Hi I did have the thermodisc check with a mult meter and a heat gun and the it cut in and out best kind, and I did jump a wire from one wire to the other and the blower cut in. I say like u said it was a mistake when they put it there that's why they changed is. What is the site u read this
help with a new drolet heat max.
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I did buy the furnace my self last winter and just put it in 3 months ago and installed it my self there is not on the top center. What site can I see the new drolet. I will sent a closer picture
brenndatomu
Minister of Fire
OK cool, so it sounds as though you did not try running the furnace with the blower switch jumped out for a while?
I can see yours is different because you don't have the sheet metal conduit running from between the duct adapters back to the control box like the one my sister just bought. Model # DF02000 (it is sitting in my garage until I have time to put it in for them) If you look up the manual online you can see what I mean on the parts breakdown illustration. Part #79 through 84, kind of in the middle of the drawing, just left of center. That's where the switches are on this one.
There is a VERY long thread over on arboristsite called "Introducing Brand New Wood Furnace to Market - the Drolet Tundra!" It was started by an SBI rep back when the Tundra first came out. Unfortunately he doesn't work for SBI anymore and they do not have a rep that posts on AS now.
I can see yours is different because you don't have the sheet metal conduit running from between the duct adapters back to the control box like the one my sister just bought. Model # DF02000 (it is sitting in my garage until I have time to put it in for them) If you look up the manual online you can see what I mean on the parts breakdown illustration. Part #79 through 84, kind of in the middle of the drawing, just left of center. That's where the switches are on this one.
There is a VERY long thread over on arboristsite called "Introducing Brand New Wood Furnace to Market - the Drolet Tundra!" It was started by an SBI rep back when the Tundra first came out. Unfortunately he doesn't work for SBI anymore and they do not have a rep that posts on AS now.
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brenndatomu
Minister of Fire
It is still in the crate under plastic, I just peeked in a lil hole...you can see what I'm talking about on the owners manual cover drawing and in parts drawing
DoubleB
Minister of Fire
You can see the shiny steel casing on top of the furnace, the snap discs for blower and damper cutout are enclosed in the top center.
brenndatomu
Minister of Fire
bedrock you must have gotten new old stock. Sissies manual was printed back in May, it shows the new setup. I checked SBI website, it shows both models DF01000 and DF02000 (Heatmax VS Tundra) both the same way. What is your manufacture date? Hers is 6/27/2014
i like to see how they got it done now in the inside if there is a sheild or any thing around it
DoubleB
Minister of Fire
Furnace is running now for the night and I don't want to mess with it while 110Volts is there, I'll try to get a picture tomorrow. It basically looks like your does in post #53, except under the shiny casing in post #57.
oh ok if u can i like to see a picture to see if they just have a hole and strew down. how long u had your furnace, does the blower run long with the damper close off. is it hard on wood.
DoubleB
Minister of Fire
Snap disc that controls my blower is shown in this picture. It has a flat surface that contacts the top of the furnace; no holes except two screw holes. You can see the outline of the snap disc in the dust on top of my furnace.
I notice in your post #53 that your wires aren't the right colors, either, (red and white) further suggesting that your furnace is not quite consistent with what SBI mass-produced according to the manual. Hopefully, in your discussions with SBI, they are aware of whatever configuration you have, so that you and they are solving the same problem.
I notice in your post #53 that your wires aren't the right colors, either, (red and white) further suggesting that your furnace is not quite consistent with what SBI mass-produced according to the manual. Hopefully, in your discussions with SBI, they are aware of whatever configuration you have, so that you and they are solving the same problem.
DoubleB
Minister of Fire
You're welcome.
I forgot to answer some of your questions: I've had my furnace since August, and have been burning since Nov 1 2014. I've gone through 4+ full cords of low-density wood, and I probably could have been doing better for a while if I had better understood how to run the furnace. It took me some experimenting to get better at it.
My blower usually stays on the whole time even with the damper closed during secondary combustion. For example, if I load the furnace completely full, the secondaries will burn for 2+ hours, and the blower runs constant that whole time. Once its down to coals, the blower starts to cycle on and off.
I forgot to answer some of your questions: I've had my furnace since August, and have been burning since Nov 1 2014. I've gone through 4+ full cords of low-density wood, and I probably could have been doing better for a while if I had better understood how to run the furnace. It took me some experimenting to get better at it.
My blower usually stays on the whole time even with the damper closed during secondary combustion. For example, if I load the furnace completely full, the secondaries will burn for 2+ hours, and the blower runs constant that whole time. Once its down to coals, the blower starts to cycle on and off.
brenndatomu
Minister of Fire
DoubleB
Minister of Fire
They were already there, I didn't have to drill or assemble anything, what you see in post #65 is just me disassembling what I had purchased assembled by SBI.
brenndatomu
Minister of Fire
Oh, yeah, sorry. I'm getting you confused with somebody else that added the cold air return kit. The kit comes with parts to move the switch to the top like they are now.
DoubleB
Minister of Fire
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