Post in 'The Gear' started by Yarzy, Jun 30, 2011.
Nice looking wheelhorse. Machria your in luck!
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HEY I think I can help a little here 2things !) ignition
switch has multi position ,you need to be in proper pos to get juice to the clutch & lights ,lighter
2) Throttle is a twist to lock ,pull to desired setting then twist to lock ( hopefully it's secure in dash or you will need to remove dash panel to resecure if it rotates while your trying lock)
3) if you had hyd. right side lever needs to be engaged to operate
pm me if I can help
Wow Jack, yours looks like it's brand new! Beauty! Thanks for the help, but I got all those figured out already: #1 & 3, I blew the 30amp fuse trying the cig lighter, fixed that. #2 Didn't know the throttle was twist lock, but found that in the manual I downloaded and it's working fine.
Questions for you: Can you pull all that wood on that trailer in picture? If so, awesome, that's what I'm looking to eventially do with it in addtion to useing it as a snowblower.
Second question is, do you have space to mount the front attachments (snowblower, blade...) with that geni you have installed? I want to mount a geni also, but I don't want to kill the ability to use the snowblower.
After a quick tune up (changed engine oil and hydro oil, fresh fuel, seafoam, new plug, changed fuel lines, new fuel filter, it's running decent. But it needs some carb love, that I don't have the know-how for. I want to find somebody to take it apart and rebuild it. Also, I noticed it's dripping hydro fluid, somewhere from around or above the front lift hydrolic cylander (located behind motor underneath). I'll have to take some things off/apart to see where it is leaking.
oh, one more think guys. I figured out I have the Battery/Breakerless version of the K321s motor. The ignition coil matches the one pictured in that section of the service manual. So my plug gap is .035".
Sounds like you've been busy. If you can introduce seafoam into the carb and let it sit overnight, it will work wonders. You can do it if you have very little gas in the tank.
I think the inside of the carb at this point is fine. It's the linkages, springs, govenor.... that is all very dirty, sticky, miss set. Pic is worth a thousand words.
Oh, I think I need to replace the ignition coil (Breakerless). It is $200! Yikes! It is shows a bit low on the ohms test (tested at 10.5k, supposed to be 11.5k, and it is showing continuity between the chassis and the ignition switch wire (which makes me wonder how it is working at all?).
Unfortunately I have no experience with this motor. 200 beans is a lot to invest. Is that new, used or rebuilt? Especially if your not sure.
My brother bought this new in 73
If I would have been watching this thread earlier I think I could have saved you a little frustration
it's to bad you don't have the 3 pt. I pull my log splitter with mine, it lines up great & No hands lifting
I just love the way this thing comes apart ,almost fun to work on
amswered a couple questions up there in the blue ,didn't get it right again
You'll be switching attachments fairly often I'm sure but that's all part of "the experience".
With the ign key on or off? Try it with the key on.
Well, then take the SHORT drive on over to beautiful Long Island and come have some "FUN"! I'll supply the $ abd beer!
I wouldn't think that would make a difference? but I'll give it a whirl. Got thinking about this last night, how is measuring cont. from the ignition swith WIRE to the ignition coil bracket (basicaly chassis ground) checking anythng on the coil? Doesn't even make sense....
The wire is grounded to the chassis via the ignition switch. With the wire removed or the key on, there should be no continuity to ground on that wire. (Any safety switches may come into play here too.) There is NEVER any power supplied to the coil via that wire, when the wire is grounded, that kills the spark.
Somebody was saying they wished they had a remote switch for the Tractor or ATV mounted winch. Here ya go, $17 bucks:
Installed a custom 2" hitch receiver on my horse, and had them add a plate for a winch to be installed on. Got it installed and pulled a huge tree out of the woods over the weekend. Way coool!
Looking good. Now get that thing dirty.
I wouldn't skid with that winch any more than you have to unless it has a manual brake. You'll wear out the auto break pretty quick if it is holding all the weight.
Correct, winches like that aren't made to be pulled on. Will destroy it very quickly.
huh? No, I'm pulling the log out of the brush with the electric winch into an open area. Then I can cut it up and split it and haul it out in a cart, or unhook the tree from the winch, and hook it to the hitch ball and "skid" it out of the woods.
I can also use the winch to help pull the tractor out if it gets stuck in mud/snow.....
Don't drag logs while hooked to winch any further than you have to. Your winch will thank you.
Maybe I'm not wording this correctly. What I'm trying to say is, the WINCH is pulling the logs, not the tractor. When the tractor is doing the pulling, the log will be hooked to the hitch ball, not thw winch. Better?
Better. Originally is sounded like your winch was used while the tractor was in motion.
Looks good! I guess the old tractor is working good for you now.
Owe, it's working great! Love it, should of bought it years ago. But it still does need some work on the linkages, I'm going to try and get somebody to have a look at it.
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