I have a single action cylinder. 4" dia and 30 in stroke. Can I weld a bung on the other end to make it a slave cylinder?
Hydraulic gurus help!!!
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Definitely...maybe... (I'm thinking you mean make it a double-acting cylinder as opposed to slave cylinder?)
There are a couple things to take into consideration. First, the end plates of most hydraulic cylinders are cast iron or cast steel, I don't know that you would get a weld that is good enough to stand up to the vibration and pressure encountered. If there is enough 'meat' to drill and tap, that might be an alternative. (sometimes the plate will have the lugs cast in, just not drilled and tapped) you could probably do it with plate steel, though Second, the piston inside the cylinder has a set of seals - these seals are generally designed so as the hydraulic pressure builds, they are forced tighter against the cylinder wall and seal better. On a double acting cylinder, one set of seals faces each way so no matter which end is pressurized, the seal is maintained. On a single acting cylinder, you would have one set of seals facing the 'live' end for sure, but there may or may not be a set of seals facing the 'dead' end. (Though, you could pretty quickly tell by taking the cylinder apart) Then there is the shaft seal. On a double acting cylinder, this is also designed to hold hydraulic pressure - on a single, it may be a simple set of O-rings or something else not designed to actually hold pressure.
So you've got 2-3 areas to look at and take into consideration. Ideally, the manufacturer would just supply a cylinder with the same end plates, pistons and seals, then just drill the end plate to make a double acting cylinder...this would cut down a bunch on their part count, but you never know until you look.
There are a couple things to take into consideration. First, the end plates of most hydraulic cylinders are cast iron or cast steel, I don't know that you would get a weld that is good enough to stand up to the vibration and pressure encountered. If there is enough 'meat' to drill and tap, that might be an alternative. (sometimes the plate will have the lugs cast in, just not drilled and tapped) you could probably do it with plate steel, though Second, the piston inside the cylinder has a set of seals - these seals are generally designed so as the hydraulic pressure builds, they are forced tighter against the cylinder wall and seal better. On a double acting cylinder, one set of seals faces each way so no matter which end is pressurized, the seal is maintained. On a single acting cylinder, you would have one set of seals facing the 'live' end for sure, but there may or may not be a set of seals facing the 'dead' end. (Though, you could pretty quickly tell by taking the cylinder apart) Then there is the shaft seal. On a double acting cylinder, this is also designed to hold hydraulic pressure - on a single, it may be a simple set of O-rings or something else not designed to actually hold pressure.
So you've got 2-3 areas to look at and take into consideration. Ideally, the manufacturer would just supply a cylinder with the same end plates, pistons and seals, then just drill the end plate to make a double acting cylinder...this would cut down a bunch on their part count, but you never know until you look.
Thanks Cozy.
The cylinder came from an old grain wagon lift so it is quite old, and the port was left open. Im afraid If I did go though all this that the inside of the cylinder my be rusted and the seals rotted. After thinking it is probably safer to just sink the money into a new ram.
The cylinder came from an old grain wagon lift so it is quite old, and the port was left open. Im afraid If I did go though all this that the inside of the cylinder my be rusted and the seals rotted. After thinking it is probably safer to just sink the money into a new ram.
Sounds like someone may be working on a log splitter??
True - you can sink a bunch of money and time refurbing and old, beat up cylinder - then still not have much in the end. They pop up on ebay and craigslist from time to time. Usually pretty decent deals if you can find one local, otherwise shipping the heavy slug will eat into the "deal". Northerntool.com also as a good selection of all things hydraulic.
True - you can sink a bunch of money and time refurbing and old, beat up cylinder - then still not have much in the end. They pop up on ebay and craigslist from time to time. Usually pretty decent deals if you can find one local, otherwise shipping the heavy slug will eat into the "deal". Northerntool.com also as a good selection of all things hydraulic.
I have had so many design changes in my head, Im not sure which way to go. I may use the big cylinder to raise the beam from the trailer then use gravity to lower it via a ball valve bypass. I know its WAY over kill but the cool factor is way up there.
Anyone have an extra valve assembly they can part with...lol
Heres what I have so far;
Anyone have an extra valve assembly they can part with...lol
Heres what I have so far;
Attachments
Dune
Minister of Fire
Two things; I would not try to convert a single acting piston. Second, use a log splitter valve. They are different than all other hydraulic vavles, and provide safety and convience that is well worth the money. Northern sells them for a very resonable price.
Already passed this problem. Decided it wasnt worth the hassle or the emergency room visit. Just finished fabbing up my design. Its on my other post.
https://www.hearth.com/econtent/index.php/forums/viewthread/33201/
https://www.hearth.com/econtent/index.php/forums/viewthread/33201/
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