Husqvarna 141 troubles

[brian89gp]

Having a few minor problems with a Husqvarna 141 I just aquired. This is my first chainsaw (used plenty, just have never owned one) so I don't quite know how to tackle these two problems. When cold it runs like a ***** ape, I absolutely love the thing. Have a 16" bar and it was cutting fine through 15" maple like it was butter. When it gets warm two problems happen.

1. the chain brake stops working once the saw warms up (chain keeps spinning when at idle).
2. it will bog down as soon as you give it full throttle, at load or not at load. As it gets progressivly warmer it bogs easier and easier. I can fether it up to 3/4 throttle and it will still cut fine, but stab the throttle it will bog and go past 3/4 and it will bog. I am guessing that it is running rich?

 

[KarlP]

1. Do you mean the chain brake doesn't work if you push the handle forward or that it is idling too high so the clutch engages and the chain spins slowly? If the first you need to replace the brake band and/or handle. If the 2nd it is a simple carb adjustment.

2) Very likely a carb adjustment issue.

Read this -

http://store.chainsawr.com/blogs/tu...djustment-and-tuning-of-a-chainsaw-carburetor

Take your time when adjusting a chainsaw carb. If something seems wrong shut the saw down immediately. You can badly damage your piston and/or cylinder by running too lean at high speed.

 

[brian89gp]

Chain brake works quite well if you pull the handle. Enough to stall the saw.

When its warmed up, after making a cut and it idles down the chain is still moving. When the engine is cold the chain doesn't spin when at idle. Its not exacly a "chain spins slowly" when its warm, it seems to be going around at engine idle speed.


I will read into the carb adjustments. I was using 32:1 mix instead of 40:1 and according to that page this can cause an over-rich condition. Thank you for the link.

 

[KarlP]

I think its the other way around. You are running 32:1 - 3.1% oil and 96.9% fuel. That saw is probably tuned for 50:1 - 2% oil and 98% fuel. You probably don't have enough fuel for the air coming into the carburator and are running lean.

I think you may be taking a good thing too far. If you are using decent oil, there is no reason to use 4oz of oil per gallon (32:1) on that saw. The saw is designed for 50:1. In my opinion 3oz per gallon (43:1) is PLENTY. You might have also fouled your plug running 32:1. Take a look at it and clean it off if necessary. If you keep running 32:1 you're just making extra smoke and may plug up your muffler screen.

 

[CTYank]

I think its the other way around. You are running 32:1 - 3.1% oil and 96.9% fuel. That saw is probably tuned for 50:1 - 2% oil and 98% fuel. You probably don't have enough fuel for the air coming into the carburator and are running lean.

I think you may be taking a good thing too far. If you are using decent oil, there is no reason to use 4oz of oil per gallon (32:1) on that saw. The saw is designed for 50:1. In my opinion 3oz per gallon (43:1) is PLENTY. You might have also fouled your plug running 32:1. Take a look at it and clean it off if necessary. If you keep running 32:1 you're just making extra smoke and may plug up your muffler screen.

Exactly. 50:1 leaves plenty of margin from "trouble."

OP's problems:
Idle speed too high, or clutch springs weak. Should be an easy DIY fix, or take it to a pro.
Carb likely misadjusted, or problems with fuel line or (if present) vac line from crankcase to fuel pump on carb. Also possible: fuel tank vent valve failure, or crank seal leak (careful- this one can toast a piston.) Troubleshooting help may be in order here.

Long term, you really want to know how to adjust carb, and how to ID mixture probs. Going lean @ WOT is not recommended.

 

[Ken45]

There could be an even more simple reason for the chain to spin at idle: the chain is too loose! Tighten up the chain properly and see if that stops it from spinning.

In the old days I seem to remember the manual saying to adjust the chain for some sag when cold. Not anymore. Chain should be snug when cold.

Ken

 

[CTYank]

There could be an even more simple reason for the chain to spin at idle: the chain is too loose! Tighten up the chain properly and see if that stops it from spinning.

In the old days I seem to remember the manual saying to adjust the chain for some sag when cold. Not anymore. Chain should be snug when cold.

Ken

If at all possible, more reason to take the saw to some professional eyes, who can help speed up his learning curve, because of noobiness. We all start there, but want to leave quickly.

RE chain slack, you're thinking of hardnose (very slight slack when cold) to roller/sprocket-nose, where you'd be able to pull on cutters and not fully expose drive links.

With clutch disengaged, the only driving torque would be from clutch bearing drag. Not bloody likely, except from dirt/rust.

 

[Singed Eyebrows]

Having a few minor problems with a Husqvarna 141 I just aquired. This is my first chainsaw (used plenty, just have never owned one) so I don't quite know how to tackle these two problems. When cold it runs like a ***** ape, I absolutely love the thing. Have a 16" bar and it was cutting fine through 15" maple like it was butter. When it gets warm two problems happen.

1. the chain brake stops working once the saw warms up (chain keeps spinning when at idle).
2. it will bog down as soon as you give it full throttle, at load or not at load. As it gets progressivly warmer it bogs easier and easier. I can fether it up to 3/4 throttle and it will still cut fine, but stab the throttle it will bog and go past 3/4 and it will bog. I am guessing that it is running rich?

Does the saw have a green fuel cap? If its an emissions saw, good luck! Husky had more trouble with emissions carbs & intake air leaks than anyone I know of. You can try pulling the limiter caps & or doctoring them so you can richen up the low & high speed. Huskys can be really tempermental. I just sold a 141, it didn't want to come back down to idle fast like it should. Normally indicative of an intake or seal leak. Good luck, I wouldn't spend much money finding the problem, I'd sell it & go on to something else. Anything can be repaired, its just a matter of time & money. Randy

 

[wkpoor]

Dolmar had some issues with carb leaks with the 5100s also early on. Still was a rockin saw.

 

[MasterMech]

The 141 is basically a Poulan with orange plastic. That said, it can be a decent saw if you know how to deal with the out-of-the-box issues these units had. Your first problem with the chain spinning may be solved just by turning down the idle speed screw, NOT the idle mixture screw. If the saw doesn't respond well to the adjustment screws then you probably have some air leak issues. These saws require a special type of tool to adjust the carburetor. These tools are generally cheap and available online. Husqvarna 530035560 is what your after.

Second, almost EVERY 141 out there had issues with the muffler coming loose. Check those screws often so they don't break off in the cylinder!

Finally, most 141's were poorly tuned from the factory. We re-adjusted every one of them before it left the shop. If you are not experienced with chainsaw carburetor adjustments then I'd recommend taking it to a pro who won't mind showing you how to make minor adjustments to keep it running great. Most of us are happy to let you DIY'ers take care of simple maintenance and leave the specialty work to us.

 

[brian89gp]

Chain was loose, I was being so pissed off at it not running right I didn't notice until I went back to clean it. There was also a bunch of wood chips caught up around the brake drum and a few inside the clutch housing. The oil pump leaks pretty bad and gets the whole area pretty packed with oily sawdust, I have a newer model oil pump to replace it but just haven't done it yet.

Come to think of it, the saw does seem to have a high idle speed. I've only ever used larger Stihls so I figured it was just a Husky thing.

It is a 99 model, non EPA from what I can tell. It came from a professional tree service and would be considered well broken in/very used.

I got the saw extremely cheap so I am willing to put a little money into it to get it running right. I like the saw quite a lot, for its weight and the safety chain I have on it the thing cuts amazingly well.

I might take it to a saw shop to adjust the carb just to get it done quicker. I've done a lot of carb tuning on dirtbike and sportbike carbs but never a chainsaw. I will check over the other parts mentioned. Many thanks.

 

[brian89gp]

Well crap, there is a sticker on the side that says it is an EPA model that complies with California emission standards. Might just replace the whole carb if that is a good idea? Part is only $25 or so.

I really do like the saw, this one I bought for my girlfriend to use but after using it I was planning on getting a second one for me to use with all of the pieces up to 16" or so.

 

[Singed Eyebrows]

Well crap, there is a sticker on the side that says it is an EPA model that complies with California emission standards. Might just replace the whole carb if that is a good idea? Part is only $25 or so.

I really do like the saw, this one I bought for my girlfriend to use but after using it I was planning on getting a second one for me to use with all of the pieces up to 16" or so.

See if the muffler is stamped "cat". If so, it is very restricted, Randy

 

[brian89gp]

Well crap, there is a sticker on the side that says it is an EPA model that complies with California emission standards. Might just replace the whole carb if that is a good idea? Part is only $25 or so.

I really do like the saw, this one I bought for my girlfriend to use but after using it I was planning on getting a second one for me to use with all of the pieces up to 16" or so.

See if the muffler is stamped "cat". If so, it is very restricted, Randy

I looked and could not find that stamp. Is it the muffler body or the innards that is very restricted on the EPA model?

 

[KarlP]

I wouldn't worry about modifying the muffler yet. Just try to get it running to spec first. Check for air leaks, clean the air filter, put the right fuel mix in it, inspect the spark plug, adjust the carb, and sharpen the chain OR take it to a saw shop for a "tuneup". THEN judge how it runs. It should be a fine saw for light use if it wasn't abused too much in its earlier life and its properly tuned.

 

[Singed Eyebrows]

Well crap, there is a sticker on the side that says it is an EPA model that complies with California emission standards. Might just replace the whole carb if that is a good idea? Part is only $25 or so.

I really do like the saw, this one I bought for my girlfriend to use but after using it I was planning on getting a second one for me to use with all of the pieces up to 16" or so.

See if the muffler is stamped "cat". If so, it is very restricted, Randy

I looked and could not find that stamp. Is it the muffler body or the innards that is very restricted on the EPA model?

The Cat mufflers are very restricted. If you don't see the stamp on the outside its probably a non cat version. A good running 141 is a $100 saw, Randy

 

[brian89gp]

Pulled the plug, according to the 2-stroke charts I could find it is running slightly lean (light brown). No oil of any sort on the plug. No air leaks or anything I could find. It appears the person I bought it from had it rebuilt recently, it is quite clean and all common replaced parts look new.

Could running 32:1 instead of 50:1 cause it to run that lean? I have to go home and check the oil bottle, but I am pretty sure I mixed it right around 32:1. Why would it run fine when cold, but once warmed up it started to act up?

What are the stock settings for the carb L and H screws? I was going to double check those tonight. The two Husqvarna repair shops I called wanted almost $50 to tune the carb, so I am going to try to figure it out on my own.

 

[brian89gp]

Well, said the hell with it and started taking it apart and I think I found the problem. When they rebuilt it (person I bought it from said it was freshly rebuilt) they routed the fuel line incorrectly, it ended up wedged behind the throttle arm by the idle speed screw. The further you opened the throttle, the more it would crimp down on the fuel line. 100% throttle and it was a 100% crimped.

This would also explain why it worked for the first 1-2 hours just fine, then up and started doing the cutting out at full throttle and progressively got worse, the hose was getting more and more permenantly crimped.

Re-badged Poulan with a plastic crankcase and all, I like this little saw.

 

[MasterMech]

Pulled the plug, according to the 2-stroke charts I could find it is running slightly lean (light brown). No oil of any sort on the plug. No air leaks or anything I could find. It appears the person I bought it from had it rebuilt recently, it is quite clean and all common replaced parts look new.

Could running 32:1 instead of 50:1 cause it to run that lean? I have to go home and check the oil bottle, but I am pretty sure I mixed it right around 32:1. Why would it run fine when cold, but once warmed up it started to act up?

What are the stock settings for the carb L and H screws? I was going to double check those tonight. The two Husqvarna repair shops I called wanted almost $50 to tune the carb, so I am going to try to figure it out on my own.

Run that saw @ 50:1. 32:1 is just too much oil for today's oil and saws.

 

[brian89gp]

Replaced the fuel line, and finally figured out the issue.

The H jet is not large enough to provide enough fuel at full throttle, the extra fuel has to be added by increasing the L jet. The H jet falls out before there is enough fuel. The idle then is adjusted by the throttle screw, but in general runs higher then normal. I am sure that this is in a small part due to the combo of the EPA carb and too much oil in the gas. Ran across several other threads on the internet along the same lines, the only way to get a 141 with an EPA carb to run good is by backing the screws almost all the way out.

Probably going to look for a non-EPA carb just to get rid of a headache. And yes, I will use 50:1. Just bought a new 2.5 gallon gas can so I can properly mix it now.

 

[KarlP]

Take it to someone who knows how to tune a saw. Something sounds very wrong with what you are describing. It doesn't make sense.

 

[MasterMech]

Replaced the fuel line, and finally figured out the issue.

The H jet is not large enough to provide enough fuel at full throttle, the extra fuel has to be added by increasing the L jet. The H jet falls out before there is enough fuel. The idle then is adjusted by the throttle screw, but in general runs higher then normal. I am sure that this is in a small part due to the combo of the EPA carb and too much oil in the gas. Ran across several other threads on the internet along the same lines, the only way to get a 141 with an EPA carb to run good is by backing the screws almost all the way out.

Probably going to look for a non-EPA carb just to get rid of a headache. And yes, I will use 50:1. Just bought a new 2.5 gallon gas can so I can properly mix it now.

That's just not possible. The L jet relies on vacuum behind the throttle plate to function. The more the throttle opens, the less vacuum there is to operate the L. Fattening up the L might help with part throttle transitioning but would have little effect at WOT.

 

[brian89gp]

That's just not possible. The L jet relies on vacuum behind the throttle plate to function. The more the throttle opens, the less vacuum there is to operate the L. Fattening up the L might help with part throttle transitioning but would have little effect at WOT.

I can stall it at idle and affect idle speed by adjusting the H screw. Takes a bit of turning, but it will do it. I don't pretend to understand that one either... I called the shop that rebuilt the saw and the tech said that the 141's with the EPA carb are just difficult in general.

To add some more complexity to it, with 32:1 I had to have both screws 4 turns out and it still would stall at idle and bog down in a cut. Switch to 50:1 and set the screws to 2 turns and it runs fine. 2 turns with 32:1 and it won't start, won't idle, and won't run at speed. All the other saws I've used don't seem to care too much between 32:1 and 50:1, even my 262xp doesn't. Smokes a little more but thats it.

So 50:1, 2 turns on both screws, and the saw is running fine now.