Ok so I have an Ashley 5500XL. Not my first pellet stove (actually 3rd) it sometimes cuts out for a split sec here and there. What i mean it seems to lose the exhaust and room blower at the same time. Called US Stove got a new control board didn't fix the issue. So knowing that the main components of pellet stoves are the same has anyone ran into something like this with their stove and what was the issue. Any help would be appreciated.
HELP!!! Frustrated.......
- Thread starter windsword
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stoveguy2esw
Minister of Fire
could be power spikes , are you running the unit through a surge protector? this would be a cheap but wise investment. some control systems these days are "digital" our is as well we strongly recommend this type device on our units for this reason. it could be as simple as power spikes.
I have mine on an APC Back-UPS with surge protection intended for high end computers with $150,000 of connected equipment coverage so I doubt if that's the issue. Plus I have computers, routers and other electrical that is a lot more sensative with no problems out of any of it. I just contacted another member that has the same stove I have and he has the same exact problem so I'm thinking some sort of defective lot of parts. Close to the same manufacturing date as well.
stoveguy2esw
Minister of Fire
windsword said:
ok good, i didnt know so i had to bring it up. not being my brand i hesitate to say it could be a production problem ,, but im honest enough to say its a possibility with any maker. if so im sure that US stove which does have a very good support staff will be able to get you taken care of. i would suggest that you do keep in contact with them as (i would ask you to do if it were my stove) to not only get your issue taken care of but also to provide feedback to them so they may better help any others who may have a similar issue.
windsword said:
If you are losing power momentarily you might want to check for a loose wiring connection somewhere. In the stove or house wiring all the way back to the fuse/breaker panel.
It`s also possible to find a loose connection at the outlet or anywhere in the circuit. Do you notice anything else in the house blinking?
Nothing else in my house blinks, I have went through all the wiring on the inside and double checked all the connections. The only thing I have not checked was the solder connections on the boards, but the maine PCB has been replaced just not the ignitor board. Like I said previously there is someone else witht the same exact stove same exact problem which would drive me to the conclusion of a defective part of some sort.
AMEN, to what pyro said about u s stove support staff being not very good . double super ditto to that.. if i had to buy all over again, u s stove, NOT 
GVA
Minister of Fire
windsword said:
Although it`s possible it`s not highly probable that the new control board is bad too but then again these boards are unique and made for specific stoves so anything is possible.
Troubleshooting is often a process of elimination.
Here are a few more suggestions,
1..check the voltage
2....check the polarity (previously mentioned) of the outlet and make sure it is grounded.
3 check the neutral connections (white conductors) at the panel.
4...if you have a close neighbor you could run a good extension cord from his house to your stove to rule out the possibility of a wiring problem in your house.
I have also seen erratic voltage fluctuations and flickering power interruptions that the power company would rarely ever admit to and acknowledge but you might need a qualified electrican to help you determine that one. You can also call the electric company to ask them to run a check on their end. Often a loose supply overhead conductor connection at the pole or house can cause a similar power interruption. (same applies for underground service)
Even a faulty main breaker or individual circuit breaker can cause momentary power interuptions.
It could be wise to call an electrician to help rule out these things.
I haven't checked the polarity but the house was just rewired but will double check.
The voltage shouldn't be an issue because the UPS stabilizes voltage to avoid damage to electronics, so that's not likely
I have been in my box and all neutrals are connected like they are supposed to be and tight. No sign of arc
eratic operation from voltage drop would effect the whole house not just one item. None of my other electronics are effected.
If it was a momentary loss of voltage or Hiccup from the power grid my UPS would kick in and it doesn't it is monitored by computer and shows no brown or black outs the response time to voltage Flux is 1/1000 of a sec much less than would be noticeable.
Sorry folks not trying to shoot people down just explaing what has been done and why some possibilities don't exist.
Also i do notice it seems to happen more when its been running and hot.
doubt if its the high limit switch because that just shuts down the auger and that is still running
The voltage shouldn't be an issue because the UPS stabilizes voltage to avoid damage to electronics, so that's not likely
I have been in my box and all neutrals are connected like they are supposed to be and tight. No sign of arc
eratic operation from voltage drop would effect the whole house not just one item. None of my other electronics are effected.
If it was a momentary loss of voltage or Hiccup from the power grid my UPS would kick in and it doesn't it is monitored by computer and shows no brown or black outs the response time to voltage Flux is 1/1000 of a sec much less than would be noticeable.
Sorry folks not trying to shoot people down just explaing what has been done and why some possibilities don't exist.
Also i do notice it seems to happen more when its been running and hot.
doubt if its the high limit switch because that just shuts down the auger and that is still running
windsword said:
OK, It seems you have a good handle on the basics and can rule out obvious possibilities and hopefully narrow it to the stove itself. If you can`t get factory assistance the next thing to try is to get a wiring schematic and learn the sequence of operation unless you already know it and begin to isolate and check the components.
I`d probably get stuck myself if it is indeed a bad control board.
Good luck.
swalz
Feeling the Heat
I would eliminate the UPS as the problem first by removing it from the equation, could be a problem with the UPS. Even though it might test good it still could be the problem and may be switching to battery and that is when you get that second of the blowers not working.
does that ups output a full sinewave? lots of ups's dont and motors do not like this. id take the ups out and see if the problem goes away
It emulates a natural sine wave not a square. I took it out of the loop and it still does not correct the issue.
Quick update, I have been in contact with tech support and they cannot figure it out. So they are having an engineer call me back will let you know how it goes.
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