how can "figure" in wood have so much depth?

[pybyr]

So, for background, I happen to be a junkie for extreme figure in wood.

I've seen rifles with walnut or maple stocks that have a 3-d depth of figure that varies wildly when you look at them from different angles, and in each case, it seems almost like you are looking down into a hologram, it has such shifting variability and depth. Truly love tiger stripe walnut in furniture, and it can exhibit the same variability based on angle, along with mesmerizing depth. Edit- some birch, especially yellow birch, seems to occasionally also display some stunning figure.

I am really curious how a substance that is so inherently as opaque as wood can have such angle-variable almost holographic depth as really amazing wood grain can exhibit.

I've googled around but not found anything that really delves into the physics or optics, nor have I read any explanations of what causes this figure to occur.

Anyone got any light to shed on this?

Thanks

 

[Larry in OK]

A good bit of that effect comes from the quality of finish. Take the same piece of wood just sanded smooth with no finish on and it won't look the same.

 

[fishingpol]

Agreed. Finish helps it, but also the variations in the colors of the grain give it "depth". I am working on a carving right now that is spalted maple. The spalting is pretty bold, but if you look past that, you can see the light annular growth rings that are a shade darker that the wood itself. It is very interesting to look at.

I really like working native hardwoods with nice grain patterns. I was never a fan of spalted wood, especially if the grain looks muddy. The latest piece I have have nice, clean spalting.

I also worked a piece of white oak that as the piece was turned in the light grains looked better from different angles.

 

[Thistle]

Curly Hard Maple router bit box.Bur Oak paperweight,Hophornbeam/Ironwood mallet.

 

[fishingpol]

There ya go. There's depth in that curly maple. Fine work Thistle.

 

[Blue Vomit]

Curly Hard Maple router bit box.Bur Oak paperweight,Hophornbeam/Ironwood mallet.

Thistle, that maple box is nothing short of incredible.

 

[PapaDave]

Thistle, are the plugs Walnut or an "exotic"?
Love to see inside.

 

[Thistle]

Thistle, are the plugs Walnut or an "exotic"?
Love to see inside.

Walnut plugs & drawer pull.The inside is nothing spectacular,just a scrap piece of doug fir 2 x 6 anchored to scrap piece of 3/4" thick walnut with random holes in it for the router bits.The "lid" is basically a small box with the bottom removed,used upside down.

 

[ScotO]

Awesome stuff Thistle! I hear from several people both here and elsewhere that some of the best figural walnut wood is from the stump and roots. Any thoughts?

 

[pybyr]

Gorgeous stuff. Any tips to share on how you finished it to accentuate the figure, especially the 3-d/ depth? I have a dining room table in progress (which has been too long on the back burner) made of some fabulous tiger maple that I got at a surprisingly low price from a local mill.

Scotty- from pure anecdotal experience, when I have sometimes bumbled across some stunningly figured yellow birch (the amazing grain of which unfortunately only became apparent after I'd already cut it to firewood length and started to put it through the spliter), it always has seemed to be at the lowest parts of the trunk, nearest the stump. Had I had any idea how wild the grain/ figure was I'd have set it aside for something other than firewood

Anyone have any "tips" on how to spot potentially remarkable wood before starting to hack it into firewood size?

 

[pybyr]

Awesome stuff Thistle! I hear from several people both here and elsewhere that some of the best figural walnut wood is from the stump and roots. Any thoughts?

For black walnut in particular, I have always been told that wood from near crotches of trees is highly likely to have some of the most interesting grain.

 

[Thistle]

Gorgeous stuff. Any tips to share on how you finished it to accentuate the figure, especially the 3-d/ depth? I have a dining room table in progress (which has been too long on the back burner) made of some fabulous tiger maple that I got at a surprisingly low price from a local mill.

Scotty- from pure anecdotal experience, when I have sometimes bumbled across some stunningly figured yellow birch (the amazing grain of which unfortunately only became apparent after I'd already cut it to firewood length and started to put it through the spliter), it always has seemed to be at the lowest parts of the trunk, nearest the stump. Had I had any idea how wild the grain/ figure was I'd have set it aside for something other than firewood

Anyone have any "tips" on how to spot potentially remarkable wood before starting to hack it into firewood size?

Its been at least 15yrs now but from what I remember it was razor sharp cabinet scraper,then sanding to 600 grit,clear oil rubbed in then 4-5 coats of spray varnish,rubbed between coats,final coat rubbed with 0000 steel wool & few drops of water then soft cloth/old t shirt.The inside of the box wasnt as nice,had some minor grain tearout that just wouldnt go away,so its 'hidden'.


I look for most anything,even straight grain wood w/ little figure will get my attention if its a local species not normally found at retail or mail order hardwood outlets (Mulberry,Osage/Hedge,Apple,Pear,Honey Locust especially,Ironwood/Hophornbeam,Red Elm (grain like Ash/Red Oak,color similar to Black Cherry,its stunning when you're patient w/coarse texture,sharp tools a definite must) But I wont turn down Red.White Oak,Black Cherry,Black Walnut,Silver Maple or Eastern Red Cedar if its not too much trouble to acquire & mill into blocks & slabs either.

Even these 'normal' species are getting pricey,especially for thicker kiln dried pieces.Sure it takes a while to do it properly but IMO air-dried wood is better to work with,less brittle,has deeper & better colors,not bleached out as much.