How to remove catalyst chamber from Jotul Firelight 12?

Well, the title says it all! I just bought a jotul firelight 12 that was not cared for very carefully by its previous owner. From the parts diagram I found on other threads on this forum, I've deduced that my catalyst chamber is severely modified. I don't mind putting money into this stove as I got a fine deal on it so I'm going to buy a new catalyst chamber.

I understand that the top if this stove comes off with a couple bolts but does this gain me access to the top of this catalyst chamber and it simply slides out vertically?

Joful, I've read many of your posts and you seem to understand the workings of this stove fairly well. Hope you can help me refurbish this nice stove!

In other news, I've bought a new cat and left door glass. I'm going to buy new gaskets all around and replace them. This is the second stove I regasketed. The first was my morso 1125.

Thanks!!

I can definitely help with this part of it. One other user has done an even more complete restoration this summer, but the cat chamber is relatively easy.

Referencing this diagram and parts list:
http://www.woodmanspartsplus.com/68/catalogs/Wood-and-Coal-Stove-Manufacturers-Cross-Reference.html
http://rs.woodmanspartsplus.com/company_41/Firelight12_PartsList.pdf

- Remove rear burn plate covering cat chamber, cat chamber cover and bottom, and catalyst.
- Remove left and right burn plates (they just lift out thru the front door).
- Remove the two screws on the hanger strap under the top-load door. Be VERY careful the top load door is supported (flue pipe works well) when you do this, as the cast hinges WILL BREAK if the lid is allowed to flop over backwards. After removed, set the lid back down.
- Remove the two bolts which hold the top on. Looking in thru the front door, you'll find these high on either side of the firebox, running vertically up into the lid.
- Get a blanket or something ready to set the top down on. It's not heavy, but you don't want to be fiddling around looking for a place to set it while you're holding it.
- Lift top off and set it aside. Again, pay attention to not letting top load door flop open / break off.
(This is where my memory may be a little hazy...)
- Remove bolt on either side of bypass door. I believe the entire bypass door assembly (frame and door together?) might lift out as one unit. Can't remember for sure, though.
- Remove four bolts holding inner back plate (big cast iron plate with pretty array of holes), and lift plate out of stove.
- Slide cat chamber forward, and then lift out of the top of the stove.

Re-assembly is in reverse order. You owe it to yourself to replace all of the gaskets when you reassemble. I believe the big rear gasket that goes behind the inner back plate is 1/4", but double check that. Since this gasket is not typically cemented, you can just hold it in place with several small pieces of masking tape, when you reset the inner back plate. Others have used small dabs of cement in the corners, but I think that is more risky. Also, replace your damper door gasket while it's out of the stove (much easier than in the stove). Getting the right amount of compression of the inner back plate gasket and the gasket behind the damper frame is what gets the damper door rod tension right.

Good luck! Let us know how it goes.

Good luck. Joful can definitely help you out.

But, this is another example of how the general public is awful when it comes to maintaining catalytic stoves.

Awesome write-up. I'll be sure to expand on your instruction and post many pictures. I have the stove moved on it's tile pad in the basement now and my flue liner is on my front porch!

Keep looking here.

Bentrice, have you made any progress? I realize it's been a few months but you seem to have just disappeared. I hope the replacement went well. Please update us on your experience.

Thanks!