How hot should the stove be?

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FiremanBob

New Member
Nov 18, 2007
37
RI
My Russo stove is easy to keep at 300-325F as measured by thermometer attached to the stove top. But it's a challenge to get it to reach 400, and I don't see any signs of secondary burn. How hot should I try to get the stove, and what temperature is best to maintain?

I think I haven't yet found the right balance of air supply and damper position.
 
I like to run about 600-700 degree stove top temps. I get a good secondary burn @ that. Your stove might be different, though.
 
650-750 here, then tapers down to 550 for a couple hours then slowly drops. The Summit seams to have a sweet spot of 650-700 ish
300's seams awfully low. Prolly also the reason your not achieving secondary burn. Check for hissing, foaming splits end when burning, sounds like you have wet wood.
 
My stove tends to cruise at around 650, and will go up to about 750 on an average full charge burn.

Based upon numerous reports posted here, the Pacific Energy Summit, in black, will run at approximately 1400-1600, however in the famous Whorehouse Red paint color it will operate at around 2700, whilst burning a split or two. They are very satisfactory stoves, loved by all. :)

-- Mike
 
Corie said:
I'm not aware of a Russo stove that had a secondary burn system.

I was thinking the same thing... All that I have seen are old pre-epa stoves.
 
Last night and today I made a point of keeping the box well filled with wood and got up to 500 fairly quickly, sustaining 400 for a couple of hours thereafter.

Don't know if it makes a difference, but I'm measuring the temperature with the blower running (it's on constantly if the temp is above 200, shuts off below that). I imagine that would lower the stovetop temp even though inside the firebox it's ok.

For next year I'll look for an EPA stove with a blower. I'd like to be as fuel-efficient as possible since I don't have a free source of wood.
 
Hey fireman...This only applies if your stove looks like mine....I used to have a Russo stove pictured here. When I moved into my house in 2002 the stove was a mess. I rebuilt it with new gaskets ect.....and the only way to fire it hot was to make sure the firebricks on the bottom (over the shaker grate) had spaces between them. I easily got 400-500 after doing that. And you have to use a fire poker now and then to keep those spaces clean. Also, I had to close the rear damper about 60%. There really is no secondary burn as my model had a really...really.... poor excuse for a baffle. The baffle would fall down if hit with a log or poker by mistake.

Hope this helps
WoodButcher
 

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Thanks, woodbutcher. It looks similar, but I don't have bricks on the bottom center portion. It's a steel plate with 6 small round holes for the air. I have to poke a little, usually once an hour, to keep those holes clear or it goes into smolder mode. I'm running the rear damper about 80% closed once the stove heats up after first started, and the intake air 3/4 to full open.
 
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