How big is your boiler shed?

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SE Iowa

New Member
Jan 17, 2008
212
SE Iowa
So I'm still leaning towards the garn whs 1500 with a reported dimension of 72"x75"X111" (wxhxl). I would assume a 4" clearance would be needed in the back and on the sides and probably at least 39 in the front, and let's say 9" on top. That would put the minimum internal dimension of a shed at 80"x84"x150". I would like to store at least 1 cord of wood inside so lets add 24" to the width to give 1.25 cords over 120" deep (2'x8'x~10'=1.25cord). If I poured 8" concrete walls for the perimeter, I would have to insulate it with at least 2" of styrofoam (glued to inside wall - no framing). I would want to add a 1/2" peice of fire resistant underlayment on all insides and well. These would add another 4.5" to the sides, front and back.

Final dimensions=89"x84"x159" and rounding up to even dimensions would give 96" wide x 96" high x 168" long or 8'x8'x14'.

Did I leave anything out? and what size is everyone else typically doing?
 
Biomass grower said:
So I'm still leaning towards the garn whs 1500 with a reported dimension of 72"x75"X111" (wxhxl). I would assume a 4" clearance would be needed in the back and on the sides and probably at least 39 in the front, and let's say 9" on top. That would put the minimum internal dimension of a shed at 80"x84"x150". I would like to store at least 1 cord of wood inside so lets add 24" to the width to give 1.25 cords over 120" deep (2'x8'x~10'=1.25cord). If I poured 8" concrete walls for the perimeter, I would have to insulate it with at least 2" of styrofoam (glued to inside wall - no framing). I would want to add a 1/2" peice of fire resistant underlayment on all insides and well. These would add another 4.5" to the sides, front and back.

Final dimensions=89"x84"x159" and rounding up to even dimensions would give 96" wide x 96" high x 168" long or 8'x8'x14'.

Did I leave anything out? and what size is everyone else typically doing?

I think you'll need more clearance than that in back, for service access. You might solve that by putting some sort of door at the back end, as well, so you can get access when you need it.

Joe
 
Good idea, thanks.

The other part of the story has to do with why the concrete walls etc. I'm going to have to build a retaining wall and concrete staircase onto the NE side of out walkout basement. I figure since I'll be pouring walls that I might as well put in a partially submerged room into the retaining wall perhaps 1/3 of the way down the wall. With it being partly submerged it may help on the climate control (i.e. freeze protection from being in the earth, think of earthberm homes).
 
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