I am trying to choose the right wood stove to heat my 1600 sq ft double wide. I am currently using a Buck model 18 as a free standing with outside air pedestal that I installed last week and its just not getting the job done(Not even close). There are four stoves that I am looking to replace it with and they are the Buck model 74, Quadrafire 3100, VC Dutchwest Large, and Regency F2400. Will any of these stoves do the job and which do you prefer and why? Any advice is greatly appreciated and also I plan on this being my only source of heat during the season. Thanks alot
Help me choose the best stove So I dont make the same mistake twice.
- Thread starter PARKBOY
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CarbonNeutral
Minister of Fire
Parkboy - welcome to the forum - I know you'll find lots of great advice here. First question - are you sure it's the stove and not the wood - talk us through when your wood was split and stacked.
Also, what is your chimney setup - height, etc.
Also, what is your chimney setup - height, etc.
CarbonNeutral said:
No im not sure its the stove and not the wood but im pretty sure it is. The wood is sycamore that has been split and stacked for about 2 yrs. My chimney is a 6" supervent 6ft connected to 3ft single wall inside. Forgive me If I left out any other information you need I am new to this. Thanks and let me know if there is any other info you need.
The model 18 is a rather small stove - 1.3 cu. ft. firebox. Even so, it should provide substantial heat. But if you really want a stove to be your sole heat source you probably do want something more in the 2 to 2 1/2 cu. ft. size range. Shoot, probably 3 cu. ft. would not be
If you are new to this then you do need to work through the questions you are going to get. My first comment is to the quality of the wood. Sycamore should be dry if it has been split and stacked two years, but the btu value is not that great. With such a small firebox you may simply be unable to load enough at a time to get the stove as hot as you would want.
Which leads to the next question: Do you have a stove top thermometer? If so, what kind of temperatures are you getting?
Finally, someone recently pointed out on these forums that there is little point in trying to purchase a more efficient way to heat the outdoors. Have you really looked into the various places you are losing heat - doors, windows, gaps in seams, sloppy dryer vents, etc., etc.? Cans of spray foam and tubes of caulk are really, really inexpensive. And is your insulation up to snuff? Is your doublewide on a foundation or is it up on blocks? Either way, are the floors insulated as well as they need to be?
If you are new to this then you do need to work through the questions you are going to get. My first comment is to the quality of the wood. Sycamore should be dry if it has been split and stacked two years, but the btu value is not that great. With such a small firebox you may simply be unable to load enough at a time to get the stove as hot as you would want.
Which leads to the next question: Do you have a stove top thermometer? If so, what kind of temperatures are you getting?
Finally, someone recently pointed out on these forums that there is little point in trying to purchase a more efficient way to heat the outdoors. Have you really looked into the various places you are losing heat - doors, windows, gaps in seams, sloppy dryer vents, etc., etc.? Cans of spray foam and tubes of caulk are really, really inexpensive. And is your insulation up to snuff? Is your doublewide on a foundation or is it up on blocks? Either way, are the floors insulated as well as they need to be?
PapaDave
Minister of Fire
Did I read correctly that your total stack height is 9'? That's WAY too short. How is your draft?
That does seem like a small stove for the home size. Can you give more detail about how the stove is "just not getting the job done"?
Pics of your setup may help, and we like pics anyway.
That does seem like a small stove for the home size. Can you give more detail about how the stove is "just not getting the job done"?
Pics of your setup may help, and we like pics anyway.
jotul8e2 said:
Thanks for the reply. No i do not have a stove top thermometer. My house is on a permanent foundation and this fall was gone through and insulated underneath and insulation blown into ceiling. I was told the windows were fine and didnt need to be replaced.
Agreed that you need more flue on the stove. I am not understanding how there can be only 3 ft of pipe on the interior. Something doesn't quite add up here.
The Buck 74 would be a much better fit for this place.
The Buck 74 would be a much better fit for this place.
BeGreen said:
To late to get pics now but will in the morning. The double wall pipe extends 18" below the ceiling and then there is 3 ft of single that connect to that and the stove. so a total of 4ft 6in inside.
realstihl
Minister of Fire
Hogwildz
Minister of Fire
4' inside. Either you have that stove several feet off the floor, or your ceiling is wayyyy low.
realstihl said:
Yes im sure thats right. The celing is short on the edges where the stove is and there is only 7" between the ceiling and roof there also.
Technically it could be a few inches too low. I think 84" ceiling height is the minimum. It is for the Buck 74.
HotCoals
Minister of Fire
If you can score some eco-bricks or something similar give them a try just to see what heat you get compared to the wood you're burning.
Gonna be tough to heat any mobile home that large with a wood stove. Yes, your stack is TOO SHORT.. Add some chimney no matter what you do.. I really like that buck 74 (it used to be the 51) its a great heater and puts out well.. Bucks are tough to get used to as the slide that controls the draft is very touchy to say the least. You have a blower on the current one right? If not get one first, it makes a HUGE difference especially on a buck. With the buck you can probably use your same OAK also.. Give the 18 a chance with a longer stack, unless your on a crunch to be able to return and swap up at the dealership in that case jump ship.
Jason
Jason
jtb51b said:
Not in a crunch. So do I need to add more double wall pipe outside or slide my double wall up and add more single wall, and how does this keep the stove from working properly? Yes I have a blower on this one. What happens if I run the 18 wide open 24/7 do you think it would help it heat better? Thanks for your help.
HotCoals
Minister of Fire
Backwoods Savage
Minister of Fire
For sure I'd make certain that the problem is not all in the fuel and/or the chimney before shopping for a new stove. We get many folks on this forum that have never burned really good dry wood and they are all amazed at the difference in the amount of heat given with good wood. Also, I agree that is not much chimney and you should gain by adding at least 4' onto it.
Backwoods Savage said:
So do I need to add more double wall pipe on the roof ? Also could you explain to me how a longer pipe will help my stove? Curious as to how this works.
Backwoods Savage
Minister of Fire
I'd add insulated pipe on the roof rather than just double wall. Yes, it is much more expensive but worth it. You may have to use some bracing but that is minimal.
Generally speaking, the taller the chimney, the better the draft. Have you ever wondered when passing some of these old power plants and see their 300' chimneys? Of course they have to be big to take out all the junk but they are also tall to get the draft.
Have you heard about the general rules about how tall the chimney should be? How much taller than the peak of the roof? (3') and also taller than anything within 10'? I can give you some good links if you need them.
Generally speaking, the taller the chimney, the better the draft. Have you ever wondered when passing some of these old power plants and see their 300' chimneys? Of course they have to be big to take out all the junk but they are also tall to get the draft.
Have you heard about the general rules about how tall the chimney should be? How much taller than the peak of the roof? (3') and also taller than anything within 10'? I can give you some good links if you need them.
PapaDave
Minister of Fire
"What happens if I run the 18 wide open 24/7 do you think it would help it heat better? Thanks for your help. "
You'll either overfire the stove, or most of your heat will end up outside, or both. Bad burning practice.
Get the stove and flue up to temp, then start cutting back the air until your burn stabilizes. Leave it alone until the temps start dropping, then open the air some. Best way to maximize heat output INTO the house.
Once you get that figured, you can adjust the basic procedure for different outside conditions.
Did you calculate your TOTAL stack height yet? That would include the pipe inside from the stove top, all the way to the cap.
You'll either overfire the stove, or most of your heat will end up outside, or both. Bad burning practice.
Get the stove and flue up to temp, then start cutting back the air until your burn stabilizes. Leave it alone until the temps start dropping, then open the air some. Best way to maximize heat output INTO the house.
Once you get that figured, you can adjust the basic procedure for different outside conditions.
Did you calculate your TOTAL stack height yet? That would include the pipe inside from the stove top, all the way to the cap.
PARKBOY said:
The additional pipe will improve draft. That will bring more oxygen into the stove for more complete combustion. EPA stoves often need a bit stronger draft, particularly to pull air through the secondary burn manifold. You should not run the stove with the air wide open. That will waste wood and can actually cool down the stove, but overheat the flue.
gyrfalcon
Minister of Fire
jotul8e2 said:
Bingo. I've had to become a minor expert in getting the best heat out of a tiny stove, and a small firebox stuffed with low-BTU wood isn't going to give much heat under any circumstances.
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