Help with St. Croix Pellet Stove?

  • Active since 1995, Hearth.com is THE place on the internet for free information and advice about wood stoves, pellet stoves and other energy saving equipment.

    We strive to provide opinions, articles, discussions and history related to Hearth Products and in a more general sense, energy issues.

    We promote the EFFICIENT, RESPONSIBLE, CLEAN and SAFE use of all fuels, whether renewable or fossil.
Status
Not open for further replies.
Well if you are going to look at latches, you need to include the door latch and the door gasket.

But I really think trimming that vent is what is needed (remember the OAK is also venting).

Then close that damper on a pencil and see how she looks and acts.
 
Yea the latches are both shut but its funny you say that because sometime when i close the right side latch it tends to pop down and i have to reseal the latch a few times until it stays closed the door doesnt seem to open when it happens because the left side still latched closed..

So you think im better off pulling that OAK pipe off and trim it down so its more straight out the wall so there are less bends in it?
 
Not to mention it seems like the bin on the bottom doesnt come out as smooth as the basement unit does sometimes i have to really play with it to get it to go all the way in? not sure if this has anything to do with it though
 
Csst said:
Yea the latches are both shut but its funny you say that because sometime when i close the right side latch it tends to pop down and i have to reseal the latch a few times until it stays closed the door doesnt seem to open when it happens because the left side still latched closed..

So you think im better off pulling that OAK pipe off and trim it down so its more straight out the wall so there are less bends in it?

Yes and also trimming the outside as well. You see above 15 EVL you are usually supposed to have 4" piping. The manual should speak to that as well as all other venting considerations.
 
Csst said:
Not to mention it seems like the bin on the bottom doesnt come out as smooth as the basement unit does sometimes i have to really play with it to get it to go all the way in? not sure if this has anything to do with it though

Any place there are gaskets everything needs to line up and close tightly. Gaskets are used because what is on one side of where they are shouldn't see what is on the other side while the stove is operating.
 
Do you think they did this becuase they needed to be 4 feet above my gas meter that at the bottom i know they were saying we need to be at least 4 feet away from that meter?
 
Csst said:
Do you think they did this becuase they needed to be 4 feet above my gas meter that at the bottom i know they were saying we need to be at least 4 feet away from that meter?

Could be, but if that is the case they should have switched to 4" for the install. The installation manual is controlling in this situation.

ETA: Did you measure how far it actually is to the gas meter from where the vent exits your house? Trust but verify is always worthwhile.
 
well what do you think? i took the pipe off and was getting ready to cut it down and once i ttok it off and put the pencil in a saw a HUGE difference right away with the whole pipe off? now my question is,is it ok to leave this pipe off the back and just let it run without the pipe the people that installed it told me from the start i didnt need it? what do you think i saw a HUGE diiference though flame was brighter and perked right up and saw blue on the bottom part?
 
OMG!! i just looked again the flame to perky high nice and bight and guess what the black soot already went away? i hope this is ok to run it without the pipe?
 
Csst said:
OMG!! i just looked again the flame to perky high nice and bight and guess what the black soot already went away? i hope this is ok to run it without the pipe?

What that is telling you is there is a restriction in your air intake, likely all of those bends. You would likely get the same result by terminating your outside vent where it exits the house. One is the equivalent of the other.

ETA: Or you had too much air to begin with. They both can result in the same effect. I'd cut the OAK down and reinstall it.
 
Now you talking about that little filter that covers that pipe on the outside?
 
Could it be that the grate outside on the end of the fresh air intake is restricting air flow ?
 
Csst said:
Now you talking about that little filter that covers that pipe on the outside?

If that pipe has any grate on it that can cause a problem as well. I only have something covering the OAK during the off season. Anything used for an OAK screen should allow a lot of air into the system.
 
So do you think i should leave it like it is now where its working or you think i should try taking that little filter off and putting the pipe back on the OAK
 
Csst said:
Is it ok to keep it like it is right now and let it run like this?

Yes, but if you don't want to send your already heated air out the vent you will need to fix things up and reinstall.
 
Csst said:
So do you think i should leave it like it is now where its working or you think i should try taking that little filter off and putting the pipe back on the OAK

and then take all of those unneeded bends out of the OAK and reinstall.

No point in going half the distance. You may discover that fixing the bends will allow the grate to remain there.

Like I said you have a touchy venting system there.

ETA: Well time to top the dragon off and head up the stairs, have a good one.
 
Smokey thanks again fore the help i think i'll fix it up tomorrow and take that filter off the outside and see what happens
 
If the flame is nice and perky, and you have no more black soot, and the stove is putting out good heat, sit back , enjoy it, ,and forget about an OAK. The OAK is not a necessity, it's an option. I run mine 3 years now without OAK, and perfect flame, good draft, and the heat is great.
 
Is there anyway you can send the oak straight out the wall? We have same stove with corner install and ours goes straight out and down maybe a foot. Only time we have issues is when snow gets too deep. I have a question, we have always run our damper open and have had no issues other then some sparks and slightly dirty glass. It seems most people do not do this. Should we be happy our stove is performing well and leave alone or is this something we should tweek?
 
tm22 said:
Is there anyway you can send the oak straight out the wall? We have same stove with corner install and ours goes straight out and down maybe a foot. Only time we have issues is when snow gets too deep. I have a question, we have always run our damper open and have had no issues other then some sparks and slightly dirty glass. It seems most people do not do this. Should we be happy our stove is performing well and leave alone or is this something we should tweek?

I think you should consult the stove's manual and talk to the manufacturer, that damper is there for a reason. There are many people on here that are running St. Croix stoves with the damper closed on a pencil. It is always trade off and your situation isn't exactly the same as another's. You can always give it a try they are after all adjustable.
 
Only open the damper the diameter of a pencil...if you need more air the stove is dirty...
 
Thanks for the information! have started closing damper in small increments. I have learned so much on this forum, you are great!
 
tm22 said:
Thanks for the information! have started closing damper in small increments. I have learned so much on this forum, you are great!

Could you provide a picture of your OAK on the outside of your house and describe the the screen on the end of it.

It is possible that the screen used isn't allowing anywhere close to the amount of air needed into the OAK.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.