Huskee 22 /general splitter tips?

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Another thing I do that makes manuevering the splitter with an ATV or UTV real easy is put a hitch ball on the front of the machine.

MnDave
 
All Good ideas!

I also discovered not splitting not quite all the way through is good on redoak, and you look cool throwing the whole log in the truck where it splits into 4 pieces as it hits, or just rip a bit when stacking. Had a few handy 2-3 and 4 "packs" going.
 
Here's another little splitter trick that I am sure many know but will put out there anyways.

On rounds that are around 7 to 9 inches in diameter that you want to make 4 splits from you can reduce the number of cycles from 3 to 2.

After the first cycle just keep the splits on the beam and rotate them 90 degrees.

I used to split smaller beause I wanted it to dry better. Now I plan on cutting a fews years ahead and not splitting so small (burns too fast).

Just realized that this is similar to osagebows post above.

MnDave
 
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All Good ideas!

I also discovered not splitting not quite all the way through is good on redoak, and you look cool throwing the whole log in the truck where it splits into 4 pieces as it hits, or just rip a bit when stacking. Had a few handy 2-3 and 4 "packs" going.

The right log and you can do a sixxer. >>
 
All Good ideas!

I also discovered not splitting not quite all the way through is good on redoak, and you look cool throwing the whole log in the truck where it splits into 4 pieces as it hits, or just rip a bit when stacking. Had a few handy 2-3 and 4 "packs" going.

That reminds me of a neighbor who asked if I could split some wood for him. He didn't have much and it was all red oak. Neither he nor his wife had ever seen a hydraulic splitter and the rounds weren't too big so I did one of those, "Hold my beer," things and went to splitting. Two strikes and not very far into the rounds and I threw them 4 splits. I did 4 really fast and both were standing there with their eyes and mouths wide open. They never dreamed it could be that fast or even that easy. I got a nice chuckle out of it.
 
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I just got this splitter. I haven't put fuel in it yet. The only thing I've done so far is put the handle on. (For some reason, TSC doesn't install that, but rather send you home with it in a bag.) Anyways...after installing it with the engine obviously off, pulling the handle down and releasing it, it returns to neutral position as expected. However, if I push the handle up, it "sticks" in that position. Is this normal? Again, I haven't fueled it up, so this behavior is exhibited while it's off. I've used hydraulic splitters many times, but I've never owned one, so this thread has been quite helpful, but I don't remember the handle "sticking" in the up position before.
 
When I pull mine back, after the ram returns, it snaps back to the middle position automatically....never tried it while not running
 
I just got this splitter. I haven't put fuel in it yet. The only thing I've done so far is put the handle on. (For some reason, TSC doesn't install that, but rather send you home with it in a bag.) Anyways...after installing it with the engine obviously off, pulling the handle down and releasing it, it returns to neutral position as expected. However, if I push the handle up, it "sticks" in that position. Is this normal? Again, I haven't fueled it up, so this behavior is exhibited while it's off. I've used hydraulic splitters many times, but I've never owned one, so this thread has been quite helpful, but I don't remember the handle "sticking" in the up position before.
Yes normal for the handle to stick in the up position. That is the auto return, allows the ram to retract all the way while you grab the next log to split.

TSC put everything together on mine, filled with fuel and hydro oil as well. Guy even mentioned how he learned a while ago to attached the hoses in the vertical position. Otherwise the hoses curl up and end up in the way when you switch to vertical splitting
 
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Yes normal for the handle to stick in the up position. That is the auto return, allows the ram to retract all the way while you grab the next log to split...
So that's auto return. I'm just vaguely recalling an old splitter I used to use for the annual hog killin's. In the vertical position, you'd push the lever down to split the log, then simply let go, and the ram would retract automatically. The only time you would push the lever upward would be to bring the ram up faster.

Another question (sorry to hijack, but props to the OP for starting the general questions thread specific to the Huskee): I understand I may need to add a little hydraulic oil after a few cycles. Currently it's reading at the upper end of the "OK" range on the dipstick. The manual calls for universal AW 32 or 46, or transmission fluid. The guy at TSC said they just used "regular hydraulic oil". I have some hydraulic oil from Walmart, "Super Tech R&O ANTI-WEAR HYDRAULIC OIL." It claims to be for "general purpose" with applications including "log splitters." However, I can't find "AW 32 or 46" anywhere on the container.
 
So that's auto return. I'm just vaguely recalling an old splitter I used to use for the annual hog killin's. In the vertical position, you'd push the lever down to split the log, then simply let go, and the ram would retract automatically. The only time you would push the lever upward would be to bring the ram up faster.

Another question (sorry to hijack, but props to the OP for starting the general questions thread specific to the Huskee): I understand I may need to add a little hydraulic oil after a few cycles. Currently it's reading at the upper end of the "OK" range on the dipstick. The manual calls for universal AW 32 or 46, or transmission fluid. The guy at TSC said they just used "regular hydraulic oil". I have some hydraulic oil from Walmart, "Super Tech R&O ANTI-WEAR HYDRAULIC OIL." It claims to be for "general purpose" with applications including "log splitters." However, I can't find "AW 32 or 46" anywhere on the container.
I think Napa sells the AW32 and AW46.
 
The manual calls for universal AW 32 or 46, or transmission fluid. The guy at TSC said they just used "regular hydraulic oil". I have some hydraulic oil from Walmart, "Super Tech R&O ANTI-WEAR HYDRAULIC OIL." It claims to be for "general purpose" with applications including "log splitters." However, I can't find "AW 32 or 46" anywhere on the container.

AW 32 = Anti-Wear 32, same for 46. Dexron III ATF or Universal Tractor Transmission Oil will work just as well. Your Super Tech will be fine as well.
 
Good luck with the new splitter. I run a Troy Built 27 ton. I'm happy with it so far. When I brought it home I started with all the nasty knotted Y shaped stuff that had been tossed aside from recent seasons. It ate through all of it. Have fun!!!
 
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So that's auto return. I'm just vaguely recalling an old splitter I used to use for the annual hog killin's. In the vertical position, you'd push the lever down to split the log, then simply let go, and the ram would retract automatically. The only time you would push the lever upward would be to bring the ram up faster.

Another question (sorry to hijack, but props to the OP for starting the general questions thread specific to the Huskee): I understand I may need to add a little hydraulic oil after a few cycles. Currently it's reading at the upper end of the "OK" range on the dipstick. The manual calls for universal AW 32 or 46, or transmission fluid. The guy at TSC said they just used "regular hydraulic oil". I have some hydraulic oil from Walmart, "Super Tech R&O ANTI-WEAR HYDRAULIC OIL." It claims to be for "general purpose" with applications including "log splitters." However, I can't find "AW 32 or 46" anywhere on the container.


Thanks for the props, no HJack worries - I keep learnin' more on here, that's what it's all about.

But I gotta ask...when you kill a hog with a splitter, I assume you go vertical? :)

Actually getting some scrapple from my students this week - lotsa hogs around here have found their last acorn.
 
...But I gotta ask...when you kill a hog with a splitter, I assume you go vertical? :)...

Heheh...you have no idea.

For those who are interested here is a photo documentary of one of our hog killin's. The images can get a bit graphic. I recommend clicking on the first picture and reading the accompanying explanation. Then use your right arrow (or just click the image) to take you to the next image with explanation, and so on. The result is a pretty good step-by-step explanation of what's involved. This is a public album, so you don't need to have a Facebook account to view it. https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.102289706448022.4965.100000009807887&type=1&l=42917891be

By the way, I gassed up the splitter today and it fired right up and works fine. There was the expected initial choppiness on the first engage, but the following cycles were smooth, so I'm confident the air is out of the lines. I'm still in the operating range as far as hydraulic fluid level.
 
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Great splitters. I warm mine up a for a few minutes. When breaking them in, change the idle speed regularly, rings seat upon decelleration.

I also recommend getting a work table attachment. They are great backsavers and really speed up larger logs.
 
I also recommend getting a work table attachment. They are great backsavers and really speed up larger logs.
+1 on the work table. My father bought me the one that 33flame sells on eBay. This past Friday I installed it and split 2 cords of wood I have been putting off doing hoping I would get a table for Christmas. It was so nice to not have to bend over all the time. (I do do some vertical splitting too for the really big stuff. My technique needs refining though since I find sitting and bending over does a tune on my back. I keep trying different height seats, but haven't found the perfect one yet.

BTW, the 33flame table is nice because once installed, it can be easily removed/installed without tools. A real plus when switching between horizontal/vertical and when transporting the splitter.
 
I use a tarp underneath the splitting area, I am splitting on a rock driveway so this is great for easy cleanup and collecting scraps, also I had a few leaks of oil my first few times, was easy to locate them and actually know that they were going on.... Other then than it works great, oh yeah keep that cap to the hydraulic tank tight so no water can trickle in, good luck with it and great choice....
 
Take a couple rounds and place them to the left of the end of the beam. You now have a makeshift log table to set big pieces you've split. Also park the splitter extremely close to where you are going to stack the wood to avoid wasted motion and handling twice.

Get the log table for it too.
 
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Does anyone know the oil drain plug size on the B&S 675E Series motor that came with this splitter? I'm looking to get one of these to make oil changes less messy, but I don't know which one to get. I think it would be narrowed down to the 1/4" or the 3/8".

I can't tell you what the drain plug size is, but I would like to put a plug (no pun intended) in for a LiquiVac. Yes is costs twice as much as a Drainzit, but I use mine on my splitter, lawn mower, generator, and for draining other non-gasoline automotive fluids. I am way ahead in cost savings. Plus, it is really handy when the boy comes and says "I put too much oil in the mower. What do I do now?" (Hard to get mad when you realize he actually remembered to check the oil and trying to do the right thing.) It was super easy to just suck out the extra amount and not spill a drop.
 
That Drainzit line looks like it would work well on the Huskee splitter. My splitter is just about due for its first oil change and this would make the job much neater. I unscrewed the drain plug (Briggs 675 engine) enough to measure it without dumping the oil - seems to be about .660 OD which would make it 3/8 NPT. The LiquiVac also looks interesting but I think I will try the drain line since it will be permanently attached to the splitter, one less thing that I have to find when I need it (poor organizational skills :)
 
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