How would you install this insert?

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Dano33

New Member
Sep 2, 2015
5
Virginia
I am in the process of choosing an insert for my fireplace and so far, it looks like the Enviro Boston 1700 is the winner.

The problem I see getting this insert installed is that my fireplace opening is arched, and the bricks around the arch protrude about 3/4 of an inch from the wall which will prevent the surround from fitting flush with my fireplace.

I would like for this insert and surround to sit flush with the fireplace so I was wondering what could be done to avoid altering the bricks that are currently in place.

Any suggestions?
 

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You either have to modify the brick or the surround is probably a much better option
 
You either have to modify the brick or the surround is probably a much better option

I am leaning more towards modifying the surround as i would hate to tear up the bricks. According to Enviro, the Boston surround is 30.75 inches tall, and the highest part of my arch is 30.5, so it would be cutting it really close if I were to alter the brick. Width wise I have plenty of room. It seems like I would need to create some kind of backing plate that the surround would mount to, however I am not sure how good that would look.
 
Have you considered installing a free standing stove in front of the fireplace, instead. I see in your photo you have a brick hearth at floor level, it looks like, so that could be a solution. You can see in my avatar that I did this on a raised hearth,.
 
Have you considered installing a free standing stove in front of the fireplace, instead. I see in your photo you have a brick hearth at floor level, it looks like, so that could be a solution. You can see in my avatar that I did this on a raised hearth,.
I would really like to stick with an insert, so I will try to rule out all my options before looking at an alternative. I did check out your stove and do like the way it looks. We have a raised hearth as well, so that could be an option.
 

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You could go to your local metalworks shop and ask if they can make a custom surround for your fireplace that fits the arch. Maybe Enviro will give you a little rebate when not ordering the surround with the rest.
 
I was thinking the same as Grisu. Possibly consider a custom shroud that works best with your fireplace and whichever insert you go with. Do you have any local metal shop that you know of?
 
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I don't know how all manufactures list their stoves, but I bought an Enviro Cabello last year and it was the first year the local dealer was selling this brand. Come to find out they forgot to order the surround because stove and surround are seperate parts. So if you did have custom surround made you wouldn't have to pay for the one from Enviro, but on the other hand Enviro has some nice looking surrounds.
 
I would try the metal shop route. See if they can make a backer plate with a return that can sit over the brick and give the surround something flat to rest on.
 
I had a custom surround made for my Jotul C350. My opening was too wide for the extended surround that I could buy so the stove dealer worked with a local company to make me a bigger surround. They used the factory extended surround to figure out how to fab the hooks that attached it to the stove. I think it cost me $150. Yours is a little bit more complex, but still seems quite doable for a fab shop.

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I had a custom surround made for my Jotul C350. My opening was too wide for the extended surround that I could buy so the stove dealer worked with a local company to make me a bigger surround. They used the factory extended surround to figure out how to fab the hooks that attached it to the stove. I think it cost me $150. Yours is a little bit more complex, but still seems quite doable for a fab shop.
Wow great looking install RSNovi.
 
Dano, Great choice for a heater. Your installer can help accommodate the install to look proper. Just remember good dry seasoned wood.
 
Thanks for the feedback. I have the installer coming out on Sunday to get a better idea as to what can be done. One of the reasons why I chose the Boston is due to the deign of the surround, so I would like to be able to use it.

I took some more measurements last night and made a template of the surround based on Enviro's numbers, at it looks like the top of the surround will be just a bit short, even if I shave the bricks. That said, I am thinking of constructing a C shaped frame out of 1.5 x 3/4 inch thick rectangular steel stock. The frame would rest over the arch and would extend down the sides. Seeing that it is 3/4 thick, it would sit flush with the bricks that stick out and provide a flush base for the surround to slide against. I can do the welding myself and have the welding equipment on hand, and the metal would be cheap so I would only need to paint it flat black with high temp paint and I believe I should be good to go.

If the installer comes up with any other ideas, I will certainly take those into consideration.
 
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I'm in a similar predicament with a more severe arch in front of my prefab. The installers I've been talking to said it's definitely a custom job, but they also said it's fairly common. I'm pretty much limited to a jotul c350 or lopi small hybrid fyre flush without having to knock out some bricks.
 
I'm in a similar predicament with a more severe arch in front of my prefab. The installers I've been talking to said it's definitely a custom job, but they also said it's fairly common. I'm pretty much limited to a jotul c350 or lopi small hybrid fyre flush without having to knock out some bricks.
I was told the same thing in regards to it being common. Funny thing is I have spoken with 2 installers and one said shave the bricks and the other said to do it only as a last resort. Seeing that I would rather preserve the fireplace as is, I am leaning towards a custom surround. I have a tig and mig welder, so I may as well put them to work.
 
I'm in a similar predicament with a more severe arch in front of my prefab. The installers I've been talking to said it's definitely a custom job, but they also said it's fairly common. I'm pretty much limited to a jotul c350 or lopi small hybrid fyre flush without having to knock out some bricks.
If it is a prefab regardless of the other issues you absolutely cant remove any brick
 
Dano, something worth mentioning. I keep my surround about 3/4" off of the brick on my fireplace. I like to allow whatever heat is trapped inside the fireplace to flow out into the room. It's hardly noticeable. This was from Christmas. The unit you are buying has a much nicer surround.
10888885_10152586704012157_8737510054407371478_n.jpg
 
I am wondering whether that is even permitted or if the original builder may not have gone overboard. Do you have a manual for the fireplace? Quite a few units have air vents on the sides to allow air convection around the firebox for cooling.
 
I am wondering whether that is even permitted or if the original builder may not have gone overboard. Do you have a manual for the fireplace? Quite a few units have air vents on the sides to allow air convection around the firebox for cooling.

I was wondering that, too. The fireplace came with the house, and I have no manual. I was curious if the arch actually affected the draft...it was never great. Since it's an interior fireplace, I planned to drill some exploratory holes in the wall behind it to see what all is going on. My ultimate plan was to put down a layer of firebrick on the floor of the unit and line with walls with insulation. Even after that, I should still have room to angle in a Lopi small hybrid fyre flush and run an 6" insulated SS liner all the way to the top. At least, that's the plan...
 
The problem is not just the draft of the fireplace but whether it was installed safely or not. Around the firebox should be an additional steel box with an airspace between the two. Through vents often on the bottom and the top air can move between those two boxes to keep the outside cool. See this scheme:
zero-clearance-fireplace.jpg

That cooling effect makes it possible to install the unit with "zero clearance". Maybe yours has those vents in a different location (sometimes connected to the outside) but without knowing the model and having a manual it is hard to say.

Generally it is not the best idea to install an insert in a prefab fireplace but when it is unclear whether it has been installed correctly I would advise against it. Did a chimney sweep ever inspect it? And have you thought about tearing everything out and installing a nice and larger stove there?
 
This fireplace might be a heatform. If so it is not a zero-clearance unit. Your sweep can tell you that pretty quickly. What type and size chimney is on it?
 
The problem is not just the draft of the fireplace but whether it was installed safely or not. Around the firebox should be an additional steel box with an airspace between the two. Through vents often on the bottom and the top air can move between those two boxes to keep the outside cool. See this scheme:
zero-clearance-fireplace.jpg

That cooling effect makes it possible to install the unit with "zero clearance". Maybe yours has those vents in a different location (sometimes connected to the outside) but without knowing the model and having a manual it is hard to say.

Generally it is not the best idea to install an insert in a prefab fireplace but when it is unclear whether it has been installed correctly I would advise against it. Did a chimney sweep ever inspect it? And have you thought about tearing everything out and installing a nice and larger stove there?

Yeah, I've had two different guys do the cleaning and inspections over the years, and they never said anything about it. After we take a look behind the back wall and see what's going on, we'll have a better idea on how to move forward. My wife wants a good excuse to switch to gas, anyway. ;)
 
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