How do you get such long burn and heating times ?

[FPX Dude]

How you guys get such long burn times and long heating time? I have FPX 36 and can load maybe 3-4 splits (MAX) in the box, which will give me about ~ 2 hrs. burn time, then down to coals for another hour, then I reload...but if I don't reload, then the fan may go for another hour before it finally cools enough and automatically turns off, then really no more heat. I burn seasoned almond which "they" say is better than oak, but I dunno...

So, do you have bigger box's and can load more? Is it because mine is in insert and not free standing so I just don't have as much surface area exposed? I was also thinking of maybe replacing the firebrick with some kind of soapstone for longer heat, whaddya think about that, or is that even possible?

 

[Cearbhaill]

How you guys get such long burn times and long heating time? I have FPX 36 and can load maybe 3-4 splits (MAX) in the box, which will give me about ~ 2 hrs. burn time, then down to coals for another hour, then I reload...but if I don't reload, then the fan may go for another hour before it finally cools enough and automatically turns off, then really no more heat. I burn seasoned almond which "they" say is better than oak, but I dunno...

So, do you have bigger box's and can load more? Is it because mine is in insert and not free standing so I just don't have as much surface area exposed? I was also thinking of maybe replacing the firebrick with some kind of soapstone for longer heat, whaddya think about that, or is that even possible?

I have just under a 2 cf firebox on my insert and can get six hours of good, solid heat and viable coals after seven, but it took me a year of practice to do so.
Mainly playing with the air- letting it go just long enough (but not too long) before I cut it back.

 

[Jags]

Big firebox, better wood, controlled burn, able to extract all available heat to living area (all this does is allow for a slower burn which extends the burn length.)

Thats just a few things that can increase burn times. Well that and Hogz, nuclear pellets.

 

[atvdave]

I'm a newbie as well but I have learned some things in the short time I have been burning, and reading this web sight.

Let the fire get burning real good and then tweak down the air input on the unit. Don't let it smolder, but it doesn't have to be a roaring fire either.

Don't let the ash/coals build up. If it gets too think with 1/2 burnt coals or ash my wood will only have little fire and smolder down to more 1/2 burnt ashes.

Don't run the blower on full. It will cool the firebox and keep the fire cool, so less heat.

 

[BrotherBart]

I will let other EPA fireplace owners give advice on more heat and longer burns but with a 3.7 cubic foot firebox and re-burn technology if you have wood in the 20% moisture range and decent draft then the way you are burning it is wasting a lot of heat that shouldn't be wasted. That pup should be able to crank out heat for eight hours at least. And I am talking serious, over 400 degree surface temp, heat.

Heck I get a two to three hour burn at over 400 degree heat out of my Jotul F3 with maybe a one cubic foot firebox.

 

[atvdave]

WOW.. I didn't know it had a 3.7cf fire box. My Lopi has a 3.1cf firebox and I get burns all night. I will always have hot ash/coals to easily start a new fire after 8 hours, and the insert will still have hot air blowing out of the blower on low setting. I would have the insert checked out to see if there isn't something wrong. You should get at least 6 to 8 hours of burn time, and with a 3.7cf box I would think longer.

Also how large are the splits your loading? I can get 5 or 6 on my smaller box size.

 

[TKeller]

I am not getting more than three hours of good hot heat; heat that is enough to keep the house up to temp on a cold day. The dilemmas I have going against me for longer burn times are 1) a need to keep the air bypass more open to generate more heat into the room and 2) even if I don't need the roaring fire on a warmer day if I cut the air back too much I start to get smoky glass and probably a lot of smoke up the chimney. That is my biggest disappointment so far with the new epa stove (lopi freedom) versus my old stove is the burn times aren't that much longer. I do feel I get more heat per volume of wood. Oh and second disappointment is I smell more smoke when I open the door to reload. No perfect system out there I don't believe. Tony

 

[kenny chaos]

I will let other EPA fireplace owners give advice on more heat and longer burns but with a 3.7 cubic foot firebox and re-burn technology if you have wood in the 20% moisture range and decent draft then the way you are burning it is wasting a lot of heat that shouldn't be wasted. That pup should be able to crank out heat for eight hours at least. And I am talking serious, over 400 degree surface temp, heat.

Heck I get a two to three hour burn at over 400 degree heat out of my Jotul F3 with maybe a one cubic foot firebox.

Quite the sales pitch. I must be running my liberty wrong.

 

[bsruther]

I don't know how many cubic feet my non-cat buck stove is, but it's somewhere between 3 and 4. Last year, (my first burning in it) I could never get an all night burn. This year I can get 7 hours with no problem. This is mainly due to what I've learned on here. Dry wood is a given, but to me the one most important thing is air flow. The next most important thing for me is having a good hot chunky bed of coals when I pile the wood in for overnight. It helps to use thick splits too.

 

[BrotherBart]

I will let other EPA fireplace owners give advice on more heat and longer burns but with a 3.7 cubic foot firebox and re-burn technology if you have wood in the 20% moisture range and decent draft then the way you are burning it is wasting a lot of heat that shouldn't be wasted. That pup should be able to crank out heat for eight hours at least. And I am talking serious, over 400 degree surface temp, heat.

Heck I get a two to three hour burn at over 400 degree heat out of my Jotul F3 with maybe a one cubic foot firebox.

Quite the sales pitch. I must be running my liberty wrong.

It has appeared all along that you are. I can't believe those short burn times you get out of that beast. The only thing I can figure is you are giving it too much primary air that makes a pretty fire but not great heat. Or that you are running at some monster temps to keep the place warm thereby eating up a bunch of wood.

I have been content to sit on the side and watch you think all of the rest of us are all full of BS. :coolgrin:

 

[kenny chaos]

I will let other EPA fireplace owners give advice on more heat and longer burns but with a 3.7 cubic foot firebox and re-burn technology if you have wood in the 20% moisture range and decent draft then the way you are burning it is wasting a lot of heat that shouldn't be wasted. That pup should be able to crank out heat for eight hours at least. And I am talking serious, over 400 degree surface temp, heat.

Heck I get a two to three hour burn at over 400 degree heat out of my Jotul F3 with maybe a one cubic foot firebox.

Quite the sales pitch. I must be running my liberty wrong.

It has appeared all along that you are. I can't believe those short burn times you get out of that beast. The only thing I can figure is you are giving it too much primary air that makes a pretty fire but not great heat. Or that you are running at some monster temps to keep the place warm thereby eating up a bunch of wood.

I have been content to sit on the side and watch you think all of the rest of us are all full of BS. :coolgrin:

I don't think anyone is BS'ing (at least not everyone) but if you've really been watching, I've tried to stress the fact that we have R-.08 walls and I do believe that makes all the difference and is never discussed with all the threads about burn times.
Not to steal the thread but if it helps anyone- I shut the primary all the way down and I lose any flame in a matter of minutes. I have played around with all kinds of adjustments on it and as far as monster heat, the stove top has never been over 600 degrees and when it's really cold out, I can't get it to 600 degrees. I bought the HF meter and my wood tests good and I have great draft.
I look at it this way: The house is not drafty. It's like having a good wind screen around a stove outside. It won't heat up like a stove inside a well insulated box.
It does a whole lot better than the last stove.
Don't you believe this is possible?

 

[Brian VT]

Larger splits packed tightly (minimize air space between) seem to give me the longest burns, although not the hottest.
I don't know the size of my firebox but I usually have enough coals to restoke and 200 deg. stovetop after 7 hrs.
I use that method before bed. My wife burns smaller hotter loads during the day.

 

[Jfk4th]

I will let other EPA fireplace owners give advice on more heat and longer burns but with a 3.7 cubic foot firebox and re-burn technology if you have wood in the 20% moisture range and decent draft then the way you are burning it is wasting a lot of heat that shouldn't be wasted. That pup should be able to crank out heat for eight hours at least. And I am talking serious, over 400 degree surface temp, heat.

Heck I get a two to three hour burn at over 400 degree heat out of my Jotul F3 with maybe a one cubic foot firebox.

Quite the sales pitch. I must be running my liberty wrong.

It has appeared all along that you are. I can't believe those short burn times you get out of that beast. The only thing I can figure is you are giving it too much primary air that makes a pretty fire but not great heat. Or that you are running at some monster temps to keep the place warm thereby eating up a bunch of wood.

I have been content to sit on the side and watch you think all of the rest of us are all full of BS. :coolgrin:

I don't think anyone is BS'ing (at least not everyone) but if you've really been watching, I've tried to stress the fact that we have R-.08 walls and I do believe that makes all the difference and is never discussed with all the threads about burn times.
Not to steal the thread but if it helps anyone- I shut the primary all the way down and I lose any flame in a matter of minutes. I have played around with all kinds of adjustments on it and as far as monster heat, the stove top has never been over 600 degrees and when it's really cold out, I can't get it to 600 degrees. I bought the HF meter and my wood tests good and I have great draft.
I look at it this way: The house is not drafty. It's like having a good wind screen around a stove outside. It won't heat up like a stove inside a well insulated box.
It does a whole lot better than the last stove.
Don't you believe this is possible?

I am confused Kenny,
Do you mean you can't get the Liberty over 600F at all or keeping it at 600F for a long burn? I have the Olympic as I am sure you know it is the same as Liberty. I can rip that stove to well over 600F with a good coal bed and only a couple of splits (silver maple, but I finally have some hardwoods to burn.... )
My father in law has been burning his insert (Olympic) for years at 750F with the blower on. I can only dream about getting the secondaries that he gets, but he has been burning for over 20 years so I am 17 years behind. I can get an overnight burn with 3 good sized splits of silver maple, with coals left over in the morning, temps about 200F with the blower on in the morning. I have not stuffed this yet because I want to be awake when I decide to stuff it and watch how she burns.
I guess I have not followed your problem, you have plenty of pipe? OK I guess I am ruining this post and off topic, I will stop ;-) Still learning with the Olympic as I bought it in April

 

[Todd]

How you guys get such long burn times and long heating time? I have FPX 36 and can load maybe 3-4 splits (MAX) in the box, which will give me about ~ 2 hrs. burn time, then down to coals for another hour, then I reload...but if I don't reload, then the fan may go for another hour before it finally cools enough and automatically turns off, then really no more heat. I burn seasoned almond which "they" say is better than oak, but I dunno...

So, do you have bigger box's and can load more? Is it because mine is in insert and not free standing so I just don't have as much surface area exposed? I was also thinking of maybe replacing the firebrick with some kind of soapstone for longer heat, whaddya think about that, or is that even possible?

This is a catalytic fireplace right? Is there a bypass lever for start ups and reloads? Maybe your burning in the by pass mode? If not you could have a high draft problem or some air leaks in your gaskets, door, bypass, or ash pan?

 

[SlyFerret]

You only get 3-4 splits into a firebox that big?

Can you tell us more about your technique? Give us a play-by-play of your typical burn cycle.

-SF

 

[kenny chaos]

I will let other EPA fireplace owners give advice on more heat and longer burns but with a 3.7 cubic foot firebox and re-burn technology if you have wood in the 20% moisture range and decent draft then the way you are burning it is wasting a lot of heat that shouldn't be wasted. That pup should be able to crank out heat for eight hours at least. And I am talking serious, over 400 degree surface temp, heat.

Heck I get a two to three hour burn at over 400 degree heat out of my Jotul F3 with maybe a one cubic foot firebox.

Quite the sales pitch. I must be running my liberty wrong.

It has appeared all along that you are. I can't believe those short burn times you get out of that beast. The only thing I can figure is you are giving it too much primary air that makes a pretty fire but not great heat. Or that you are running at some monster temps to keep the place warm thereby eating up a bunch of wood.

I have been content to sit on the side and watch you think all of the rest of us are all full of BS. :coolgrin:

I don't think anyone is BS'ing (at least not everyone) but if you've really been watching, I've tried to stress the fact that we have R-.08 walls and I do believe that makes all the difference and is never discussed with all the threads about burn times.
Not to steal the thread but if it helps anyone- I shut the primary all the way down and I lose any flame in a matter of minutes. I have played around with all kinds of adjustments on it and as far as monster heat, the stove top has never been over 600 degrees and when it's really cold out, I can't get it to 600 degrees. I bought the HF meter and my wood tests good and I have great draft.
I look at it this way: The house is not drafty. It's like having a good wind screen around a stove outside. It won't heat up like a stove inside a well insulated box.
It does a whole lot better than the last stove.
Don't you believe this is possible?

I am confused Kenny,
Do you mean you can't get the Liberty over 600F at all or keeping it at 600F for a long burn? I have the Olympic as I am sure you know it is the same as Liberty. I can rip that stove to well over 600F with a good coal bed and only a couple of splits (silver maple, but I finally have some hardwoods to burn.... )
My father in law has been burning his insert (Olympic) for years at 750F with the blower on. I can only dream about getting the secondaries that he gets, but he has been burning for over 20 years so I am 17 years behind. I can get an overnight burn with 3 good sized splits of silver maple, with coals left over in the morning, temps about 200F with the blower on in the morning. I have not stuffed this yet because I want to be awake when I decide to stuff it and watch how she burns.
I guess I have not followed your problem, you have plenty of pipe? OK I guess I am ruining this post and off topic, I will stop ;-) Still learning with the Olympic as I bought it in April

Hello Mr. Kennedy- No, the stove top has never been over 600 degrees. I use two thermometers. When the flue hits 600 degrees, I shut down the bypass. I wait to see if the stove top comes up (depends on coal bed and outside temperatures). When the stove top seems to max out, usually about 400 degrees, I start shutting down the air. I can load it up at 9:30 tonight and will have plenty of coals at 6:30 to re-fire.
I'm just not getting anywhere near the temps that some claim but other claims seem very close. I have 15 foot of pipe and draft will get roaring real good. I just gotta believe that it's due to such a small insulation value in the walls.
Thanks for asking. Anyone of you tech-ies or engineers care to offer anything? I'd love to find out that there's a switch I don't know about.
Thanks-

 

[lexybird]

i would think any modern big airtight stove with 20% or les dry wood can be adjusted to burn all night long if you pack it up ,i get greedy and like alot of air to get a hot showy fire to get house up to searing temps but probably not the most effecient on wood use im sure ,try some dense wood like oak or hickory and once its hot and going strong for an hour then damper it down and dont be afraid to pack the logs in their tight

 

[atvdave]

try some dense wood like oak or hickory and once its hot and going strong for an hour then damper it down and dont be afraid to pack the logs in their tight

For what it's worth, thats what I burn 95% of the time. Maybe that's why I get longer burn times on a non-cat.

 

[lexybird]

using green wood is like 90% of most peoples problems with their wooodbruners

 

[stockdoct]

In my experimentation (I'm a newbie to all this) the way to get a long burn is to use enough wood to get to 550-600 degrees (stovetop temp) in a burning hot stove, then open the door, char your face and fill you home with smoke, jamming a couple more splits inside, then shut the air down 75%. Go to bed.

The fire will burn for 3-4 more hours, ending up with coals in the bottom of the stove. As you sleep, the stove-top temp will drop from 550 degrees to around 270 degrees with your blower (on "low", to extend your "burn time" at expense of actually heating your home) putting out air around 100 degrees -- a nice warm breeze, but NOTHING to actually heat a house when the temperature outside is 7 degrees. You will wake up 4 hours later (after your blower has stopped, but you don't know when it did since you were sleeping) to a cool stove, a couple tiny coals buried in the ashes. But they are powerful coals; you put in a piece of newspaper, some kindling, blow a few times and the fire will resume. Add logs in an hour.

Tell yourself you achieved an 8 hr. burn.

 

[daleeper]

How you guys get such long burn times and long heating time? I have FPX 36 and can load maybe 3-4 splits (MAX) in the box, which will give me about ~ 2 hrs. burn time, then down to coals for another hour, then I reload...but if I don't reload, then the fan may go for another hour before it finally cools enough and automatically turns off, then really no more heat. I burn seasoned almond which "they" say is better than oak, but I dunno...

So, do you have bigger box's and can load more? Is it because mine is in insert and not free standing so I just don't have as much surface area exposed? I was also thinking of maybe replacing the firebrick with some kind of soapstone for longer heat, whaddya think about that, or is that even possible?

What happened to FPX Dude? You still around?

I'm wondering if you are using the cat properly, or even using the cat. Please tell us how you are running this insert, and how it is installed. There are many things going on here that we need to know if we are able to help you. Tell us how "seasoned" the almond is, how big and insulated the house or area you are trying to heat is. It looks like that insert should burn longer than what you are getting, but it could be any number of issues preventing this from happening.

 

[drewboy]

A big, fat, round in the back of the firebox (or two) in a load seems to be the best
way for me to have substantial coals for a morning re-light and my small firebox can
be a challenge for long burns.

 

[drdoct]

For me, dry wood is the key and lots of it. I'll load it completely running the logs North to South so I can see every crack. I try to use at least 3 or 4 big square splits that are like 6X6 or bigger. Then jam lots of little splits in all the holes. Close my bypass damper (because the stove is already 400 or so when I reload), keep the primary air open and the door cracked. This creates a mini blast furnace within a few minutes. I keep it like this until the box gets around 500 or so and then close the door. Soon as I close the door the secondary lights up across the top completely and then close up the primary about halfway. And then I check out Hearth.com to see what's going on. After about 10-15 minutes The fire is going nice and hot and pushing 600. Then I push the damper all the way closed and then pull it out just a tad. I'm not sure how open it is, but probably 1" or so. Then I put the blower from halfway to almost all the way slow. Then go to bed. My stove will stay +500 for 4 hours or so and hover at +300 until I reload at 7am which makes it around 8 hours worth of burn. When I reload in the morning there is at least 1 big log shaped coal and a whole bed. Rake those puppies to the front and throw on the pallet kindling and leave the door cracked with the bypass damper open (it keeps the smoke out of the house) and it's going within a minute or so. Just say to yourself... dry wood dry wood dry wood.

 

[dvellone]

Differing density of hardwoods will make a big change in burn times - heat output too. I'm burning cherry and red maple when the outside temps are higher and overnight burns aren't necessary, and I burn hard maple and beech or yellow birch when it's deep cold and I want longer burns.

 

[jadm]

No solution for you. Just a comment.

I, too, get frustrated trying to get a 'formula' for longer burn times. I just found this site last winter so I have read a lot but still have a lot to learn! I know that some here leave their stoves for 8 hours while some fiddle around with theirs every few hours. Some load to the max every reload and some throw a split in at a time.

In other words, what I have surmised is that people here have found what works for them through experimentation with their stoves/inserts. I continue to try out things I read here to see what will work for me. Some days things burn great. Some days not so great. Lots of variables to deal with that I never considered before. I figure in about 5 years I will be able to chime in with a solution...until then I continue to experiment.

Good Luck