HELP.. Had Chimney FIre

[Pappibri]

I had a chimney fire this winter already, and I had one last winter. I brushed out the chimney prior to burn season a few months ago. I burn my fire pretty hot during the day, but turn the draft down at night so it will burn throughout the night.
I have a Highlander stove with a 6 inch pipe that is fitted into the existing chimney of the house.The chimney has the ceramic liner that has 2 of them inside the main chimney. One for the furnace/Boiler and one for the woodstove. The clean out hole is in the basement and there is no flue between the basement and where the pipe inserts into the chimney. I burn seasoned hardwood.The woodstove pipe has two elbows in between the woodstove and where it inserts into the chimney.

The chimney does not have a flue below where the pipe goes into the wall, nor does it have a cap on top. Any help would be deeply appreciated in is matter.

 

[begreen]

Welcome. Sounds like you would benefit from a warmer flue. I would strongly consider dropping an insulated 6" stainless liner down the chimney and connecting the stove to that.

 

[bholler]

I agree and the fact that there is no liner below the crock means there is probably quite a bit of dilution air being introduced into the smoke stream which will cause allot more creosote buildup. You need a ss insulated liner

 

[Typ0]

Where was the fire?

 

[jatoxico]

Welcome Papp. What kind and how are you seasoning the wood you are using?

 

[Pappibri]

I heard it sizzling and noticed it right where the pipe goes into the chimney. Seems how the chimney is open all the way down to the basement, is that affecting draft you think? Also, is there a limit to the bends in the stovepipe between the woodstove and to where it inserts into the chimney. Thanks again everyone. Come summer I can look at putting a insert down, but for now just trying to get thru the winter.

 

[Pappibri]

I am using oak and maple, but mostly oak and of course no pine. I cut it and stack it till the next year. And am only cutting up wood already dead, no live trees.

 

[bholler]

honestly if you have had multiple fires already i think you need to get a liner in there now not later. The risk of the fire spreading gets worse with every chimney fire

 

[BrotherBart]

And right now seal the opening to the ash clean-out really well to stop cool air from entering it and going up and cooling the stove exhaust.

 

[Grisu]

Yep, liner and a chimney inspection are in order.

Looking at the glass of your stove I would be careful with the assumption that your wood is really dry. Cutting dead trees is no guarantee that the wood is even semi-dried. Especially the trunk can still hold as much water as a live tree. Have you tested its moisture content with a moisture meter? Bring a few pieces in, warm them up to room temp, split them in half and press the pins in the center of the fresh surface. Should read below 20%. Btw. Burning pine is no problem as long as it is dry.

 

[jaz2508]

I have a similar set up but my chimney ends where the stove is on the first floor but I have a hearth opening. It does not go into the basement. I installed a liner down the chimney to the stove. It has a very strong draw and I have very little build up inside of the liner when I clean it. Its not too big of a job to install a liner, but i think its what you need. I burn my stove hot but not excessive and at night i close it down but not to the point that it is so slow where it just smolders. A friend of mine has the same stove as I have but he burns his stove slower. His stove is set up like mine with a liner up the chimney with the stove in front of the hearth opening but he has a set up like yours where his chimney continues to the basement where he has another fireplace that he does not use with a separate stack. Every fall when we clean his liner it is loaded with creosote. Maybe it has something to do with that kind of set up. But a liner would not hurt to try.

 

[Pappibri]

Where the stove pipe goes into the wall there is about 14 ft of chimney that goes all the way down to the basement floor. Should that be wide open? There is a trap door at the bottom of the chimney for removing debree's. I will try to get that sealed as good as possible, and will do the insert in the spring, just trying to figure out what to do now. I will check the moisture content of the wood as well..

 

[bholler]

. Should that be wide open?

No it should have liner running all the way down to a sealed door and there should be no open block cores or anything that could possibly let air into that stack. You really need to have it inspected by a pro and dont be surprised if they find cracked tiles and tell you you need a liner now not later

 

[smithm1979]

I am using oak and maple, but mostly oak and of course no pine.

Just fyi,nothing wrong with pine,creosote comes from bad burning,not the wood species,lots of people in the west only burn pine

 

[Cynnergy]

Pappibri - bholler gives excellent advice. I would definitely get a pro out to have a look after a chimney fire.

 

[CenterTree]

OP: Do you know what size the clay tile liner (you call ceramic) is? The inner measurement?

You do need a stainless steel INSULATED liner, but you will need about 8 inches inside diameter to get one down the clay.

If not, another option will be to bust out (remove) the clay first, then drop in a ss liner.

Sorry, I have no ideas to help you this year though for a quick fix.

Maybe some of this will help temporarily...

 

[Pappibri]

I have some Rutland Creosote remover. I try to use it at least once a month, but apparently it was not helping me. I am going to have to reline the stove it is looking like. I am going to take a picture of the top of the chimney tomorrow and will post a pic of it..

 

[zig]

The Rutlands doesn't remove creosote but drys it out to brush easier. Twice a week for a month and once a week after in a HOT fire and brush it monthly. It wouldn't hurt to do the same thing after you get a liner installed.

 

[Bluerubi]

And right now seal the opening to the ash clean-out really well to stop cool air from entering it and going up and cooling the stove exhaust.

Had awful draft problems in my basement stove till I did just this. Had no appreciation for how much air was getting sucked up the clean-out till I held a piece of paper towel near the slightly open door to look for air movement and the whole thing got sucked out of my hands. The builder never bothered to seal the door in place, so it leaked horribly. Once covered up my low draft problems have never returned.