hot cosl burndown question....HI300

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TTigano

Member
Jan 19, 2012
129
Southeastern, Ma
I have norticed that if I rake my coals (mostly red) forward and load a small to medium sized split on I don't get a large flaming log with draft wide open.... Just sort of smoulders..... Split is relatively dry 18% MC.... It's frustrating the unforgiving BLEEP out of me.... What on earth could be the issue? Thx
 
TTigano said:
I have norticed that if I rake my coals (mostly red) forward and load a small to medium sized split on I don't get a large flaming log with draft wide open.... Just sort of smoulders..... Split is relatively dry 18% MC.... It's frustrating the unforgiving BLEEP out of me.... What on earth could be the issue? Thx

Try some kiln dried pine for an experiment. Use two or three small pieces.
 
Ive noticed if I put a piece on top of the coals and crack the door it will flame for a min or two but eventually Unisys smoulders. If I stick the poker through the bottom of the coal bed making a small tunnel under the new split, it will flame right up.... Shouldn't it take off anyway?...
 
when that happens with me I hit the smoldering area with the ol benzomatic plumbers torch for 10 sec and before ya know it the whole stove is rippin
 
TTigano said:
Ive noticed if I put a piece on top of the coals and crack the door it will flame for a min or two but eventually Unisys smoulders. If I stick the poker through the bottom of the coal bed making a small tunnel under the new split, it will flame right up.... Shouldn't it take off anyway?...

When you rake the coals forwrd, are you also dragging a lot of ashes too?
 
Dune said:
TTigano said:
Ive noticed if I put a piece on top of the coals and crack the door it will flame for a min or two but eventually Unisys smoulders. If I stick the poker through the bottom of the coal bed making a small tunnel under the new split, it will flame right up.... Shouldn't it take off anyway?...

When you rake the coals forwrd, are you also dragging a lot of ashes too?

Not a lot of ashes... Just coals.
 
TTigano said:
Ive noticed if I put a piece on top of the coals and crack the door it will flame for a min or two but eventually Unisys smoulders. If I stick the poker through the bottom of the coal bed making a small tunnel under the new split, it will flame right up.... Shouldn't it take off anyway?...

In more than a few few EPA stoves, all the primary air goes into the very front of the of the firebox. That's why you have to rake the coals up to the front to burn them up more quickly. Making a tunnel under the split allows some primary air to get under the split, which accelerates combustion.

Another trick that'd probably work is to lay two small splits side by side with only a small gap between them (instead of one medium split). Where a single split might lollygag around, two splits close together will tend to egg each other on. :) Convection in the vertical gap between the two splits also creates a sort of chimney effect which helps draw a bit of air down under the wood.
 
I shall give that a try... I'm getting real frustrated as it seems I have to open the door a lot to grt the stove going again, then move stuff around etc.. I don't think the air inlet is clogged as it is just a small hole correct?
 
TTigano said:
I shall give that a try... I'm getting real frustrated as it seems I have to open the door a lot to grt the stove going again, then move stuff around etc.. I don't think the air inlet is clogged as it is just a small hole correct?

The inlet's probably not obstructed if the stove's burning well when you load it normally.
 
Could be the split is too thick or that it's not dry in the middle. Try splitting a 2x4 carpentry scrap in half and try that on the hot coals.

Also, resplit that medium split in half and check the moisture on the freshly split surface of the wood. I'm guessing it's going to read higher than 18%.
 
BeGreen said:
Could be the split is too thick or that it's not dry in the middle. Try splitting a 2x4 carpentry scrap in half and try that on the hot coals.

Also, resplit that medium split in half and check the moisture on the freshly split surface of the wood. I'm guessing it's going to read higher than 18%.

+1
Even without an air tunnel in the coals if they are glowing red and you put a small split in there it should erupt into flame in less than a minute (sometimes seconds) and continue to burn for awhile if you have the draft open. Like so many issues on here it seems to be pointing to the wood not being dry enough. I concur with the suggestion about getting a couple pieces of scrap lumber and try that. A piece of 2x4, split or not should burn quickly and hotly without issue on hot coals as should any properly dried small split.

Let us know what you find out.
 
Total newbie here but I add a handful of small sticks and then the split on top - more to keep the split from smooshing the coals than to actually use the sticks for kindling, though they do that, too...
 
If I read your original post, it sounds like you are putting in one split? If you try to burn one split it will not burn very well. Also try to lay out your wood so the air inlet can let air pass through to the rear of the stove. You need to have several peices of wood to get a good burn. In my 300, if I want a small hot fire, I rake coals forward, lay two small splits n/e and then two other splits e/w. Now, the size of the split will determine the heat output. Also, keep that door cracked to increase draft on startup.
 
I have found that one split will not burn well. In my stove if i want small hot fire i put three smal splits on the coals in a criss cross pattern.
 
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