HF splitters

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I paid the same price. I think shipping was $89. Don't have cycle time numbers but it isn't super fast. It also does not have a robin engine.

I looked at the same unit at northern but decided against it.

I've only split a few rounds so far so I don't have a ton of useful data yet.
 
Another thing I wanted to point out about thr hf model I got was it does not have a detent valve for the cylinder. It must be actuated in both directions...just fyi.
 
Clarkbar2311 said:
Another thing I wanted to point out about thr hf model I got was it does not have a detent valve for the cylinder. It must be actuated in both directions...just fyi.

Just another way to cut corners that sucks .
 
Yes it does suck. Overall there are plusses and minusses but I'm stuck with my decision and I'm going to make the best out of it. I no longer have to borrow my friends splitter and I do not rely on woodheat. For me its as much a reason to be outside doing manly work away from the stresses of home and work. It's a reality escape.
 
Could you list the pros and cons ?
 
Clarkbar2311 said:
Another thing I wanted to point out about thr hf model I got was it does not have a detent valve for the cylinder. It must be actuated in both directions...just fyi.

wtf, that ain't right....! I would have to change that for sure
 
I changed mine on an old splitter for around $100 and 2 hours of work.
 
Clarkbar2311 said:
Another thing I wanted to point out about thr hf model I got was it does not have a detent valve for the cylinder. It must be actuated in both directions...just fyi.

Do you mean that if you push the lever to the return position it doesn't stay there till the piston hits bottom (or wedge hits top depending on how you look at it)?

Are you sure there isn't a valve and its not just way out of adjustment? My HF splitter needs me to hold the lever for the first ~2 minutes of operation in cold weather till the oil warms up but after that it works perfectly. Never gives me any problems in the summer. I'd try adjusting the "pressure release detent adjusting screw" in the diagram below or calling HF for a new valve.

http://www.princehyd.com/Portals/0/products/valves/LS3000InstS.pdf
 
it is entirely possible that HF did not use a detent valve for the splitting cylinder due to needing the second valve to operate the lift, as mentioned cheap way out instead of a detent valve with a power beyond option for the second valve.
Mine is a Hor./Vert. unit 12 years old.
If the pusher is shaving the beam put a straight edge on top of the beam between the ram and the wedge to see if it is bowed. This was the second thing I ran into on mine which is now 12 years old. the first was the return line filter valve was bad. I have had no issues with the cylinder to date, others have. My valve is worn out at this point. I did have the anchor block for the cylinder let go ( that was exciting) bad weld, no penetration. High pressure hose from pump to valve blew last year. Really need a protection cage over pump as it is exposed to pieces popping or dropping off the beam.
Because mine is a h/v unit the wood is trapped between the wedge and the foot which with very knarly pieces has caused the problems previously stated in an earlier post. ( beam twisted , bowed , flanges bent, return knockoff/ shield for wedge mangled from pieces adhered to wedge) it has seen a lot of cords. You do not always see this stuff occurring as you are splitting Another area of concern on mine is the guides for the push plate impossible to keep them tight so the push plate always ends up with left to right slop which has caused some of the damage.
 
Yes the guide is sloppy. I cant push it to one side or the other. I'd slap a straight edge on it tonight if I can get to it. I don't mind the cylinder not auto returning. I did when I used my friends vertical splitter as I wanted to minimize how long I was kneeling or sitting on a milk crate.
 
So I called HF today and got a few issues semi resolved. They are sending me a new rail assembly beam and slide. I also asked about what they intend to do given that it is advertised to have a Robin engine and came with a Locin. THey said they'd have to call me back on the engine part. I came home and there was a message on my phone offering me 10% off the splitter refunded to my credit card to settle...
 
That 10% will make a nice payment toward a Robin engine, if the Locin ever goes bad...
 
10% is not enough. Thats a sale discount price. I think 20 or 30 would be more fair and reasonable.
 
I'm not going to change it just to change it. The locin works and starts nice. I just have quality doubts longterm.
 
took the 10%.
 
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hope this works
 

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got some pictures up.
 
yeh the manual says 10" max. I've split about 16" max so far. I also find that removing the pin on the 4 way helps the wood work its way past the 4 way.
 
Maybe thats all they want to see for to use the 4 way wedge , not sure just quessing . If truely the capacity was only 10 inches what the use of haveing a splitter . Whats the capacity of the log lift does it have weight capacity on there ? I think my timberwolf is like 500 or something like that on the log lift , I would have to look for sure . I know I have lifted 36 inchers on there .
 
Clarkbar whats the measurement from the bottom of the 4 way to the beam . Just wondering what size splits this thing does . I wonder why they have that pin in the 4 way ?
 
I'll get that dimension once it stops raining. It's out in my shed. Its about 5" or so. I just remove that pin. It's really just in the way.

I'm not sure the lift capacity. But I put my 300lb self on there and it didnt strain.

Other than the sloppy rail I Iike it so far. ,
 
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