I am really feeling dumb. Trying to get hearth for Englander 30

[Spoon]

I am realizing my mental limitations. I am trying to figure out what and how to use as floor protection and wall protection. I was looking at trying to reduce how far my stove will need to set out from a combustable wall. The manual indicates my model of stove comes with a rear shield and I may place the stove 8 inches from combustables. However the stove pipe must be 16 inches from combustables. If I have measured right the stove pipe is 4 inches from the back of the stove. It looks like I must place my stove 12 inches from the combustable wall to satisfy the pipe clearance. I am hoping some 30 users will step in here and help me understand this a little better' Please advise what is the most practical and visually appealing way to protect my wall. Then it also says I need a R value of 1.5 for the floor protection. I initially want to do a raised tile hearth but because of the shear size of the minimally allowed hearth (39x52.5) I think I will have to do something more at floor level. I have been blow away by all the rocket science and need help. Thanks for the patience.

 

[Pagey]

You'll have two listing for CTCs - one for using single wall stove pipe and another for using double wall stove pipe. Which clearance are you looking at?

 

[Spoon]

I was looking at the single walled. Which brings up my next question. My stove has the rear shield but not the side shields. The CTC chart says for single walled with both rear and side shields it is 10 inches. My question is, if I have a rear shield and my combustable wall is to the rear can I use the 10 inch clearance?

Correction: It says single walled with rear shield is 16 inches.

 

[Pagey]

Okay, reading the manual I see the following for a single wall stove pipe with an unprotected wall (i.e., sheet rock): using side & rear shields, single wall stove pipe allows 8" from rear heat shield to unprotected wall and 16" from the stove pipe to the wall with rear shield only or 10" from the stove pipe to the wall using rear AND side heat shields. Looks like if you want the lowest CTC, you need to use rear and side shields.

 

[Spoon]

I am interested in finding a way to protect the wall in which is both visibly appealing and practical. What are some of the suggestions?

 

[Pagey]

All I can tell you about wall protection is that you have to leave a 1" air gap between the combustible surface and the non-combustible surface. Use ceramic spacers to achieve the 1" space.

 

[Spoon]

While I have been searching I came upon this post. I need a hearth r value of 1.5. I like how this one looks. Do you think his r value is sound?

I too have an Englander 13. I built this pad using 3/4 " plywood then 1/4" air space then 1/2" durock then 1/4" air space then 1/2" durock and finally 1/4" slate tiles. Encased in Oak trim. Total cost about $165. Supposedly the air space gets me to the R2 value. This air sapce was created with 1/4" durock cut into furring strips. Everone told me I overbuilt it, but......

 

[Hiram Maxim]

Here is a link to a really nice home made hearth with Englander 30 install.........


http://matt.gehrisch.us/2009/02/01/installing-my-englander-30-nc/

 

[ProjectX]

Hey spoon,

I used durock and thinset with color mixed in. I figure later on i can face with stone as funds allow.

Here is my install that shows spacers/color/durock hope it helps.

https://www.hearth.com/econtent/index.php/forums/viewthread/42676/

 

[Danno77]

I've never been a fan of using furring strips and air space to get r-values. The same goes for things like screws and such to connect different layers. Maybe it's my experience with electricity that makes me think this, but won't the heat just travel through the furring strips? therefore you'd have a hearth that has alternating high and low r-values. i'll use the picture below to indicate what I'm talking about.

 

[Spoon]

I've never been a fan of using furring strips and air space to get r-values. The same goes for things like screws and such to connect different layers. Maybe it's my experience with electricity that makes me think this, but won't the heat just travel through the furring strips? therefore you'd have a hearth that has alternating high and low r-values. i'll use the picture below to indicate what I'm talking about.

What if you alternated the directions of the furring strips in the different layers? Or alternate spaceing. I would think you would come up with a better average r value. Maybe I am on crack. I do like the idea of the metal stud. It should have an air space in it to. That may be the way to go. I would appreciate any thoughts or ideas.