Honda Engine, OHC Intake valve stuck open

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Tarmsolo60

Feeling the Heat
Dec 2, 2007
306
Adirondack Mountains
Troybilt splitter, Honda engine stopped running yesterday. After checking several things I discovered it had no compression, I was fearing the worst. After pulling off the OHC cover I discovered the intake valve was stuck in the open position. A simple push on the valve stem to open it more and it reseated by itself. Engine now has compression again, I siliconed the cover back on ( thats what it had originally), drained the oil, and will try with fresh oil later today after silicone has the required 24 hours to cure. Has anybody had this happen to a Honda engine before? Could the return spring be weak? I'm hoping it was a fluke and the fresh oil will help it from happening again.
 
I'm looking forward to a follow up report.
 
I had something similar happen this early summer.

I had a customer bring in their Kubota T series lawn mower, Kawasaki v-twin. It had a no start. They mowed half the lawn, shut it of to take a beak and it would not restart. It turned out to be both intake valve were stuck open. Stuck open so bad I had to use a soft faced mallet to drive them back in, head was removed. I did take them out and clean them. Turns out the fuel (E-10) did not have stabilizer in it from last summer, 8 month ago. They used it with the old stale (rotten) fuel. The fuel when it contacted the back of the valves coated them with a gummy varnish. Since repair and fresh fuel the mower is fine.


Not sure what you situation was. You might want to run some Sea Foam or likeness through the engine.

Derek
 
After letting the silicone cure and filling with fresh synthetic oil I ran the engine for about 15 minutes and had no further problems, started on the first pull actually. Very strange problem, I'm going to be more vigilant about using only newer gas and draining in the fall now that E-10 is here. I would have been very PO'ed if I had to have dropped time and money at a shop to get this fixed because of this great E-10 we are now all blessed with.

I'm assuming the seafoam stuff is some kind of cleaner you spray in through the spark plug hole or maybe even in the carb while running to "degunk" the valves and combustion chamber? I'll look into to it next time I'm by the auto supply.
 
I use a after market lube called tuff oil . The stuff will un strike the valves and clean the scrud out of the motor.
Now i use synthetic oil in all my motors . The stuff is made by am soil and designed for small engines . John
 
I know a guy who stuck a valve in his Honda generator by running his mixed chainsaw gas in it. Apparently the extra oil was enough to carbon up the valve stem and make the valve stick.
 
Rowski said:
You might want to run some Sea Foam or likeness through the engine.

Derek

funny never used the stuff but i was workin on a friend's string trimmer and was reasing up on sea foam. figured i should sea foam the thing and all my small engines (just going to add it to the gas in my engines - and might add some to the carb of the trimmer)
 
Tarmsolo60 said:
After letting the silicone cure and filling with fresh synthetic oil I ran the engine for about 15 minutes and had no further problems, started on the first pull actually. Very strange problem, I'm going to be more vigilant about using only newer gas and draining in the fall now that E-10 is here. I would have been very PO'ed if I had to have dropped time and money at a shop to get this fixed because of this great E-10 we are now all blessed with.

I'm assuming the seafoam stuff is some kind of cleaner you spray in through the spark plug hole or maybe even in the carb while running to "degunk" the valves and combustion chamber? I'll look into to it next time I'm by the auto supply.

Fortunately we are still getting non ethanol fuel at my station. Being trucked in from Canada.

The Sea Foam can be pickup at most parts stores. It gets dumped in the gas. The Sea Foam acts a short to mid range fuel stabilizer. As mentioned there are a lot of additives that basically do the same thing.
 
Rowski said:
Tarmsolo60 said:
After letting the silicone cure and filling with fresh synthetic oil I ran the engine for about 15 minutes and had no further problems, started on the first pull actually. Very strange problem, I'm going to be more vigilant about using only newer gas and draining in the fall now that E-10 is here. I would have been very PO'ed if I had to have dropped time and money at a shop to get this fixed because of this great E-10 we are now all blessed with.

I'm assuming the seafoam stuff is some kind of cleaner you spray in through the spark plug hole or maybe even in the carb while running to "degunk" the valves and combustion chamber? I'll look into to it next time I'm by the auto supply.

Fortunately we are still getting non ethanol fuel at my station. Being trucked in from Canada.

The Sea Foam can be pickup at most parts stores. It gets dumped in the gas. The Sea Foam acts a short to mid range fuel stabilizer. As mentioned there are a lot of additives that basically do the same thing.

Sea Foam comes in two forms, both are useful... One is a liquid in a can, that you pour a couple ounces into a gallon of gas like making premix fuel. The other is an aeresol spray can that can be shot into the carb. IMHO the spray is good when first getting a sick engine going as a way to clean up the valves and such, as well as the inside of the carb air passages. The liquid is good to put in the gas in order to clean out a marginal carb - note that it will work well on a carb that is slightly gummy but still working; but probably won't help one that is totally clogged up.

Gooserider
 
Valve stuck again today...Grrr. I was able to tap on the jug near the valve and get it reseated. Got it running again and let it idle while I ran to the store and found the Sea Foam recommended earlier. Used a squirt bottle and stalled the engine with the Sea Foam by spraying into the carb, let it sit for about 10 minutes and restarted. Went through this procedure one more time and added a little to the gas tank. Seems to have cured the problem, did the same to my lawnmower for the heck of it, even dumped a little in my four wheeler gas tank.

I was never much of a believer in additives but this really seemed to work. Thanks for your recommendation
 
don't know if it's a myth or if this stuff really works but i just sea foamed all my small engines

The husky 272 saw sometimes was a PIA to start because it’s only used about 10 times a year so started it and sprayed some sea foam deep creep into the carb and let it bog down and die - waited five minutes and fired her up - all kinds of smoke but once it cleared she fired on the first pull

did the exact same with my Honda generator, my Honda mower and my snapper mower (i suspect the FD will be on their way with all the white smoke)

also started using sea foam as an additive to both gases (ie mixed gas and straight gas) because some say the ethanol is only good for 30 days before it starts to gum up

The generator is still running (exercising it) but no more smoke – but I’m still going to let it run out of gas and fog the cylinder (this thing never gets used)


deep creep

31CGBGKG7AL._SL500_AA280_.jpg


and sea foam

20060331_seafoam.jpg
 
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