Help planning stove pipe layout (using "through the wall kit")

[Diddle]

So we have a new wood stove/furnace, and the ONLY way of working the chimney is out and up. It would be three feet in the middle of the master bedroom to go straight up. So the chimney is what I am confused about. First, if I use a wall proctor heat shield, do I go through it with the wall kit thimble? If so, what material are they usually? And maybe this seems dumb, but if the stove pipe must be 18 inches from the wall (yes it is combustible), how do you run it over to the adapter that attaches to the chimney pipe? I understand that the chimney pipe has to run through the thimble in teh wall, not the stove pipe, but how far should the chimney run into the room?

 

[Backwoods Savage]

How far is dependent upon the manufacturers recommendations and this should be in your manual.

On the horizontal run, but sure you have at least 1/4" rise per foot of horizontal. Better to go 1/2" though as it will help your draft.

 

[Diddle]

Yes we have a rise in the part through the wall, the thimble was pre-fabbed for that!

I am still confused on how to handle going through the wall, with the heat shield. We were planning on using the pre-fabbed one from ACE hardware, and would I put the thimble directly above it? Or do I have to go through it?

 

[begreen]

Usually the wall shield goes up about 6" over the flue collar on the stove unless the wall needs shielding from the stove pipe as well. We need some more details to answer the question. Is the wall shield a requirement for clearance reduction or is this being done for greater safety and peace of mind? What are you using for the thimble and chimney piping? What stove is this and will the connector pipe be single or double-wall stove pipe?

https://www.hearth.com/econtent/index.php/articles/passing_a_chimney

 

[Diddle]

Stove is a Summer's Heat 3000sq feet Wood Furnace (from Lowes). Clearance from back of stove is 13 inches, but we are using the heat shield because the way that the stove is positioned, the stove pipe will be 15 inches from the wall. It also allows us to move the stove back one inch to where it is 12 inches from the wall. We considered using the double stove pipe to reduce clearance, but we think it would be better to get the heat from the single wall stove pipe in the room. We bought "Supervent" chimney supplies from Lowes, including the thimble and double wall chimney pipes.

I attached two professional (haha) sketches of the proposed set up. The only thing in place at this moment is the actual stove, everything else is still in boxes. One picture is of how we place to run the chimney up the back of house. Please let me know if you experienced helpers approve?

 

[begreen]

Personally I'd use double wall stove pipe. The furnace is the heater, not the pipe. You want the flue gases to stay hot enough to not condense as creosote. This is important, especially if the furnace is going to be idling part of the time and the chimney is exterior. However, if you do use the wall protection to reduce clearances then yes it needs to be shielded all the way up with a proper shield on 1" spacers. This can be done with a sheet of 24 ga sheet metal. It needs to be open top and bottom.

Will the pipe have at least 18" clearance from the ceiling?

 

[Diddle]

With the double stove pipe, I understand the clearance is 6", so if we stayed with the 13" clearance for the stove, we wouldn't need the heat shield at all right? I had a hard time finding the double stove pipe on Lowe's website, but I don't think it has to be the same brand since it uses an adaptor to connect to the chimney? Also, what is the shortest recommended stove pipe to use from the stove to the angle? I don't know how that effects the gases...

And the thimble could do through the wall, and provide all the clearance needed for that?

And yes, there is plenty of space above the stove pipe and ceiling (thank goodness, this is confusing enough!).

 

[begreen]

Correct, you would not be dealing with clearance issues as long as the furnace is at or above it's minimum required clearances. Yes, one should stick to one brand of connector and chimney if using double wall connector. As for the shortest exiting connector? I'm not sure about how this unit drafts. I would contact Englander's top support person here - Mike Holton with a conversation - stoveguy2esw and ask him.

 

[Diddle]

You are awesome...thanks!

 

[Warm_in_NH]

Not sure how big your roof soffit is. But IF you want avoid cutting into it you can lengthen the pipe a few inches on the angled part of the rise to the point where you'll have your 2" of clearance when you go past the roof eve.

 

[Diddle]

Ah! New issue - the wall thimble doesn't meet. It's a thick wall obviously. There is brick on the outside, then cinder-block, then plywood, then sheet-rock...

So what do I do with the 2 inches left between the two pieces?

 

[Diddle]

Not sure how big your roof soffit is. But IF you want avoid cutting into it you can lengthen the pipe a few inches on the angled part of the rise to the point where you'll have your 2" of clearance when you go past the roof eve.

- Yes I think this is what we have decided to do. We have to use an offset to go out for that weird part of the house, so we are just going to use a longer piece between the angles to get further from the house. No need to cut the brand new tin roof!