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How do I do my stone veneer correctly?

Post in 'The Hearth Room - Wood Stoves and Fireplaces' started by cabinner, Sep 18, 2013.

  1. Hogwildz

    Hogwildz Minister of Fire

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    Right & left tin snips are much easier to cut with then straights.
    webby3650 likes this.

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  2. cabinner

    cabinner Member

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    Important question.. In the englander 17-vl manual it says that if I caddy corner it I can keep it 6" from the corner to "unprotected areas".. Where do I take my measurement from?

    My wall is constructed in layers like this - natural stone, cement board, metal furring channels, cement board, steel studs (roxul between studs), and wood strips (which are on the other side of the studs of course)

    So do I take 6" from the stone or from the wood on the other side of the wall (the combustible)?
  3. cabinner

    cabinner Member

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    Got the snips! Thanks!
  4. Hogwildz

    Hogwildz Minister of Fire

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    I believe you take your measurements from the combustible surface. In your case from the nearest wood in the wall.
  5. cabinner

    cabinner Member

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    Thanks hogwildz!

    Can I insulate the inside of the support box with roxul?
  6. Hogwildz

    Hogwildz Minister of Fire

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    Negative on insulating the support box.
    As Webby said, there may be one manufacturer who lets you.
  7. cabinner

    cabinner Member

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    Hogwildz - just in case : if I have an issue and already made a hole in the roof - how should I temporary close it? I'm in home Depot right now.. Hhhh
  8. Hogwildz

    Hogwildz Minister of Fire

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    Yes you can always lay a pc of metal over the hole temporarily.
    Tuck the top under the shingles, enough that the top of the metal is not exposes to any water that may run down between the shingle seams.
    Then just screw neoprene washer head screw one on each middle side of the temporary metal pan and a couple at the bottom to secure the temp pan.
    The more shingles you can slide under the shingles, including the sides, the less screws you will need temporarily, and less holes that may need to be sealed later.
    If you do it so the screw holes fall within the underside of the new roof flashing when it does get installed, the holes are not a problem at all, as they will be covered by the new flashing.

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