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How much can I REALLY tow with a garden tractor?

Post in 'The Gear' started by Yarzy, Jun 30, 2011.

  1. gzecc

    gzecc Minister of Fire

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    I think he should look at all his options. He has a true garden tractor and should be able to use it to its full potential. especially if the price is close to an alternative and the parts are available. Most tractors of this size don't have a 3 point option.

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  2. Jags

    Jags Moderate Moderator Staff Member

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    Could you possibly link to the 3 point you are in reference to?
  3. gzecc

    gzecc Minister of Fire

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  4. Jags

    Jags Moderate Moderator Staff Member

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    I thought that was what you were talking about. Anything more than about 250 pounds and it will simply lift the front end off of the ground. I have a buddy with one of those (actually had) he had a rototiller on it. If you lift the tiller up, I can put my hand on the tiller and lift the front wheels off of the ground.
  5. lukem

    lukem Minister of Fire

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    Unless he has 3pt implements I don't see getting the 3pt hitch operational as a priority. The only place that 3pt becomes of real value without implements is unhooking a loaded trailer...lift it up...put something under the tongue...and let it down.

    I'd look to add a 2" ball higher up as Jags suggested and retain the pin hitch for just that...pin hitch trailers.

    It's the dude's first tractor...walk before you run (no offense to the OP ;em).
    Jags likes this.
  6. Machria

    Machria Minister of Fire

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    Symptons: At high revs, it backfires once in a while with some flames out the muffler. With a load, it gets bogged down and will stall if you don't back off the load. And of course that would be normall with a big load, but I'm talking about 6" of some wet snow. I would think it could handle that better. The carb looks to have a bunch of adjustment screws on it, and it doesn't look like it is in the best shape (things a bit loose, jiggling around on it). Everythiong else looks pretty good on it, just needs cleaned up and tiddy up the wiring a bit. But the carb scares me a bit (scares me = I don't want to turn the wrong screw and make it worse....).

    Fresh fuel, filters, oil, plug, and sea foam cleaner will be #1 and we shall see how it goes. The fuel lines all looked fine. Points! Or, I guess in this case point (singular). Man, I forgot about those! Been a while since I worked on an old motor with "points"!
  7. Machria

    Machria Minister of Fire

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    No offense taken. I'm with ya! I'd actually even back off walking at this point, lets CRAWL first! ;)
  8. Jags

    Jags Moderate Moderator Staff Member

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    Try the seafoam trick before you start doing anything else. One of the things that can happen with these old motors is that they start to build carbon on the piston and head. That carbon will heat up and can per-detonate the fuel causing a backfire. Seafoam will help burn off that carbon.

    The carb should only have 3 adjustment screws. One for idle speed. One for air and one for fuel.
  9. lukem

    lukem Minister of Fire

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    Leave the carb alone for now. Here's my theory. You are not getting good combustion at high RPMs because of bad fuel, not enough spark, or not enough air...or all 3...this drops the RPM...then the governer kicks in...dumps in a bunch of fuel and it combusts and causes the backfire. That would explain any surging and lack of power too.
    Jags likes this.
  10. Machria

    Machria Minister of Fire

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    The backfiring was not occuring under load, just idling. If I pull the throttle up almost all the way, it would run strong and every 4 or 5 seconds backfire a good one.

    Oh, the other thing is the throttle would not stay out, it creeps pretty fast back in. I know that's probably something with the cable.....

    Here's a pic of under the hood:

    Attached Files:

  11. Jags

    Jags Moderate Moderator Staff Member

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    Yeah, kinda lends itself to the carbon ignition thingy.
  12. gzecc

    gzecc Minister of Fire

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    I apologize, I don't think it has points. Very surprised for an engine of that age.
  13. Jags

    Jags Moderate Moderator Staff Member

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    If it does, it will be to the bottom of the block and to the left side of the carb, under a rounded tin cover.
  14. gzecc

    gzecc Minister of Fire

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  15. Jags

    Jags Moderate Moderator Staff Member

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    For the record - a bad exhaust valve can also have the same results.

    From manual - points gap .020
  16. gzecc

    gzecc Minister of Fire

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    Jags likes this.
  17. Machria

    Machria Minister of Fire

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    Well, one or both of you need to get over here and get busy! :)
  18. Jags

    Jags Moderate Moderator Staff Member

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    You can't afford my rates.>>
  19. MasterMech

    MasterMech Guest

    The travel bill alone would be pretty steep. <>

    How does this thing idle? You mention it's weak under load, I'd give the High Speed adjustment a touch (like 1/4 turn out/CC) and see if it's better/worse.

    There is a pretty good following for rebuilding those Walbro/Kohler Carbs even if the throttle/choke bushings are worn out. A lot of the GT pulling tractor forums have some "specialists" that may be able to help you out if your willing to pull the carb and send it to them.

    www.mytractorforum.com is another good one for garden tractors, especially the old ones.
  20. Machria

    Machria Minister of Fire

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    Starts and Idles fine. When cold, a bit of choke gets it started with a little throttle, then throttle back to idle and kill the choke after 10 seconds and it idles fine. Reading he service manual to the motor now (link posted above by gzecc, thanks!) and I see what the carb is all about. Will give it a whirl tonight.
  21. MasterMech

    MasterMech Guest

    Definitely give the H speed a tweak and see what happens.
  22. Flatbedford

    Flatbedford Minister of Fire

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    Nice tractor. Looks like a good old beast! Congratulations. Your tractor comes from back when stuff was made to last forever. My Cubs have the same 14 hp Kohler. It is very easy to work on. I had one mine out and apart over the summer. The carb can be rebuilt in about an hour if you go slowly. The kit should be around $15. I found with both the somewhat neglected tractors that I have bought and revived that the more you run it, the better it runs. Get some fresh fuel through it, and let it run for a while, get warm, and burn all the crap out of it.
  23. Machria

    Machria Minister of Fire

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    Changed oil, plug, fresh fuel and heavy dose of Seafoam, cleaned air filter (was a mess!), WD40.... and she is running much better already.tweeked that high screw on carb a bit, seem to have gotten rid of backfire except if I go quickly from full blast throttle to a low setting, it willbackfire on the way down. This might be normal for this motor?

    The only problem I have left is the throttle won't stay where I put it. It gets pulled back in. So I have to hold it in place or it will go back to idle. Couldn't figure that out... It's acting like it is spring loaded.
  24. MasterMech

    MasterMech Guest

    Generally indicates a rich running condition or setting on the L screw. I'd try turning in the L screw a tad (like 1/8 th of a turn) and see if that calms the backfire a bit, if not, it's not hurting anything.
  25. Machria

    Machria Minister of Fire

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    Will try it, but always nervouse adjusting carbs, I'm afraid I'll just make it worse and not be able to get back to what/where it was.

    On another note, what kind of Hydroloc oil am I supposed to use in the Hydro? Can't seem to find it anywhere in any of the manuals I downloaded??

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