hopper fire update

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corkman

Minister of Fire
Dec 3, 2009
721
SE,Mass
i finalised everything with englander today and my new stove should be delivered in 7-10 days.i paid out $180 in freight.i hav to bring my old stove to a freight center 30 miles away strapped to a pallet.easy drop off ,easy pick up but a lot of inconvenience.again i was very happy with service and cant wait to get the new one.anyone else feel the cold or is it just me.i'm still bothered by what happened with the stove.whats to say it wont happen with the new one,afterall its the exact stove as the one i have.if anyone has experienced fire backing up into the hopper in englander 25 pdv i would greatly appreciate your input.i took some pics today but be patient with me.computers and cameras are not my thing.pellet stoves either by the looks of it.on another note .i've read my manual numerous times since this all happened.a good friend helped with the install and he used selkirk type b gas pipe.my manual calls for simpson duravent .is this an issue and should i replace.pics of vent pipe on the way also.so thankful for this forum and much appreciate all your knowledge and help
 
Although I don't think the piping had anything to do with the hopper fire, the type "B" gas is not rated for pellet stoves (as far as I know). If you would have had some type of house fire with that you probably would have been "up the creek without a paddle" with your insurance company. I'm assuming you didn't have the stove inspected after install? If it were me, I would replace with pellet rated pipe. Just my $.02.
 
X2 what slvrblkk said above.

ETA - The Selkirk type B vent is made of aluminum and cannot stand up to wood burning byproducts and the temperature limit for the type B is not high enough for a pellet stove.
 
will replace then.when u see outside pics i'd eppreciate u guys feedback on upper half of venting and termination.i've always had good draft and air flow but from what i've learned here this may need some tweeking
 
Is it possible the gas venting itself had something to do with the hopper fire?
 
corkman said:
i finalised everything with englander today and my new stove should be delivered in 7-10 days.i paid out $180 in freight.i hav to bring my old stove to a freight center 30 miles away strapped to a pallet.easy drop off ,easy pick up but a lot of inconvenience.again i was very happy with service and cant wait to get the new one.anyone else feel the cold or is it just me.i'm still bothered by what happened with the stove.whats to say it wont happen with the new one,afterall its the exact stove as the one i have.if anyone has experienced fire backing up into the hopper in englander 25 pdv i would greatly appreciate your input.i took some pics today but be patient with me.computers and cameras are not my thing.pellet stoves either by the looks of it.on another note .i've read my manual numerous times since this all happened.a good friend helped with the install and he used selkirk type b gas pipe.my manual calls for simpson duravent .is this an issue and should i replace.pics of vent pipe on the way also.so thankful for this forum and much appreciate all your knowledge and help

I also agree w/ what Smokey & silvrblkk said above......put pellet pipe on the stove!

As for the hopper fire, I don't remember anyone w/ your stove ever having a hopper fire, so the chances of it happening again are small, I think. It would be great if you can get some pics of the way the current install is set-up onto this thread (both inside and outside).

Make sure everything is correct before you start burning the new one.
 
Gio said:
Is it possible the gas venting itself had something to do with the hopper fire?

No connection at all that I can see. Further it looks like the stove handled the burn back quite well from what was posted earlier.

One of the reasons for a sealed hopper is too starve any burn back of combustion air.

Keep being gentle to those gaskets folks they are an important safety device.
 
Most hopper fires are caused by lack of proper maintenance. So if you do the same things with the new stove it will probably happen again. Unless it was determined a defective part was the cause?
 
I think that is a testament of what great customer service Englander Stoves has. I'm glad the fire didn't turn tragic for you and your family and good luck with the new one!
 
thes are the gaskets or whats left of them
 

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this is ventwork from original install.adjustable 90 off stove connected to 12" horizontil which runs to T cleanout.5ft vertical connected to a90 which is connected to another 90 to clear soffit with 12"vertical to get me above roof
 

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corkman said:
this is ventwork from original install.adjustable 90 off stove connected to 12" horizontil which runs to T cleanout.5ft vertical connected to a90 which is connected to another 90 to clear soffit with 12"vertical to get me above roof

Corkman, is that 3" or 4" pipe?

If that's 3", you have a draft issue there...too many 90 degree bends. The EVL of that set-up is 22 or 23. Anything over 15 on 3" pipe is too much. Even if you went to 4" pipe, that set-up is "iffy" at best.
 
i'v always maintained the stove well.this stove ran like a champ for 3 years.its used from nov-april from 7am till maybe 10pm so not many hours on the stove compared to how most people use theirs.anyone with the same stove that could share how they maintain theirs.
 
its 3''.any solutions and what does EVL stand for
 
corkman said:
its 3''.any solutions and what does EVL stand for

EVL=Equivalent Vent Length. Sort of a formula to determine how much "drag" the pipe creates that the blower has to overcome to exhaust the stove. If it gets much above 15 (or you're over 2500' in elevation), your supposed to use 4".

As for a solution, (and I understand that you tried to get above the roof so the deck wouldn't get too covered w/ ash), the only one I see for that set-up is to eliminate the last 90degree bend around the gutter, and put a horizontal cap. That would get the EVL down to around 16 or 17....manageable.

You can also switch to all 4" pipe, but you still have 1 too many 90 degree bends.

If you look at the Englander manual, you'll see what I'm talking about in the upper right corner of the page that shows the cut-away house with the different vent configs.
 
Corkman, just a quick question....why is the stove so far away from the interior wall?
 
those are both exterior walls.its kitty corner installed so the two back corners of the stove are 6" away from each wall according to install instructions.the pic i posted actually shows the stove away from the wall because i took the gaskets out
 
corkman said:
those are both exterior walls.its kitty corner installed so the two back corners of the stove are 6" away from each wall according to install instructions.the pic i posted actually shows the stove away from the wall because i took the gaskets out

OK, I see. But that means that there's another elbow in the pipe (45 degree) that attaches to the stove? If so, your EVL just jumped up to 24.5 - 25.5......not good at all.
 
corkman said:
i'v always maintained the stove well.this stove ran like a champ for 3 years.its used from nov-april from 7am till maybe 10pm so not many hours on the stove compared to how most people use theirs.anyone with the same stove that could share how they maintain theirs.

mine is and 2004 25pdv i shut it down every 12 hrs to dump the pot, once a week i shut it down vacum it and use a wire brush to clean the heavey stuff, use an old fashon (so i'm told) carbon scraper to scrape the pot and wear plate. remove the T and put the vac. in the exhaust of the stove and open and close the door a few times and put my hand over the air inlet (i dont have the OAK hooked up yet) also bang the stove a few times. i have the pellet stove lock pipe, stove to a T 3 feet up to a 90 2 feet into a 8 inch chimny,i'm trying different pellets 8 bags at a time this stove came with a pallet of cubex wich i pissed thru do to improper settings. this is my first year w the stove. hope this helps

Phaty (Rick)
 
couldn't he come out farther horizontal and go straight up avoiding the gutter....no 90's on the top at all. On second thought...might not look good and would be in the way.
 
BIGISLANDHIKERS said:
couldn't he come out farther horizontal and go straight up avoiding the gutter....no 90's on the top at all. On second thought...might not look good and would be in the way.

It seems like he could but it might stick out too far in the walkway.....maybe
 
yes .45 off stove , T and two 90,s up top.i thought about trying to go straight up from the T but it will stick out..it does however eliminate the two upper 90's
 
You can actually replace those two 90 degree elbows with 2 45 degree elbows and get your offset and reduce your EVL by 4 and if you go to 4" with a 3' to 4" adapter before the tee you should be set. 4" pipe allows a longer effective vertical length.

That all being said, since you aren't having a burn issue, at least none that you have divulged to us, you may be fine to just replicate what you already have using the proper vent pipe and constructing your offset with 45 degree elbows instead of 90 degree ones.
 
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