How Sharp can you get your chains with a hand file?

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richg

Minister of Fire
Nov 20, 2005
888
Gang,

Here's a general question. How sharp can you get your chains using only a hand file and raker depth guide? The reason I ask is that I recently scrounged an Irene-downed 30-inch oak trunk, and had put a new chain on my MS441 before going at it. The saw went through the tree like cr@p through a goose. When the chain dulls, I have the right size files and do my best to use the correct angle, same number of strokes per tooth, etc, but just can't get them back to "like new" sharpness. I have a Dremel attachment but those things get very mixed reviews. If I gotta take them in for a professional sharpening, so be it, what can you guys do with hand files? Am I doing something wrong, or is a hand file just not up to the task of a bench sharpener? Any advice would be appreciated, thanks.
 
I sharpen by hand, & have for years. I can usually get a chain sharp very quickly & they cut very well. I learned the motion using a file guide, & paid close attention to what a new chain looked & felt like. It takes a bit of time, but is well worth it. The first chains I did were hit & miss, but with a little practice you can make a chain cut like new in no time. Also pay careful attention to raker height. Even if the cutters are sharp the teeth won't bite if the rakers are not filed properly as well. A C
 
Sharp!

I sharpen with one of the $7 or so file guides that prevents the file from dropping to deep into the gullet area. I only hit eac tooth a stroke or two, but I sharpen every tank or two of fuel. I take down the rakers a couple strokes every 5 tanks of so. My chains cut like new until I hit a rock or metal burried in a tree. Only then might they get sharpened at a shop.

I think practice is the key along with not waiting for the chan to get really bad.

ATB,
Mike
 
Race chains are built with files!
 
All good advice. For me, using a vise, using gloves, using just enough upward pressure, working near the tip where the chain is more stable, using clean quality files, filing the rakers down to spec, and inspecting the work with a magnifying lens all helped get me to where I'm happy with my sharpening jobs.
 
Learn to file without a gauge so that way if you need to touch up in the woods you don't need anything except the file. File a bit more often rather than waiting for the thing to really get dull. If you are right handed, you might have to apply more pressure with your left hand. If left handed, then the right side might need the extra. One can get good with a bit of practice but like so many things, it does take some practice.

On the dremel, I sharpened chains for many, many moons and never had a problem....except my hands no longer work as good as they used to and it hurts to file. So, a few years ago I bought the dremel and love it. Yes, at first I did burn a tooth or too but that is all it took to teach me a lesson. Now I can sharpen as well with the dremel as with the file but still have to do the rakers by hand, but that is pretty easy. The key though to using the dremel is to not hold that thing on the tooth very long else you'll burn the chain.

btw, I had clamps on the dremel cord so I could clamp onto the atv battery. With the new atv I had to change the end to a dc plug in. Works like a charm and I just sit the saw on the rear of the atv most of the time and sharpen there. It is quick and easy.

btw, I think I sharpened my first saw chain about 57 years ago.
 
I have had pretty good results filing free hand as long as the chain is still in pretty good shape and I could match the factory edge. I bought the a Stihl filing kit a couple years ago after I really messed up a chain and couldn't fix it with the file alone. I was able to bring that chain back to new condition. Now I use it all the time. The kits also include a file and gauge for the rakers in a nice little pouch. A well spent ~$20 IMO.


StihlFillingKit-medium.jpg
 
No joy here with file-only or basic file guide. Just couldn't maintain angles consistently. (I'm picky.)

Then tried Granberg's clamp-on guide, about 40 yrs. ago. Still working great for me. Couple strokes/cutter and like razors. Files last loooong time too.
 
As sharp as any grinding wheel.Started out years ago using Granberg file guide,soon graduated to free hand.Dad taught me well.

Every other tank of fuel depending on type of wood,conditions etc I give them 2-3 strokes with the file.Every 3-4 sharpenings I knock the rakers down a scoch also.
 
I do all but the worst chains by file only, usually on the job site when it is least convenient. I have done enough to know by looking if I can bring it back or just change it out.
 
smokinjay said:
Race chains are built with files!

Nothing gets them sharper than hand filing. Not even a bench grinder. Bench grinders are for restoring damaged chains or resetting proper angles to everything.

+1 on Stihl's chain filing kits. I use them in the field with a stump vise or someone to hold the saw. I also usually carry at least 2 x-tra chains to swap out if I need.

+1 on the how-to videos on Stihl's website. They are informative and easy to understand. You'll be hard pressed to find better information anywhere else.
 
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