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How do I do my stone veneer correctly?

Post in 'The Hearth Room - Wood Stoves and Fireplaces' started by cabinner, Sep 18, 2013.

  1. cabinner

    cabinner Member

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    I think the right term is ventilated air space. It is basically a double wall with metal strips between which make a gap between the two sheets of cement board. The second sheet is placed a bit higher which allows cold air to come in from below, heat up, and exit from the top - making a circulation of air. This should lower the temp of the wall if I am not mistaken.

    No need to go all the way to ceiling... and I like the way this looks.

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  2. webby3650

    webby3650 Master of Fire

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  3. cabinner

    cabinner Member

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    Will do!

    I've strated reading the installation yesterday. Question - if the firebox calls for a 2" clearance then how is it that I will build a wood box around it so it attaches to it...? seems like they are breaking their own rules ;)

    Also, I am buying this part - http://www.woodstovepro.com/store/M...oping-Length-40-68-8647-6DVL-66TA-p14961.html

    I believe it connect to the support box but it seems tomake sense to me to connect it to the stove (to be the first piece that connects after the adapter) because I will then adjust the height from there and also, if I want to clean the pipe - I can just slide it up... is that possible/correct?
  4. Trooper

    Trooper Guest

    Thanks for the explanation, cabinner. Just to clarify, I like the way it looks also; :) wondering whether there was a reason other than aesthetics.
  5. Hogwildz

    Hogwildz Minister of Fire

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    The ceiling support box mounts at the ceiling(hence the name). It is already built that when you install it, it already gives you your 2" space from combustibles.
    The telescoping goes from stove to support box, Class A goes from support box through roof to cap.

    BTW, that site seems high on their pricing.
  6. cabinner

    cabinner Member

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    Thanks Hogwildz. They give a 20% discount and free shipping so it came out to just under $700 for everything... seems reasonable.. What'ya think?

    Sorry to re-ask (I am new to this) you said "telescoping goes from stove to support box".... My ceiling height, floor to ceiling where I penetrate, is about 10ft. Minus stove height = about 7-8 ft. So that telescoping will be connect to some 'regualr" black pipe... Questions is - can I randomly pick the order of connection?

    In other words - once the support box is installed - I am supposed to install from the support box down to the stove - right? Then can the last part to connect to the stove (of course the adapter is the last piece as it connect the stove to the black pip...) be the telescoping pipe? If yes - that makes my life easier.

    Another question for you hogwildz - what tool will make the nicest cut on my roof for the icc flashing? I have a jigsaw, sawzall, and angle grinder....

    Also, I should just make a nice round hole right?
    Last edited: Sep 24, 2013
  7. webby3650

    webby3650 Master of Fire

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    You will need a grinder and a sawzall.
  8. cabinner

    cabinner Member

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    Thanks Webby.

    Can I fill the support box with Roxul? (any of them?)

    Also - do I need screws for connecting the chimney parts? (black pipe to black pipe - adapter, support box to pipe, and so on... )

    you mentioned three screws that I need: 2" regular wood screws (I have).. Stainless self drilling 1/2" hex head - my HD doesn't have in stock. I want to get it from amazon. Are this the ones - you mentioned: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000NHVOW8/ref=biss_dp_t_asn

    You also said I need gasketed ones.. I have these in the cabin: http://www.homedepot.com/p/Teks-9-x...-Screws-100-Pack-21404/100188361#.UkJGxcZwuuk

    Will they work?
  9. webby3650

    webby3650 Master of Fire

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    Yes, those are the correct screws.
    You will need to get locking bands for the Dura-Vent pipe, they don't come with the pipe.
    The pipe will lock into the ceiling box, no screws needed.
    You will need 3 screws in each section of stovepipe. Are you using single wall pipe?

    I will send you some step by step pics of the flashing install.
  10. cabinner

    cabinner Member

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  11. webby3650

    webby3650 Master of Fire

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    Each section of double wall comes with 1/2" Phillips screws. You will need to have some 1" SS screws to attach the stove pipe to the chimney adapter. It's also nice to have 3/4" SS screws to attach the stove top adapter to the flue collar. The double wall will have holes already in the outer wall, use an 1/8" bit to drill through the rest of the pipe and the chimney adapter. This makes a nice secure connection.
    I installed one of these stoves a few months back, and the manual stated closer clearances with single wall pipe than double. We called Englander to verify.
  12. cabinner

    cabinner Member

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    Interesting... The manual on 17-vl shows that with the double wall you get more clearance....

    Then can I just buy the ones from Amazon at 1" instead of 1/2" so i can use them on both those applications?

    Any link for those locking bends?

    Also - in this video:
    He shows (2:30~) that he won't use screws to connect the DVL...
  13. webby3650

    webby3650 Master of Fire

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    He is also covered in tats and his Hearth Board is backwards.;lol

    I always forget that we have a special way of adapting the DVL to the stovetop. To the best of my knowledge, it's required to be attached with 3 screws. Those adapters typically are very sloppy. I have never seen that chimney adapter either, unless it's something new, don't expect it to look that way.
  14. cabinner

    cabinner Member

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  15. webby3650

    webby3650 Master of Fire

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    I don't know of a link, they should be available anywhere that sells Dura-Vent Dura-Tech.
    No, you do not want to use 1" screws anywhere on the chimney, they will go through the inner wall. To attach the flashing to the pipe you will need 1/2".
    You cannot use insulation in the ceiling box. The only chimney that makes a ceiling box insulation that I am aware of is Hart&Cooley TLC.
    http://www.hartandcooley.com/products/tlcsi/shielding-insulation-wrap
  16. Ed Williams

    Ed Williams New Member

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    You've won- Nice job!
  17. cabinner

    cabinner Member

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    Just got my pipe delivered. All made it through fine except the telescoping pipe that was damaged a bit. You think I can bang it into shape or should I request a replacement?

    Thanks Ed btw!

    [​IMG]



    [​IMG]
    Last edited: Sep 25, 2013
  18. cabinner

    cabinner Member

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    OMG my feet look awful:)...
  19. webby3650

    webby3650 Master of Fire

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    It'll work, but it's always gonna look bent. Since you don't need it right away, I'd send it back.
    By the way, did you notice the tag saying that if you bought it on the Internet there may not be a warranty?
  20. cabinner

    cabinner Member

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    BTW - what kind of stove pipe paint to buy? I saw that the telescoping part gets scratched... ?

    Can someone recommend a specific brand?
  21. begreen

    begreen Mooderator Staff Member

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    Where did you order from? I'd return the part.
  22. webby3650

    webby3650 Master of Fire

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    It's painted with Stove Bright. They were making a Specific color for Dura-Vent but quit and said it's now Satin Black. Well, it's not a perfect match. Just buy a whole can and give it a quick coat.
  23. Hogwildz

    Hogwildz Minister of Fire

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    Send it back, you paid good money for it, should get a good pipe.
    They will prolly try and jam you shipping back though since you accepted it.
  24. cabinner

    cabinner Member

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    Will do. I will request a replacement.

    Messed up my first burn but that is ok as we already booked a place near by just in case we don't finish in time. I will connect everything and just leave this part for next time...

    BTW - can I cut the support box? I want to cut it in an angle so it sits level... Tool for that?
  25. webby3650

    webby3650 Master of Fire

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    Yes, it cuts good with snips. I prefer power shears though!==c

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