Help me engineer my install

[jeepnerd]

I'm looking to put a stove in my woodshop. I have an idea what I need to do, but not sure what the parts I need are called. It's a pole barn. I'm familiar with all the clearance concerns. I plan on putting the stove as close to the center of the room as I can and going straight up with the pipe. I have to penetrate the ceiling and the roof[/URL[URL=http://s285.photobucket.com/user/Dsheats/media/woodshop%20wood%20stove/IMG_20160212_175839265_HDR.jpg.html][/URL[URL=http://s285.photobucket.com/user/Dsheats/media/woodshop%20wood%20stove/IMG_20160212_175738779_HDR.jpg.html][/URL[URL=http://s285.photobucket.com/user/Dsheats/media/woodshop%20wood%20stove/IMG_20160212_175749127_HDR.jpg.html][/URL][/URL][/URL]

 

[BamaRama]

Not sure what we're looking at here. Looks like two pics of a basement, one of the inside of a shed, and another of an attic. I'm not expert my no means as I have installed one system. The parts you need are going to depend on the stove you buy and where you put it. So if you have a stove picked out go ahead and post it so the experts can help or so you can download and read the install instructions. For the portion above the ceiling you'll need a chimney pipe and a chimney kit suitable for your installation and the flashing. I used Selkirk stuff from Lowes. But if you use Lowes and have to order your parts, use part numbers from Selkirk webpage to search Lowes. They have the wrong description on a lot of parts but the part number is correct. Just follow all directions to a tee and you should be okay.

Then for the part you can see from inside the room, you'll just need stove pipe (sometimes called connector pipe) and probably an adapter at the stove outlet unless you get lucky and can connect directly to the stove. It looks like the stove will be on concrete so all you need to worry about are the side, front, and back clearances. If it's going in the middle of the room and you have plenty of clearance, the single wall stove pipe will probably be the better (cheaper) option.

HTH

 

[pilotmattk]

I'd advise against a woodstove in a wood shop. Yes you can get super safe stoves with external air intake however... Sawdust. When dry, it goes up like gunpowder.

Outdoor wood boiler is the only woodshop safe wood heat appliance.

 

[jeepnerd]

I call it a woodshop, but its more of workshop, kids painting etc. I should be more specific about the structure itself. It's a truss pole barn with attic space, so I'll have to pass through a plywood ceiling through the attic and between the 2' on center trusses[/URL[URL=http://s285.photobucket.com/user/Dsheats/media/woodshop%20wood%20stove/IMG_20160214_084916846.jpg.html][/URL]

 

[BamaRama]

You'll need to find the sweet spot where the rafters and the ceiling joists will accommodate the clearance you need. Also take into consideration the accessibility from roof level for cleaning/maintenance. That gambrel roof looks daunting.

 

[xman23]

I assume it has no interior walls. The stove takes up a lot of floor space and working area. So why not keep it off to a side or end wall. There not much of a temperature difference from one end to the other.

 

[Anradhn39]

My thoughts are, use a side wall venting kit, to a vertical flue on the exterior of the building. This will prevent roof leaks due to penetrations, allows for an easier clean-out at the "T", if you ever replace your roof with metal you wont need to flash around the chimney.

I would also locate the stove placement inside nearer to an entry door, off to one side and if you insulate the rafters down the road you'll have no issues with comfort or just make sure you have limited convection escaping to the attic through the upstairs.

Choose a larger stove with a long burn and good emissions characteristics.

I wouldn't put the stove in the back corner away from the doors, as you'll always be cooler near the doors and sweating if you're in the back corner working near the stove. Plus having the stove closer to an entry keeps the room cleaner and wood hauling is shorter distance per trip.

 

[begreen]

FWIW I have a close friend with a Lopi wood stove in his wood working shop. He has a full, ducted, sawdust collection system so dust is not an issue. The shop is quite dust free. He went straight up with the stovepipe and chimney. That would be my preference too. It drafts very well, costs less to install, flue stays quite clean though it's easy to clean with no elbows.

 

[RandyBoBandy]

This may sound a little outlandish but you could always build a ladder and hatch in the attic to access the roof for chimney sweeping purposes. Going straight up is going to be a lot cheaper than 25' of exterior pipe.

 

[Anradhn39]

But to go straight up you'll have issues with the 10-2 rule, unless the stove is in the middle of the room.
If you go straight up on the inside, perimeter you have poor access to the cap, to clean it. In addition you'll still need double wall pipe inside, going straight up for clearance to combustibles.

Side wall venting with a T you don't need to go onto the roof, you can sweep from below, outside with a sectional extension pole. It's also safer if you neglect cleaning and have a fire, if the flue is on the exterior of the building.

I wouldn't attempt to put single wall through the attic space even with a jack in the ceiling and roof. Someone will store something against it in the summer and forget , then come winter you end up with a fire in the attic and without drywall, the exposed rafters will go up in a hurry.

In regards to cleaning and the elbow, you can use single wall 24 GA from collar to a wall thimble with an appropriate flange to maintain 18" which will allow you to get the additional BTU's from the exposed pipe. Also , when your single wall needs replacing , you can change out your flue with an elbow easier than changing a straight section.

 

[Anradhn39]

10-2 rule images for roof penetrations. Not standard or used in all jurisdiction, you must do your own research on that.
You can use galvanized exterior pipe with stainless inner flue that is good to 1" clearances, its cheaper than stainless doublewall.
You can remove the window ,(it may be too close to your entry door) if so use other window.
THIS IS JUST ONE IDEA, YOU MUST CALCULATE ALL OF THE EFFECTS WITH PROPER REFERENCE MATERIAL AND PRODUCT SPEC SHEETS.

 

[begreen]

With the steep lower slope of the gambrel roof the 10-3-2 rule will be an issue with an external chimney too. I was thinking of the stove being more central for more even heating. That's the way my buddy's shop is. Yes, the flue would have to change to chimney pipe as soon as it penetrates the ceiling. That is expected. The chimney should be chased in the upper loft.

 

[Anradhn39]

I agree, end wall or central in the room straight up are the only real options, but center of room you lose about than 8' x 8' square to clear combustibles, if you put it against a wall with a non combustible wall, maybe masonry or something that absorbs and stores the heat...Plus I see kids toys there in the yard, Center of room is the worst set up if you have small kids running around.

 

[begreen]

More like 6' x 6' in center of room and 6' x 4' if on the side. I am assuming that this is a shop, not a playground. There are too many other hazards there for kids to play with.

 

[Anradhn39]

Well it depends on the stove dimensions to figure it exactly but I'm estimating and shooting large. It's simply my opinion , how I'd do it...here from my keyboard

 

[begreen]

All depends on the stove. Some are jacketed for side shielding most Lopi or PE stoves. That reduces clearances a lot. An old smoke dragon OTOH would have 36" clearance requirements in all directions.

 

[jeepnerd]

Wow, lots of good advice. I'm planning on setting the stove to side, then going straight up set a little to the rear of the ridge. It'll only get used for cold winter days to do projects with the kids. I'm not looking for long burn times so I won't have to worry about it when we're done. That being said I don't want to take any short cuts.
What I really need to know is what parts to use to make the penitrations. One for the plywood ceiling, and one for the roof. As far as the pipe for the attic space, what pipe should I use there? My thought was to build a cage around the pipe made of metal studs and some kind of wire so I can make sure no critters are getting in there and making nests. I'm thinking basic stove pipe will work in the shop portion.

 

[bholler]

You can use galvanized exterior pipe with stainless inner flue that is good to 1" clearances, its cheaper than stainless doublewall.

What pipe is that? Going out the wall costs quite a bit more the tee costs allot and you are going to have a little more chimney doing it that way. Straight up is easier and cheaper and generally pretty easy to clean from the ground to.

 

[begreen]

You can get DuraTech in galvanized. I would used that for the loft section and then switch to stainless for the exterior chimney.

 

[bholler]

You can get DuraTech in galvanized.

Yes but does it have 1" clearance to combustibles?

 

[begreen]

No, it's 2" whether galvanized or stainless. That's established by the ceiling support box and carried all the way up to the hole for the flashing.

 

[bholler]

that was the part i was questioning

 

[begreen]

Rightly so. I missed that.

 

[BamaRama]

What I really need to know is what parts to use to make the penitrations.

To install chimney, take a look at Supervent documents to familiarize yourself with the terminology. You're going to find that detailed information is obscure. Other sources for the parts are available, just furnishing the link for reference.

To install the chimney through the roof, I think you need a ceiling support kit and a flashing. Depending on outside height (>5') you could need roof guys.

Your idea about the metal/wire might work but it's advisable to keep the insurance/inspection aspect of it in mind. Personally I would build it to withstand any scrutiny that may occur. In the chimney world there are occupied spaces and unoccupied spaces. I believe what you have is something in between. To chase the chimney in the attic you'll need a firestop radiation shield and a rafter radiation shield if you're going to consider the attic an occupied space.

Maybe some of the more seasoned members can lead you in the right direction.

 

[xman23]

Wow, lots of good advice. I'm planning on setting the stove to side, then going straight up set a little to the rear of the ridge. It'll only get used for cold winter days to do projects with the kids. I'm not looking for long burn times so I won't have to worry about it when we're done. That being said I don't want to take any short cuts.
What I really need to know is what parts to use to make the penitrations. One for the plywood ceiling, and one for the roof. As far as the pipe for the attic space, what pipe should I use there? My thought was to build a cage around the pipe made of metal studs and some kind of wire so I can make sure no critters are getting in there and making nests. I'm thinking basic stove pipe will work in the shop portion.

I think your saying, you want to run single wall through the first floor ceiling into the attic. Then what? You can use single wall out of the stove, as long as you maintain 18" (I think) clearance. But when you get to the ceiling, are you cutting out a 36" x 36" hole? You can, but I would put in a ceiling box that supports and transitions to double wall chimney. Double wall the rest of the way thru the attic and out the roof flange. All those are standard parts. So they fit, make sure all the parts from one manufacture.