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Help with Osburn 2400 insert

Post in 'The Hearth Room - Wood Stoves and Fireplaces' started by Colorado Boy, Dec 3, 2013.

  1. Colorado Boy

    Colorado Boy New Member

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    Hey guys i have an old insert I'm upgrading with the new Osburn insert. My question is when running the new liner down do i need to remove the old screw type damper that's just above the insert? Does the Osburn need a block off plate like my old insert does? The insert I have now didn't have a liner in it so there won't be any way to put a plate where the old soft plate is now. I hope this makes sense. Thanks

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  2. stoveguy13

    stoveguy13 Minister of Fire

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    Yes you will need to remove the damper and i would put in a new sheet metal block off plate.
  3. Colorado Boy

    Colorado Boy New Member

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    Ok I just don't understand how to install a new plate? Also is that something I can buy or have to build? Why does my old insert have a sliding steel plate on top of it? Also it sounds like the Osburn has air control on the front of it to slow the fire down.
  4. stoveguy13

    stoveguy13 Minister of Fire

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    it sounds like your old insert may have been more of the old decretive box units. you can buy a block off plate on line but usually need to modify it anyway. the osburn does have an air control on the front of it. It is nothing like you fireplace or you old insert it is more of a stove then a fireplace.
  5. Colorado Boy

    Colorado Boy New Member

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  6. Colorado Boy

    Colorado Boy New Member

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    Ok thanks. Well to explain more in depth our unit now has a big block off plate on top of the stove and a flexible type one about 16 inches or so above it. It must be to contain the heat more in the stove I guess? The old insert does work pretty good but it eats the wood up, that's why I want to upgrade. I'm just wondering how to put the new plate into the new liner?
  7. stoveguy13

    stoveguy13 Minister of Fire

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    If you do search on this site you will find a bunch off different methods of how to build your own
  8. Swedishchef

    Swedishchef Minister of Fire

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    Either get someone to build one or you can build your own with 24ga sheet metal. Relatively cheap in cost. Stuff some roxul above it, you can save quite a bit of heat escaping up the chimney with the insulation....lots of people have stated this in numerous posts on the forum and even have pictures of the install

    Good luck!
  9. Colorado Boy

    Colorado Boy New Member

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  10. Colorado Boy

    Colorado Boy New Member

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    Sorry guys i guess I was confusing the block off plate with a dampner? I was asking if these newer stoves need a dampner plate installed in the pipe or not? I hope I'm making sense now.
  11. weatherguy

    weatherguy Minister of Fire

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    You can get a piece of sheet metal at Home Depot for under $10, get some tin snips and pull up one of the threads on here on how to make a block off plate, simple actually, you can get Roxul at a Lowes, not sure if HD has it or not.
  12. weatherguy

    weatherguy Minister of Fire

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    Most likely not, they're only installed if for some reason you have too strong a draft and there's no other option.
  13. xtrordinair

    xtrordinair Member

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    i agree the block off plate is a good idea ,butt not a necessity .I have installed hundreds of liner/inserts over the years with only stuffing the area around the liner right at the top.I have yet to have someone call and say were losing lots of heat up the chimney.
  14. Swedishchef

    Swedishchef Minister of Fire

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    Around here if you have a masonry chimney with an insert you lose tons of heat without a plate. But we average -13 c temperatures for 3 months of the year ( or colder).
  15. Colorado Boy

    Colorado Boy New Member

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  16. Colorado Boy

    Colorado Boy New Member

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    That's what I was looking for? The old insert I'm running now don't have a metal liner in the masonry. I seen how to put in the blockoff plate for the new stove and such. Any other suggestions would be great thankyou.
  17. rwhite

    rwhite Minister of Fire

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    Almost certain you will have to remove the damper and quite possibly a row of brick from the back. I also recommend insulating the liner. Knowing everything was done right helps you sleep better at night. I needed 17' of liner and insulation so the leftover insulation (froma 20' roll) was plenty for use on the block off plate. I had enough of a lip on the lintle after removing the damper for my plate to rest on. I used heavy guage sheet metal. I also used a bit of the spray adhesive that comes with the insulation to hold the insulation to the plate while I worked it up in there. The liner insulation is definately not as thick as Roxul but it seems to work fine (it's pretty dense).
  18. Colorado Boy

    Colorado Boy New Member

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  19. Colorado Boy

    Colorado Boy New Member

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    Hey thanks r white did you use the roxol around you're liner? My chimney is 13×13 and 20 feet tall. I should have lots of clearance to run the liner down. Do I just pack the insulation all around the liner from the top to the bottom? Also did you use the double wall liner or the single wall? I have an exterior chimney by the way. It sounds pretty strait forward. Thanks
  20. rwhite

    rwhite Minister of Fire

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    If you buy the entire liner/insulation kit it will come with a roll of insulation and a steel mesh sock. You just roll the insulation out, place the liner on top, spray some adhesive on the liner and wrap it (the insulation will be about 2' wide and 20' long") It will make sense how it's done when you see the kit. Once the adhesive is set you slip the mesh sock over the entire liner to protect it. I used single wall 6" liner. I got mine from Fireside Chimney and they had great service. 2 people can do the job in a few hours. I did it alone but once you get that insulation and sock on there it's pretty dang heavy and ackward. My chimney is exterior as well.
  21. Colorado Boy

    Colorado Boy New Member

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  22. Colorado Boy

    Colorado Boy New Member

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    Thanks for all you're help! I wonder if it makes much difference between the single wall and the double wall since you use insulation anyway? Also last thing I am trying to figure out how to hook up the liner to the insert because once I scoot it back in place there won't be any space? Is the liner flexible to where I can hook it up and then slide it back in place?
  23. rwhite

    rwhite Minister of Fire

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    It's flexible but not much. I had to use a 30 degree SS elbow + the appliance adapter. This is where a friend helps as I only had about 6-8" above the stove to work. Get the stove in, get the adapters and correct angles on the stove and then have someone lower the pipe to you. It's a BIG PIA if you try and do this yourself and attempt to raise the liner from the bottom. I still have scars.
  24. Colorado Boy

    Colorado Boy New Member

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  25. Colorado Boy

    Colorado Boy New Member

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    I wonder how much more heat and efficiency I would gain for now with my old insert installing a liner vs the masonry chimney? I don't really want to spend the money on a new liner that I can't use with the new Osburn stove though?

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