Help. Looking for small stove for new kitchen addition.

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ecfinn

New Member
Dec 12, 2005
219
Ambler, PA
Hi all,

Used to be a regular here a few years ago when I purchased my Lopi Revere insert. Been burning successfully with it for the last 3 winters and enjoying it very much. We're now looking into putting on a 12x20 kitchen addition (with second story about it) and I'd like to put in a small wood-burning stove that we can use to keep the new kitchen warm in the winter. Obviously due to code we'll have a "main" heatsource installed but since I already have wood and will continue to use it I figured another small free-standing stove might be the way to go here too. I "might" consider a pellet stove here too if I can't find a small wood-burning one we like.

Obviously this is a small area to heat and anything will be too big for just this room. There will be two adjoining rooms that we will also heat with the stove so I don't think we'll roast ourselves out of the kitchen.

So far the smallest I've found is the Jotul F602CB. I'm looking for something with a small footprint (both physically and in terms of the clearances.) What other brands/models should I be looking at when I'm considering a stove for this small space?

Thanks everyone.

Eric

P.S. I'll be posting design pics later when I get them to help with where to put the stove and the best way to install it.
 
The Morso 1400 Squirrel is about as small as the 602, very nice looking as well.

Drawback is that it only takes 12" logs.
 
Hi Eric, good to see you. When you get into very small stoves you run into issues with wood size, constant feeding, etc. What is the smallest wood length that's acceptable? How often are you willing to feed this stove? Are there any budget or aesthetic constraints? The 602 is a good compromise, but there's also the VC Aspen, the Morso 1410 or 2B.
 
Im not a stove connesiour but how about the englander 13??
Im not too sure about the model number but the small 1200 sq ft englander wood stove.

I should recommend against the pellet stove because of the high cost of pellets and the super
PITA of buying pellets in aug ,sept,oct ,nov & dec
Around in jan pellets become more available & in feb(last week of jan to first week of feb) they go on 1/2 price sale for all of 1 or 2 days before they are sold out.usually at HD & lowes.

This year I had a major PITA trying to buy pellets at all and not cheaply either & this lead to me only using the pellet stove for auxizillary heat . I actually bought 1000gal fuel oil instead because it was cheaper than pellets at 1.91/gal. & heat the whole house ,not just 2 rooms like the pellet does.

So while my pellet stove hardly run this winter, my wood stove burn 24/7 & the oil heat when we hit the single digits outside.

At least no one can screw you around with the price & availability of wood.
If the guys that sell firewood don't give me a good deal, I just go to the dump & get a free trailer full unpainted lumber to burn.

Pellets are easy to burn but very costly & frustrating to buy.
wood is easy to either buy or get for free & if you dont have a huskee 22 ton log splitter from www.tractorsupply.com break down & spend the $1150.oo & you will be very glad that you did.

That splitter did my whole winters supply, 6 cords in under 2 weeks working 3 hr a day.

It used to take me every other day may through oct, working 8 hr a day to do the same splitting with a 2 hp electric limb splitter which could not handle a real log except by shaving 2 inch splits off the sides.

The huskee just rams right through the middle of however big the log is in diameter & then I quater it & its done in something under 8 min. for a hugemongious log I can barely move.

Try an electric chain saw if you have problems with your hands tingling from the gas chain saws.

2 years ago I tried my first electric chain saw, I have 4 electrics now & have not used my 6 gas saws in 2 1/2 years. I do all my chain sawing electric now except were I can't get an extension cord to.

Stealth chain saws. I nearly forget that I have a battery opperated chain saw too that goes any where. 3 fully charged 18 volt ni cads batteries give about 45 minutes of cutting but it only has a 12 inch bar.
 
Eric, I started a thread on this very same subject a few weeks ago. We are also goign to be doing removations and adding a much larger kitchen and want to add a small woodstove. My thoughts so far on the subject are 1. The stove must handle 16" lengths cause when I process the wood I dont want to ahve to change etc. 2. It must have close clearances from the walls etc. 3. It must ahve a flat top and side shelves for keeping dishes warm, I want it to be a versitle stove. 4. Top loading is a must, no matter what you do with front loading like my Olympic, at times ash comes out and I feel in the kitchen top loading might be better.
would love to discuss this with you via email. Cant wait to see your plans. we are not that far along yet since out project sounds like it might be larger than your. It consists of removing 1/2 of our house that includes our current kitchen (its all one story here) and then rebuilding from a new basement up two stories and adding an attached 2 car garage with living space above to boot!
BTW just looked at that Jotul small stove you are talking about..That is pretty much what I am looking for except for it not being top laoding but I guess that is at the bottom of the "must have" list anyways.
 
Someone mentioned the Morso 1410, I'd like to also suggest the Morso 2B. The 2B takes 18" logs and is pretty cute, but is slightly bigger than the 1410, although not near as big as those englander stoves that heat the same space. Both Morsos are going to be priced within a few dollars of the Jotul 602CB. I've no experience with any of those stoves other than I looked at them recently and they all seemed to run in the mid to upper $900s around me.
 
thanks for the tip. That 2B standard looks decent and will be considred.. the rest of those stoves are way to weird for me!
 
Hi Eric

Since its for a kitchen area how about a wood cook stove? I was looking at one of these "Bakers Oven" for a cabin I want to build up north. It has a oven it it and looks good too.

http://www.woodstoves.net/bakersoven2.htm

Billy
 
don't you love pictures of these stoves installed on the vendors pages. they always look so nice. They are never installed with proper clearances. That stove, for example ($2300? Gack!) Says 10-14" side clearances. If you read the dimensions the stove is 13.5" wide. It appears to be 2 floor tiles wide. that means that those tiles are something like 7inches. The clearance on the right is about 1/2 of a tile. So it shows a 4 inch clearance at best. I know it's off topic, but, c'mon why don't they be more realistic?

Anyway, all that being said, the clearances of that one you posted compared to the 2B standard is about 1/2, so if one was concerned about overall footprint they'd need to be careful, because the clearances of the 2B aren't that wonderful.
 
Danno

Both stoves in question are European. If your floors are concrete and the walls are ceramic brick faced with plaster, they can be installed right up against the wall if you like. Generally, people will leave just enough clearance to get in and clean up the cobwebs etc. It can be liberating not to live in a tinder box. The mass also absorbs the heat and moderates the "swings" in the interior temperature. Not to mention that you hardly notice that hurricane force winds are blowing outside (I was in Germany in 2000 when they had winds over 200mph that leveled entire forests). I think a couple of clay tiles fell off the house I was in.

On the Bakers Oven, I have seen this stove in person. You have the dimensions wrong. The stove is nearly 2 ft wide (21 1/4x 21 5/8). It is the inside of the oven that is 13" for baking. The Bakers oven has quite a unique combustion air path and relatively speaking the clearances are pretty close, limited by the stovepipe clearance if you have single wall. To get the reduced clearances, fit a stovepipe heat shield.
Specifications
Height 32.48"
Depth 21.26"
Width 21.65"
Weight 264 lbs.
 
Ouch!!! 4400$ plus tax and delivery for the bun baker with the options including soapstone.

How effectively do you suppose the heat can travel from the fire down to the oven?
 
The bakers Oven has a bypass damper system that directs the flue gases down the side of the oven, then underneath it and back out of the flue. Oven temperature is achieved in about 30 minutes from start up. Its is available with the soap stone veneers as well as a stand alone oven. We have been building them in Australia for almost 20 years now and they have been extremely successful.

The bypass system allows flue gases to travel around the oven or directly out the back for start up. Its a simple system, but it works.
 
Do these baker's ovens put much heat into the room? This can be good or bad.
 
Nothing beats a small soapstone stove for a small space IMHO.
 
The bakers Oven is designed to not only cook but also provide heat into the room as well. Generally around 700 sq feet is the sort of area they will do. They have a large cook top and front section that radiates warmth and their surface area does mean they heat. Middle of summer if you are using it, will make you pretty hot, so they are more for use in the winter. They do also have a small water jacket as an option that fits in the back of the firebox to heat domestic hot water. This wet back as we call it can only be fitted to an open vented, low pressure gravity feed HWS.

Our guy in Vermont does fit soap stone around the unit as an option as well. Google Vermont Bun Baker as well as you tube and he has around 40 minutes of video demonstrating cooking and heat etc.
 
I think the jf602 is a sweet little stove but you will be filling it every few hours.
I like the homestead for small areas and it gives a good burn time .
We installed the homestead in a 14x 22 family room with a 14x 22 kitchen divided by a 6 foot opening .
The stove heated the area and did not over heat the rooms .
I have a hearthstone soap stone stove but you could look at a fire view.
John
 
And after all of this research, get ya a little Jotul F100 to keep the kitchen warm. You aren't heating the house, just a small area and it'll get the job done. The small splits are a pain in the ass but for a small area heater it does just fine. And the other stove's job is heating the house at night. Though the residual heat from the kitchen stove will be right in there contributing.

And it has a lot of glass for a small stove so you get a bunch of radiant heat and a nice fire view in the kitchen.
 
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