I am renovation an outbuilding which previously had a very old Jotul 600 that came with the house. It was a bit ruff and rusty so I have grinded it down and will paint it shortly with Thermlac stove paint. Luckily there is no signs of any cracks and the back is fine as are all the internal plates. I have several questions I was hoping you could help me with;
1 There was an existing 5" enamel flue which exits from the top of the stove will go up the new internal wall (15†out) which will radiate heat into the room, however after the 45 degree bend under the pitched ceiling, the flue has to pass through a new timber frame/plasterboard wall to connect with the existing ceramic flue pipe in the chimney. Building Control are happy for me to just put on a 30mm Rockwool sleeve (http://www.stovesonline.co.uk/wood_burning_stoves/Flexible-Flue-Liners.html) on the pipe and ensure that the wall timbers are 15†away (which is 3 x the diameter and complies with uk building regs), or do I need to buy a twin walled flue section or some sort of wall plate? http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=280643992712
2 Rope seals – does anyone know what size of rope I need for the front opening door (no glass) and for around the hot plate on top which is particularly smoky just now and quite badly pitted?
3 Is there some sort of flue collar that provide and air tight seal around the exit of the flue on top of the stove?
4 Should I put a damper into the first section of the flue so I can control the draw?
5 I had problems lighting the stove when testing, however I hope this was due to a birds nest I found in the chimney when I took off the flue. If anyone has any tips regarding the amount of air gap I need to leave on the front dial when lighting that would be great, I presume I will not have to leave the door open an inch anymore!
6 Heat deflector – I need to put heat deflector on the wall behind the stove. I can get reclaimed slate 6 x 2 slabs which are fine for the hearth as it is a concrete floor, but how can I fix these behind the stove leaving a air gap to the wall? Fireboard is very expensive and I have not been able to find a non combustible alternative apart from off cuts from the slate slabs acting as spacers.
Thanks for any replies or assistance,
David
1 There was an existing 5" enamel flue which exits from the top of the stove will go up the new internal wall (15†out) which will radiate heat into the room, however after the 45 degree bend under the pitched ceiling, the flue has to pass through a new timber frame/plasterboard wall to connect with the existing ceramic flue pipe in the chimney. Building Control are happy for me to just put on a 30mm Rockwool sleeve (http://www.stovesonline.co.uk/wood_burning_stoves/Flexible-Flue-Liners.html) on the pipe and ensure that the wall timbers are 15†away (which is 3 x the diameter and complies with uk building regs), or do I need to buy a twin walled flue section or some sort of wall plate? http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=280643992712
2 Rope seals – does anyone know what size of rope I need for the front opening door (no glass) and for around the hot plate on top which is particularly smoky just now and quite badly pitted?
3 Is there some sort of flue collar that provide and air tight seal around the exit of the flue on top of the stove?
4 Should I put a damper into the first section of the flue so I can control the draw?
5 I had problems lighting the stove when testing, however I hope this was due to a birds nest I found in the chimney when I took off the flue. If anyone has any tips regarding the amount of air gap I need to leave on the front dial when lighting that would be great, I presume I will not have to leave the door open an inch anymore!
6 Heat deflector – I need to put heat deflector on the wall behind the stove. I can get reclaimed slate 6 x 2 slabs which are fine for the hearth as it is a concrete floor, but how can I fix these behind the stove leaving a air gap to the wall? Fireboard is very expensive and I have not been able to find a non combustible alternative apart from off cuts from the slate slabs acting as spacers.
Thanks for any replies or assistance,
David
