Right now I have 3 usable saws. A Husky 372xp, 365, and a 41. The old 41 is my most used saw and still runs and idles great. I feel like I have my large saw needs taken care of but the 41 is older and I'm getting the itch for a newer saw or two. Should I go with a smaller light weight 30cc range saw like a Husky 439 or Echo 310? And then to fill the gap something like a 346xp or 445 Husky? Or, be content with what I've got? Like I said, I've got the itch but would have to divert funds from other wants.
Help with chainsaw selection.
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Shmudda
Burning Hunk
Not going to say one way or another, but will answer your question with a question:
What do you NEED?? Are you physically fit enough to keep using the big saws vs the smaller saws? If the answer is yes, then keep using the saws you have and spend the funds on something that you truly "need", vs want.
Myself, I mostly use a Shindiawa 488 and a Stihl 026 Pro, both 48cc saws which are the smallest I will go for the type and volume of wood I cut. To me, a 30cc saw would be nothing but a toy in my hands......
Craig
What do you NEED?? Are you physically fit enough to keep using the big saws vs the smaller saws? If the answer is yes, then keep using the saws you have and spend the funds on something that you truly "need", vs want.
Myself, I mostly use a Shindiawa 488 and a Stihl 026 Pro, both 48cc saws which are the smallest I will go for the type and volume of wood I cut. To me, a 30cc saw would be nothing but a toy in my hands......
Craig
I run a stihl 026r with a 16" bar and it does pretty much everything i need.
Jon1270
Minister of Fire
What do you most wish was different about the 41, when you're using it? Would you prefer its replacement be lighter, or more powerful?
If the weight doesn't bother you then consider a 545 or 550xp, which would be only a little heavier than the 41 but would absolutely stomp it in terms of speed and power.
If the weight doesn't bother you then consider a 545 or 550xp, which would be only a little heavier than the 41 but would absolutely stomp it in terms of speed and power.
JRHAWK9
Minister of Fire
Buy the 346XP first, you might not want a smaller saw. They are peppy for the size and light weight. Also, the 365 and 372 are too close to each other in size. have you considered selling the 365 to support buying another saw like the 246? That would be what I would do.
Marshy, I acquired the 365 this spring for a really good deal. The 372 was a craigslist find that I just couldn't pass up. I have considered selling or trading the 365 but figure it would be a good loaner saw.
Jon1270, at times I wish the 41 were lighter. Like when I'm sawing up smaller branches. I am constantly sitting it down and picking it back up. Most of my wood is scrounged so I'm not the original cutter so it's various lengths. I will use my splitter as a vise to hold the wood while I cut it. This is easiest for me as it allows me to keep both hands on the saw. Then there are times I wish it had a little more grunt. Thats why I'm thinking 2 saws to replace the 41.
Jon1270, at times I wish the 41 were lighter. Like when I'm sawing up smaller branches. I am constantly sitting it down and picking it back up. Most of my wood is scrounged so I'm not the original cutter so it's various lengths. I will use my splitter as a vise to hold the wood while I cut it. This is easiest for me as it allows me to keep both hands on the saw. Then there are times I wish it had a little more grunt. Thats why I'm thinking 2 saws to replace the 41.
Chainsaws are my hobby, that and older Chevy trucks, I don't think I could sell a like saw to buy another saw. I'd wait it out until I could afford it. That being said. I think the 346 would give you what you need in power and weight without going smaller. As nice as it is to have a loner saw, I'd never loan someone a 365 or a 372. I'd loan them the 41 first lol.
Jon1270
Minister of Fire
This is where I suggest the impractical solution of finding a rear-handle MS200. It's a little less powerful than the 41, but faster-revving and almost 2 pounds lighter! It's a delight to use on smaller stuff. Sadly, it's also rare and expensive. By some accident I've bought three of them locally over the last few years, and sold two. One went to a collector in upstate NY, and the other to a landscaper in New Zealand.
More realistically, you could look for a rear-handle MS201, MS192, MS193, or 339XP.
To put a different twist and food for thought......
To the OP is your 365 a newer xtorq or the older model ? The older ones are 65cc, a little smaller and lighter than the 70cc 372 so if that's the case and 65cc is enough power for your " big" saw I'd suggest selling the 372 instead it will bring more money used than a 65cc 365.
If it's an xtorq 365 then it's 70cc and identical to the 372 in weight and size and I'd suggest selling the 365 it produces 1/2 hp less and is just as heavy as your 372
As for small saws I run a Jonsered 2252. It's no longer stock but when it was it's identical to a Husky 545 ( sister saw) and I can without a doubt recommend it as a great pro 50cc saw. Light and plenty of power.
Another great option for a low cost small and light pro saw is a Dolmar 421. Around $350 bucks 42cc pro construction. Plenty of saw with a 16 inch 3/8 low profile bar and chain on it
Jon1270
Minister of Fire
Dairyman
Minister of Fire
Jon1270
Minister of Fire
Dairyman
Minister of Fire
husky345 vermont resolute
Feeling the Heat
I have a 455 rancher and a 345 . Both saws have been excellent. The 345 is a great all around saw. They don't make the 345 anymore but the 346xp is the equivalent now. Rumour has it that they're making sthil a lot cheaper these days?
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Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Jon1270
Minister of Fire
They don't make the 346xp anymore either (and it was never the equivalent of the 345). The 346 is pro-type saw, with a split magnesium crankcase. The 345 is a plastic-chassis homeowner saw. The current offering on par with a 346 would be the 550xp, with the 545 close behind it.
Stihl makes saws at all sorts of price points, with a fairly wide range of quality levels. As does Husky.
I did a fix and flip Dolmar 421, nice light saw, responsive, great for under 4 inch wood especially. I would not be afraid of it for a small saw.
Another twist:
You said you scrounge, then recut, mostly small wood, and use the splitter to hold it like a vise. Picking up and setting down saw seemed like what you wanted to make easier. How about eliminating the need to put down and pickup, by using a small top handle saw?
It seems like the 365 and 372 overlap size and function. Either would be somewhat valuable to sell and convert to cash to fund the next saw. The 41, older, probably not worth much to sell, so would be cheap to keep as your 'middle saw'. Then you'd have a 70+, and a mid sized, although heavy, 41.
Then, get a small top handle to use for the recutting length. Not the official proper OSHA approved way, but I use an Echo top CS3000. 30cc, old reed valve engine, with a 12 inch bar. I hold wood with left hand, cut one handed with right, keeping saw to the right, outside the plane of my body. Pretty small motor, but with a sharp chain it cuts pretty quick. And, the cuts are only a couple seconds apart as you move the branch or log along. I end up with a lot of 18-20 splits from others, and need them 16 or under, so with the edge of the wheelbarrow as a rest, and makes it safer to be solidly supported, the echo is pretty fast. Much better than using a sawbuckl and two handed saw because the sawbuck doesn't solidly grasp the wood in place.
Anyway, my .02 for another option to think about.
Another twist:
You said you scrounge, then recut, mostly small wood, and use the splitter to hold it like a vise. Picking up and setting down saw seemed like what you wanted to make easier. How about eliminating the need to put down and pickup, by using a small top handle saw?
It seems like the 365 and 372 overlap size and function. Either would be somewhat valuable to sell and convert to cash to fund the next saw. The 41, older, probably not worth much to sell, so would be cheap to keep as your 'middle saw'. Then you'd have a 70+, and a mid sized, although heavy, 41.
Then, get a small top handle to use for the recutting length. Not the official proper OSHA approved way, but I use an Echo top CS3000. 30cc, old reed valve engine, with a 12 inch bar. I hold wood with left hand, cut one handed with right, keeping saw to the right, outside the plane of my body. Pretty small motor, but with a sharp chain it cuts pretty quick. And, the cuts are only a couple seconds apart as you move the branch or log along. I end up with a lot of 18-20 splits from others, and need them 16 or under, so with the edge of the wheelbarrow as a rest, and makes it safer to be solidly supported, the echo is pretty fast. Much better than using a sawbuckl and two handed saw because the sawbuck doesn't solidly grasp the wood in place.
Anyway, my .02 for another option to think about.
maple1
Minister of Fire
Another twist:
You said you scrounge, then recut, mostly small wood, and use the splitter to hold it like a vise. Picking up and setting down saw seemed like what you wanted to make easier. How about eliminating the need to put down and pickup, by using a small top handle saw?
I would get or make a sawbuck (very simple to make), and stop doing the splitter vise thing all together.
Most underated firewood thingie out there, aside from the wedge. Just throw your smaller stuff on it, and when it gets full, cut it all up. All at once. Right quick like.
(If you're doing much small stuff).
I have one I quickly cabbaged together, built on a pallet. I can throw it on one of my ATV trailers, and have a mobile sawbuck. Take it to the woods, load it up, pull it back to the wood area, cut it all up in 5 minutes.
(That might not help your saw choices any - but that's a can of worms itself anyway, always is.
)
You said you scrounge, then recut, mostly small wood, and use the splitter to hold it like a vise. Picking up and setting down saw seemed like what you wanted to make easier. How about eliminating the need to put down and pickup, by using a small top handle saw?
I would get or make a sawbuck (very simple to make), and stop doing the splitter vise thing all together.
Most underated firewood thingie out there, aside from the wedge. Just throw your smaller stuff on it, and when it gets full, cut it all up. All at once. Right quick like.
(If you're doing much small stuff).
I have one I quickly cabbaged together, built on a pallet. I can throw it on one of my ATV trailers, and have a mobile sawbuck. Take it to the woods, load it up, pull it back to the wood area, cut it all up in 5 minutes.
(That might not help your saw choices any - but that's a can of worms itself anyway, always is.
)Thanks for the replys
I think I have my game plan. After reviewing the Dolmar 421, I want one. Problem I see is Dolmar is now Makita and I'm having trouble finding a 421 locally. Any good online sources?? After the 421 I will go after either a 30cc Dolmar or Echo. I like my toys...lol
I think I have my game plan. After reviewing the Dolmar 421, I want one. Problem I see is Dolmar is now Makita and I'm having trouble finding a 421 locally. Any good online sources?? After the 421 I will go after either a 30cc Dolmar or Echo. I like my toys...lol
Jon1270
Minister of Fire
Try this place. I've bought parts from them, and the owner is a member on another forum where I participate. His prices are typically quite good, and he's a straight shooter.
http://performanceoutdoorequipment.com/pages/brands-we-carry
http://performanceoutdoorequipment.com/pages/brands-we-carry
