be pointing down, the top one is on top of the bottom one? Or are they supposed to be straight
Thanx in advance

Hmm, Not sure what you mean but if it`s the square set screws facing each other that`s just they ended up after the last shutdown. They might be more difficult to get at in that position.

 

[NEStoveOwner]

The stove mfg date is 10/04, we have owned it for 2 1/2 years, never a problem till now. I didn't think it was the Auger because it works in start~up mode.

If it consistantly stops at exactly the same time after startup it might not be the auger and I`d be more inclined to look elsewhere but you have to start troubleshooting the obvious first and at this point swapping the motors would still be the thing to do. Trouble shooting is often a process of elimination.

Agree with GIO on swapping motors as a first step.

Lauryn, My auger always worked in start up mode but failed when the insulating coating on the windings shorted when the motor temp became elevated. Motor windings become shorted and they cant deliver enough torque to drive the auger. You can verify this by connecting a multimeter to the motor leads. If they see 110v than 0v than 100v and etc (as the controller is trying to drive the motor and stop driving it) and the motor doesnt spin when the leads are getting 110v than you have shorted windings.

I got tired of paying Englander a 100% markup on auger motors:

https://www.hearth.com/econtent/index.php/forums/viewthread/34017/