HELP!! Englander 25-PDVC keeps blowing circuit board fuse

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Insert one of the probes into a clip and touch the other one to the igniter case.
Then insert that probe into the other clip and touch the case with the other probe.Report both readings please.

Readings on the 200ohm scale for both leads/case were as tested when I inserted the probes into the 2 leads: '1 .' This is, I assume, no continuity, or no short to the casing?

The test that Mike was talking about involves using either a 120 volt device in place of the igniter or using a voltmeter. He wants to see if there is power in the igniter circuit from the control board when there shouldn't be.

I rigged up a power cord with 2 female spade clips on one end, 60W light bulb on the other. So, do I attach the 2 clips to the control board lugs for the ignitor, manually get the fire going, and turn on the stove? I'd expect to see the light come on initially, then go out after the 'S' 'U' lights go out, indicating a successful start-up? Or is there another test procedure?
 
I rigged up a power cord with 2 female spade clips on one end, 60W light bulb on the other. So, do I attach the 2 clips to the control board lugs for the ignitor, manually get the fire going, and turn on the stove? I'd expect to see the light come on initially, then go out after the 'S' 'U' lights go out, indicating a successful start-up? Or is there another test procedure?
Don't need a light bulb....just use the Volts setting on your volt/ammeter....set it to AC volts, 200 volt scale, or whatever the next higher one above 120 is. Connect probes to ignitor leads from the control board. When stove ignitor is supposed to come on, it should read pretty close to 120.
 
Don't need a light bulb....just use the Volts setting on your volt/ammeter....set it to AC volts, 200 volt scale, or whatever the next higher one above 120 is. Connect probes to ignitor leads from the control board. When stove ignitor is supposed to come on, it should read pretty close to 120.
Triacs can leak enough current to give a false "on" reading.This isn't a reliable test. The, low tech, light bulb is straight forward and reliable.
 
Triacs can leak enough current to give a false "on" reading.This isn't a reliable test. The, low tech, light bulb is straight forward and reliable.
OK, I stand informed (not an electrical engineer). Good to know, though.
 
Update: I got ahold of tech support, and he suggested connecting the exhaust blower to the ignitor contacts, which I did, and we verified voltage to the ignitor.He didn't tell me how to check if the ignitor turns off after start-up, so I connected my light bulb, lit the stove manually, pressed 'ON', and the bulb come on right away. I waited until start cycle completed, and the bulb went out the instant the 'S' 'U' lights went off, so everything seems normal. I stand by my original contention that the replacement ignitor was faulty. Hope the new one from Englander will last longer....
 
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