How do I tend an overnight fire in my Great Western

  • Active since 1995, Hearth.com is THE place on the internet for free information and advice about wood stoves, pellet stoves and other energy saving equipment.

    We strive to provide opinions, articles, discussions and history related to Hearth Products and in a more general sense, energy issues.

    We promote the EFFICIENT, RESPONSIBLE, CLEAN and SAFE use of all fuels, whether renewable or fossil.
Status
Not open for further replies.

Me2

New Member
Nov 14, 2013
10
Kansas
I've spent the afternoon researching fires. For one thing, I know now that I open the door WAY too much. I just need to let the fire do its thing.

Getting a good overnight fire is a little beyond me. If someone could explain the process, that would be fantastic!

I have a Great Western 1521. It has the ash door in the bottom which I usually crack a wee bit to cause a draft, and then close up after the fire is roaring. The middle handle on the main door (see picture) does unscrew, so that is the real draft as there is a metal pocket behind it, but I never use because it seems a hassle to screw and unscrew.
Also, on the top behind the pipe is a sliding draft or damper (I think?) I included a picture of that as well. I've never used it because I actually don't know what it is for. How do I work all these openings to get my fire going well, and keep going through most of the night? We also have a damper on the pipe, which I am pretty good at using. I close up all the dampers before bed, so I get a nice slow fire. I'm just concerned about the amount of ASH that I get.
Here's a couple more questions. I can easily stand the wood up and pack it in but would it burn faster than laying down? Also, I read where it said to keep the wood within 4-6" but some of our pieces are HUGE. Does it really matter once you've got the fire going to use the large ones?
 

Attachments

  • 008.JPG
    008.JPG
    364.5 KB · Views: 229
  • 001.JPG
    001.JPG
    199.7 KB · Views: 256
Last edited:
I don't think these older stoves were meant or designed for overnight heating with wood. Assuming it has shaker grates of some sort, it may have been designed for coal.

For long burns with wood, it will take some experimentation. If you don't already have one, install a stack damper in the stove pipe. It would probably work best to use the draft control on the loading door as opposed to the one underneath.

Also, you should carefully choose your wood species and chunk size for overnight burns - to get the most pounds of wood in and also to have wood which has the best coaling qualities. Wood differs in that some turns to ash almost right away while others turn to glowing red coals which hang around awhile.
 
I don't think these older stoves were meant or designed for overnight heating with wood. Assuming it has shaker grates of some sort, it may have been designed for coal.

For long burns with wood, it will take some experimentation. If you don't already have one, install a stack damper in the stove pipe. It would probably work best to use the draft control on the loading door as opposed to the one underneath.

Also, you should carefully choose your wood species and chunk size for overnight burns - to get the most pounds of wood in and also to have wood which has the best coaling qualities. Wood differs in that some turns to ash almost right away while others turn to glowing red coals which hang around awhile.

There are not grates on the bottom. It's just flat cast iron.
DAMPER is the word I was trying to remember..not draft! I'm such a blonde! There is a damper on the pipe already. The draft control opens up into a little chimney type thing that goes down the door, and continues down to near the bottom of the stove. So, I didn't see any difference in using the ash door instead.
 
If it has no grate - and it looks like it never had one (no rim for it, etc.), that's good news - then it is designed as a wood stove!
Of course, it's still not a modern air tight (combustion controlled) wood stove.

Between the stack damper and wood size and type..and even moisture content (super dry wood burns too fast), you can probably get something going and still have some embers 6-8 hours later. Try various things, even loading the wood in a "tall" fashion.
 
If it has no grate - and it looks like it never had one (no rim for it, etc.), that's good news - then it is designed as a wood stove!
Of course, it's still not a modern air tight (combustion controlled) wood stove.

Between the stack damper and wood size and type..and even moisture content (super dry wood burns too fast), you can probably get something going and still have some embers 6-8 hours later. Try various things, even loading the wood in a "tall" fashion.

Now, that's what I was wondering! I can stack the wood up instead of laying it down because of how tall it is, and really pack it in, but my concern is, would it burn up faster? I can only fit 19 inch logs in sideways, but standing up, much longer and wider ones. I have to call the wood vendor to know what he's selling, but beggars can't be choosers :(
 
Okay, I tried something new. I stood all the wood up (it was just 3 smallish logs about 3" across each and a larger one about 5" across). The heat is so intense I can hardly stand being in the same room. I've NEVER had it this hot and I'm a little concerned. It's at least 80 degrees 6' from the stove. The fire sounds calm, a little crackly here and there. The damper is impossible to touch and anything within 6' is definitely warm to the touch and when I went to move stuff further back because I was worried, my clothes got hot. I've got the ceiling fan on and a box fan going to try to move the heat, but it's not moving. I guess I got my all-nighter fire. :(

I've kept fires going during the day, but always laid the wood flat. I've even packed it more full than what I did tonight. I've just never had this much heat before!
 
Status
Not open for further replies.