Hydraulic fluid for small (4-ton) electric splitter

[gyrfalcon]

I've got one of the Woodeez 4-ton electric splitters and it's about time to change the hydrolic oil. I understand this stuff is pretty standard for gas splitters, but wondering if there's any difference I should worry about with an electric since the motor runs so much cooler.

The manual specifies 4 specific oils "or the equivalent," but doesn't say what the characteristics of them are that I should look for the equivalent of. And I can't get my hands on any of them around here. My mechanic down the road doesn't know, either.

So is this the same as for a gas splitter-- any good quality tractor-grade hydaulic oil is good? (That's easy-peasy to get out here in farm country.)

FYI, the four oils the manual specifies are Shell Tellus 22, Mobil DTE11, ARAL Vitam GF 22, and BP Energol HLP-HM 22.

 

[Backwoods Savage]

I don't think there is much difference except perhaps that those might be the mix that doesn't thicken in cold weather, which is a plus for splitters that are used in the cold.

 

[kevin j]

Any good Antiwear hydraulic oil of ISO 22 viscosity grade is fine. Those numbers are all ISO 22, which is about SAE 5W equivalent.

Why are you changing? If there is no filter in the system, I would do it to remove contamination from manufacturing. Otherwise, no point in changing the oil, just the filter.

 

[jimbom]

I am not sure routine change of hydraulic fluid is necessary. Of course, I defer to the manufacturer recommendations.

 

[gyrfalcon]

Any good Antiwear hydraulic oil of ISO 22 viscosity grade is fine. Those numbers are all ISO 22, which is about SAE 5W equivalent.

Why are you changing? If there is no filter in the system, I would do it to remove contamination from manufacturing. Otherwise, no point in changing the oil, just the filter.

Thanks very much for the info, just what I was looking for.

As for changing it out, I'm just doing what the manual tells me to. I can see nothing in the manual that says anything about a filter, so I assume there must not be one. It says to change it after around 150 hours of use, which is about where I am with it.

 

[gyrfalcon]

I don't think there is much difference except perhaps that those might be the mix that doesn't thicken in cold weather, which is a plus for splitters that are used in the cold.

The manuf. is very strict about cold, says it must not be stored at under 40 degrees. Which is a major PITA because in cold weather,I have to use it for a while, then bring it in from the attached woodshed, through a crowded (uninsulated) storeroom and then into the kitchen when I'm not using it. Who keeps a log splitter in the kitchen, I ask you?
I use it mostly in winter, and since the shed is enclosed as well as attached, I do some splitting there when it's well below freezing and it doesn't seem to mind that. But having to haul the heavy, awkward, cumbersome thing in and out on its tiny little back wheels is really annoying.

 

[DanCorcoran]

Strange...I have the Pow'R'Kraft 7-ton (Woodeze is a re-labelled Pow'R'Kraft...check out the Pow'R'Kraft website, where they offer to re-label their products), and my manual says, "It is designed for operating under ambient temperatures between 41 degrees F and 104 degrees F... It can be stored or transported under ambient temperatures between -13 degrees F and 131 degrees F." I think your manual is wrong. My manual recommends the same four hydraulic oils as yours. It says to replace the fluid after 400 hours of use...no mention of a filter.


Edit: I just checked the online manual for the Pow'R'Kraft 4-ton model and it is the same as mine in regard to temperatures. Perhaps you misread yours? (The 4-ton manual does specify changing oil at 150 hours, however, not 400).

http://powrkraft.com/manuals.htm

 

[gyrfalcon]

Strange...I have the Pow'R'Kraft 7-ton (Woodeze is a re-labelled Pow'R'Kraft...check out the Pow'R'Kraft website, where they offer to re-label their products), and my manual says, "It is designed for operating under ambient temperatures between 41 degrees F and 104 degrees F... It can be stored or transported under ambient temperatures between -13 degrees F and 131 degrees F." I think your manual is wrong. My manual recommends the same four hydraulic oils as yours. It says to replace the fluid after 400 hours of use...no mention of a filter.


Edit: I just checked the online manual for the Pow'R'Kraft 4-ton model and it is the same as mine in regard to temperatures. Perhaps you misread yours? (The 4-ton manual does specify changing oil at 150 hours, however, not 400).

http://powrkraft.com/manuals.htm

Oh. My. God. You are right, sir! (Mine uses Celsius, but still...)

But I must plead I was misled in the first instance by the product info on the Web site of the company I bought it from-- and by responses to queries I sent to this company and one other asking about this very matter, and by advice from folks on this site and from people like my mechanic.

And I must say it makes no sense to me. I can understand not keeping it and then using it in very cold temperatures, but why on earth shouldn't you be able to operate it in cold temperatures for an hour or so if it's been stored in a warm one? It seems backwards to me. (And in any case, I've had no trouble at all doing that.)

 

[chuckie5fingers]

I have a task force 5 ton and I used it during the winter. I just ran the ram a few times to let the fluid warm up, keep the bleeder valve open... no problems so far that I can see.

chuck

 

[BrotherBart]

I am a sinner. My gas powered 20 ton Duerr splitter has the same hydraulic fluid in it that I put in it in 1988. And that Powr Kraft four ton in the breeze way ain't getting it changed any more often.

I have never changed the fluid in an automatic transmission in a car and have never had a transmission crap out. Ever. In fact we never changed the hydraulic fluid in the flight controls of the Chinook helicopters I flew in and I don't recall ever falling out of the sky.

 

[MasterMech]

Lucky you on the car tranny BB. I just dumped the trans fluid on my woodhauler (See sig) and it was definetly time. Fluid was dark and smelled burnt. Can't complain tho, it's 23 years old! (76k miles) Most new passenger cars will never need a fluid change in their forseeable lifetime. Pickups/SUV's and other hard-working tranny's still need fluid changes but the interval is 50-100k miles depending on the mfg and usage.

On hydraulic fluid like that in splitters it isn't really necessary to change the fluid like it would be for engine oil. The only reason the mfg is recomending you do so is because the small splitters do not have a filter to remove particulates from the oil.

 

[Backwoods Savage]

The manuf. is very strict about cold, says it must not be stored at under 40 degrees. Which is a major PITA because in cold weather,I have to use it for a while, then bring it in from the attached woodshed, through a crowded (uninsulated) storeroom and then into the kitchen when I'm not using it. Who keeps a log splitter in the kitchen, I ask you?
I use it mostly in winter, and since the shed is enclosed as well as attached, I do some splitting there when it's well below freezing and it doesn't seem to mind that. But having to haul the heavy, awkward, cumbersome thing in and out on its tiny little back wheels is really annoying.

I'll bet that takes some explaining to company. I can just picture you hauling that splitter into the kitchen.

 

[Backwoods Savage]

I am a sinner. My gas powered 20 ton Duerr splitter has the same hydraulic fluid in it that I put in it in 1988. And that Powr Kraft four ton in the breeze way ain't getting it changed any more often.

I have never changed the fluid in an automatic transmission in a car and have never had a transmission crap out. Ever. In fact we never changed the hydraulic fluid in the flight controls of the Chinook helicopters I flew in and I don't recall ever falling out of the sky.

Bart, I fully agree with you and I do the very same thing.

 

[kevin j]

Unless the pump suction ports are EXTREMELY small, there is no reason you can't store it anywhere, warm it up to freezing and run it. I defer to the mfr recommendations, but ISO 22 fluid is usually an artic fluid. 46 is good year around in mobile equipment and 68 is hard use in hot weather. But 22 is really light. Some seal materials (like Viton) do shrink a lot below 0 F, but Viton is for high temps, and extra pennies, and I doubt the mfr used it.

If mine, I'd store it in the shed, use it as is above 32F, and buy a much smaller and more suburbanite garlic crusher for the kitchen.

 

[gyrfalcon]

Unless the pump suction ports are EXTREMELY small, there is no reason you can't store it anywhere, warm it up to freezing and run it. I defer to the mfr recommendations, but ISO 22 fluid is usually an artic fluid. 46 is good year around in mobile equipment and 68 is hard use in hot weather. But 22 is really light. Some seal materials (like Viton) do shrink a lot below 0 F, but Viton is for high temps, and extra pennies, and I doubt the mfr used it.

If mine, I'd store it in the shed, use it as is above 32F, and buy a much smaller and more suburbanite garlic crusher for the kitchen.

Good suggestion, but for a bunch of logistical reasons way too boring to go into, I really can't afford to wait for the temp to go above freezing to use this bad boy. And I also can't afford to have the thing croak on me. So while all the speculation about what I could get away with is interesting, I'm just going to do what I'm told and change the damn fluid and roll the monster in and out of the the kitchen in wintertime. As for the garlic, friends visiting from areas with Trader Joe's are all told they have to bring with them some of the frozen crushed (not chopped) garlic the store carries that I can't get here.

 

[gyrfalcon]

I'll bet that takes some explaining to company. I can just picture you hauling that splitter into the kitchen.

It's a conversation starter, that's for sure. (To be fair, it's not very large and sits vertically on its haunches in a reasonably discreet corner. Still...)

 

[jimbom]

....In fact we never changed the hydraulic fluid in the flight controls of the Chinook helicopters I flew in and I don't recall ever falling out of the sky.

I agree with not changing hydraulic fluid. I don't. My guess is samples of the fluids from the Chinook were drawn and run through a mass spectrometer frequently. They don't take many chances with those things other than letting Marines fly them.

 

[kettensäge]

Lucky you on the car tranny BB. I just dumped the trans fluid on my woodhauler (See sig) and it was definetly time. Fluid was dark and smelled burnt. Can't complain tho, it's 23 years old! (76k miles) Most new passenger cars will never need a fluid change in their forseeable lifetime. Pickups/SUV's and other hard-working tranny's still need fluid changes but the interval is 50-100k miles depending on the mfg and usage.

On hydraulic fluid like that in splitters it isn't really necessary to change the fluid like it would be for engine oil. The only reason the mfg is recomending you do so is because the small splitters do not have a filter to remove particulates from the oil.

Kind of agree but it's best to check the manual when it comes to cars. Most new cars are not even equipped with a dipstick for the trans.

The wife's Subie AWD started acting up last year, felt like a locked 4x4 when cornering. Got all prepared to change the soleniod in the tail of the trans that operates the AWD clutch. Did research and found sometimes just a fluid change will fix it. Thank God it did.
It has a 30k trans fluid change interval. Went 108k before there was trouble.


Got my splitter around 2006, filled the hydraulics, split about 9 cords a year or 10-15 hours run time. Just put a filter on it last year and never touched the fluid, still nice and clear.