Help me do the right thing and be a good neighbor

Hi,

I've borrowed my neighbor's splitter the last two seasons.

A couple nights ago, I had used it for about an hour and took a break. when I came back after my break I started it and it blew A LOT of smoke. I shut it down and checked the oil which was kind of frothy, watery and over filled.

I had a guy over who runs a small engine repair shop out of his garage. He found that something in the carb was stuck and had been leaking gas into the cylinder and leaking into the crank case. He rebuilt the carb for me, put a new plug in it, and changed the oil.

He told me he fixed what caused the problem but was afraid that with that gas in the oil, the damage was probably already done. His advice, run it 5 hours, change the oil to make sure all the gas was out of the crank case and keep running it. He advised that nowadays, most engine are just replaced as opposed to rebuilt. He said it could last another 5 minutes or another 5 years.

Well, I talked it over with my neighbor and he was pretty laid back about it. He said to keep using it.

The engine has plenty of power, but I can hear it tapping. It occasionally blows smoke, but the oil is normal looking now.

In good conscience, I don't think I can return the splitter to my neighbor as is, but here's the problem. The unit is a Yard Machine by MTD with a Briggs engine on it. The local briggs dealer says that MTD modiifes the crank on this engine to make replacement difficult. I'll need to buy a brand new engine, about $390, buy the MTD crank $100 and then pay to have the brand new engine totally taken apart to have the new crank installed and 2-2.5 hours labor. I can tell he thinks it's not worth it. I asked about rebuilding it and he said, "I'm afraid we'll take it apart for you and find it's not rebuildable, then you will have a pile of parts, a bill from us, and still need to buy a new engine".

He did say I could take the engine off, and bring the whole unit over for him to look at, he said he might be able to find something that could match up, if he could measure the crank etc. This sounds like a long shot.

Anyone deal with a similar situation? The engine is a 6.0 Quantum XE number 122K02-0412-E1. The splitter is a MTD model number 24AF550C729 427385.

I called MTD and they don't have the engine either.

Any other advice?

Finish splitting for the season. Take engine off, go measure crank at dealer - make sure he doesn't want to charge you for measuring. If not an easy swap you can adapt a new engine, but you may have to buy a new pump or other associated bracketry to make it work. Hey, if it still runs, I'd tell the neighbor you'll replace it if it poops in a year. At least you're being honest.

I am sure there is a way to make a new/different engine work on that splitter, I mean most of those splitters just have an engine with a love joy connected to the pump. Personally if it was mine I would find a way to make a harbor freight HONDA knockoff clone fit on the splitter and you would only be out about $120. However with the fact that it is your neighbors splitter I can understand how you would want to put it back to the original condition. If I was a guessing person the engine that is on the splitter isn't worth rebuilding and I don' think I would put much time or effort into going that route.

If I could get a new engine to go on it that would be ideal. I don't think he much cares if it is a Briggs or not. As for rebuilding it myself, I could probably do that if it was just the piston\rings and connecting rod, and if it were mine, I would probably do just that. I still may if it is the only option.

I appreciate the suggestions, let me know if you think of anything else.

This guy was able to swap out the engine on his MTD so it is possible:

I would run it until it blows up. Then split the cost of a 22 ton Huskee with the guy. 500 a piece and away you go. Good money to fix a modest tool is not for me.

Speed is just a question of money. How fast you wanna go?

Movie line that is not really on the spot, but addresses the fact that anything can be done, but at a cost.

What viscosity oil is in it? If it's 10W30 or 30Wt then I'd switch out to a 15W40 or a synthetic 15W50 (synth will be best for cold weather). I wouldn't be above trying some "snake oil" remedies like Lucas Oil Stabilizer or the like eitehr. If that quiets the tapping, run it till it grenades. When and if that day comes, I'd order the necessary parts so long as the block is intact and re-build it or if the damage is too much (block is compromised), re-power and deal with any crankshaft fit issues, even if that means replacing the engine, adapters, and pump together. Good opportunity to step up the pump GPM and make it that much better of a machine. Rebuilding these little 1 lungers is no big deal if no machine work is involved. Nothing wrong with tearing into a brand-new engine either.

As far as it being your neighbors machine, I feel for 'ya and would feel obligated to do something as well. But the facts are it's a machine, they fail, never on convenient terms. Your neighbor assumes just as much risk as you do when he loaned the machine out and obviously he understands that. Since you do use the machine a fair amount, perhaps it's time to go shopping for one of your own.

I think the odd size crank measurement the guy is referring to is internal. I'm bettin you could bolt the Honda clone on in less than an hour. If you're not sure, pull the love joy coupler off & measure the crank. I'll bet it's a standard size. That being said, I'd take MM's advice & throw 15w40 oil in it & run it till it hatches parts. I've also had very good luck with the Lucas oil products. I run them in my vehicles & small equipment. If you want to really cover your bases, go buy an engine that fits & leave it on the shelf till you need it. A C

Finish splitting wood with it. Then tear down the motor. The tapping is probably just the connecting rod. You have to remember, most of the Briggs aluminium flatheads have an aluminium alloy conrod with a preformed babbit bearing. Both of these metals are going to be softer than the crankshaft, and as such, get destroyed before the crank. I would pull it apart and see.

Briggs motors are fun to play with.

Try a heavier oil or add some Lucas. There has to be a way to change motors Like has been said, it should be just a coupler size that is different. Tractor supply should have a coupler combination that would work.

They also have Huskee splitters!! No assembly necessary.

My money is on the length being different.

Yes; you're correct, it's the external configuration that is different apparently.

If you did wind up buying a new engine, a machine shop should be able to "adjust" the length on the crank for a minimal fee. Prob less than $100 for a new crank.

I put another 5 hours on the splitter since the incident and changed the oil which looked normal. The engine still has plenty of power, and it only blows smoke when I first start it. My guess is that the rings aren't quite right but once the engine heats up a bit, the tolerances close up enough to stop the oil getting past the rings.

My gut says that if he keeps an eye on the oil consumption, that the engine will run a few more years. I'm thinking I will take it back to him and give him 3-$400 bucks and tell him he can use it towards a new engine\pump combo if it ever goes. I'll tell him if it goes on him, I can help him do the job.

"hatches parts" ! LOL!!
I've been around machines my whole life and this is the first time I've heard that one.
Thanks for making me pee my pants.
Hatches parts...sniff, hee hee, snifff hee hee.

Yep, that's a technical term around here, kinda like "high tech redneck". Glad ya got a grin. A C