I have a Englander 49-TRCPM. I've had it for about 3 months. Lately, it's been going out in the middle of the night. It runs 24-7 and never does this during the daytime. I'm consistent about my daily and semi-weekly maintenance. I haven't burned a whole ton yet so I haven't preformed the leaf blower trick yet. I don't have a lazy flame or a performance issue, but I wake up in the morning to a full pot and no fire?? Any ideas where to start looking?
I can't figure out why my stove goes out at night
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SmokeyTheBear
Minister of Fire
Are there any error indications given by the stove? Some stoves display error codes and other blink leds on the control panel.
Have there been any power fluctuations in your area as of late?
Any wires loosened around wherever you have cleaned?
How are you operating the stove (is it being T-stat controlled and how)?
Those are a few of the questions I'd be asking.
Have there been any power fluctuations in your area as of late?
Any wires loosened around wherever you have cleaned?
How are you operating the stove (is it being T-stat controlled and how)?
Those are a few of the questions I'd be asking.
Are you setting the temp back at nightime? If you are try raising the temp a couple of degrees and see if the stove stays running all night.
Bkins
Bkins
SmokeyTheBear said:
I do not see any error indications. I do see a blinking light behind the control panel through the vent grates, but do not see anything illuminated on the control panel.
I don't see loose wires.
The stove operates around the clock without a thermostat. I keep it mostly in the 9/heat - 9/blower position.
Bkins - no, I never set it back at night always in the 9/9 position at night.
SmokeyTheBear
Minister of Fire
sculptor said:
Is 9 9 full out?
What is in the burn pot ash or unburned pellets?
That blinking light does it blink when the fire is burning?
I don't have a manual for that stove, maybe a bit later I'll download it and do a bit of reading.
jtakeman
Minister of Fire
sculptor said:
Sounds like it may have hi the high limit switch and shut down. But you would also think it would display an error code for that problem. But I think its a fuel feed issue.
In another post you mentioned that it will not feed all the pellets in the hopper. You could have a hang up. The stove runs almost out of fuel. Fuel un jams or slides to auger. Auger feeds but to late and snuffs out the little flame that maybe left. Stove then shuts down because it gets cold and proof of fire switch is opened. You awake to a almost full burnpot with unburned pellets. Stove should show an error for no fuel or similar.
Hope this helps
jay
I have my stove in 24' x 16' room with 12' ceilings and a winding stair case. In the room, I also have a large opening going up to the ceiling upstairs. It's around 140 yrs old and poorly insulated. I need to keep it on high all the time and it never comes close to running me out of the room.
At night, I wake to find fuel in the hopper, the stove control panel not illuminated. The pot is mostly full the top has unburnt fuel. This is the third time in a week it has done this. I just walked outside to see the vent opening is showing signs of buildup and will preform the leaf blower trick tomorrow, but I have burnt around 2/3 of my first ton.
The hopper issue is the donut hole that it makes and goes out sometimes if I don't catch it in time. I have it lined with the silver tape and it still happens. My first reaction when the stove goes out is the donut hole thing, but I've opened the lid and no donut hole and is mostly full from topping it off before I go to bed.
At night, I wake to find fuel in the hopper, the stove control panel not illuminated. The pot is mostly full the top has unburnt fuel. This is the third time in a week it has done this. I just walked outside to see the vent opening is showing signs of buildup and will preform the leaf blower trick tomorrow, but I have burnt around 2/3 of my first ton.
The hopper issue is the donut hole that it makes and goes out sometimes if I don't catch it in time. I have it lined with the silver tape and it still happens. My first reaction when the stove goes out is the donut hole thing, but I've opened the lid and no donut hole and is mostly full from topping it off before I go to bed.
SmokeyTheBear
Minister of Fire
If there is an E 3 code on your stove when the condition occurs you have over fired your stove which is a good possibility running flat out for hours.
If there wasn't an E code on the display then page 17 problem number 12 would likely apply.
Yes that is a long list of things you'll have to rule out.
You say that you haven't reached the ton mark yet, that guideline is based upon a certain quality of fuel if yours isn't up to snuff you may be past that mark.
Why are you running your stove flat out?
If there wasn't an E code on the display then page 17 problem number 12 would likely apply.
Yes that is a long list of things you'll have to rule out.
You say that you haven't reached the ton mark yet, that guideline is based upon a certain quality of fuel if yours isn't up to snuff you may be past that mark.
Why are you running your stove flat out?
#12
1. ruled out. I have a clean stirrer.
2. ruled out. full hopper.
3. not sure. The Auger must be moving to have a full burn pot of pellets.
4. I am using rocky mountain pellets so poor quality pellets don't apply.
5. It is running now so I doubt it's a loose auger.
6. hopper lid is probably not loose as it runs a good clip after re-fueling before going out.
7. High temp might be it, but I'll be very disappointed if I have to reduce the heat range.
8. too many elbows is not the case....only one.
9. auger motor is running fine now. Unless there are intermittent auger problems I may be ok on this one.
The reason I run it on high is because I need to. Before the pellet stove, I had a large Appalachian wood stove that didn't fare much better. It was warmer! but I had to keep it running on full to keep it that way.
1. ruled out. I have a clean stirrer.
2. ruled out. full hopper.
3. not sure. The Auger must be moving to have a full burn pot of pellets.
4. I am using rocky mountain pellets so poor quality pellets don't apply.
5. It is running now so I doubt it's a loose auger.
6. hopper lid is probably not loose as it runs a good clip after re-fueling before going out.
7. High temp might be it, but I'll be very disappointed if I have to reduce the heat range.
8. too many elbows is not the case....only one.
9. auger motor is running fine now. Unless there are intermittent auger problems I may be ok on this one.
The reason I run it on high is because I need to. Before the pellet stove, I had a large Appalachian wood stove that didn't fare much better. It was warmer! but I had to keep it running on full to keep it that way.
SmokeyTheBear
Minister of Fire
sculptor said:
I see you only ruled out part of #8 leaving exhaust system blockage (dirt aka ash) and a vacuum trip still in the list.
Yeah I saw that about why after I posted I was composing my post and reading, therefore missed your response and exchange with Jay.
A good weatherization would pay you back big time in the heating/cooling department given the tax credits and all these days.
I have a similar problem at nights with my insert. My issue is the fire pit is too full of ashes that the hole for the ignitor is blocked. I see the red light calling for heat and I also see the heating element on. Once I clear the fire pit, I reset it and it starts up. During the day I need to clear the pit a few times to keep it running. I can't do that during the night, so this is my issue.
jtakeman
Minister of Fire
Sounds like the stove is a tick too small. Running a pellet stove flat out may reduce its life duration and or Cause excessive wear to vital components. Just FYI only. "I mean no harm".
Back to problem.
Might be the auger is hanging for a brief period. But free's itself just a little too late and you loose the fire. Again you would get a low fuel error on display. Its really hard to say until you see it happen. Everything else would be total guesses as what the issue really is. Sounds like a tough one.
I also doubt its the fuel. Rockies are a good pellet. As long as they haven't got wet or damp. They should be fine. Would not hurt to try another brand of equal or better quality. Going to be hard to better those Rockies though. I believe you also have a limited amount of brands near you.
Hang in there it will get figure out. Maybe give a shout to Mike at ESW.
Back to problem.
Might be the auger is hanging for a brief period. But free's itself just a little too late and you loose the fire. Again you would get a low fuel error on display. Its really hard to say until you see it happen. Everything else would be total guesses as what the issue really is. Sounds like a tough one.
I also doubt its the fuel. Rockies are a good pellet. As long as they haven't got wet or damp. They should be fine. Would not hurt to try another brand of equal or better quality. Going to be hard to better those Rockies though. I believe you also have a limited amount of brands near you.
Hang in there it will get figure out. Maybe give a shout to Mike at ESW.
SmokeyTheBear said:
I am working on it. I bought it as a fixer-upper. It's a lot of house and the town is pleased with the work I've done on this historic property. I know this is the reason it has to work so hard and certainly don't what to give any indications that I'm blaming the manufacturer that is doesn't heat my entire house. I was just trying to find out why it's acting this way.
I'm not trying to discount the blockage issue. It may very well be that. I just stated the one I can count out ...too many elbows. The others are clean any blockage, clean or replace blower. I just thought I was a little early in the game to be dealing with ash issues. Of course, I always leave room to be wrong on things as I so often am.
SmokeyTheBear
Minister of Fire
sculptor said:SmokeyTheBear said:
I am working on it. I bought it as a fixer-upper. It's a lot of house and the town is pleased with the work I've done on this historic property. I know this is the reason it has to work so hard and certainly don't what to give any indications that I'm blaming the manufacturer that is doesn't heat my entire house. I was just trying to find out why it's acting this way.
I'm not trying to discount the blockage issue. It may very well be that. I just stated the one I can count out ...too many elbows. The others are clean any blockage, clean or replace blower. I just thought I was a little early in the game to be dealing with ash issues. Of course, I always leave room to be wrong on things as I so often am.
I see, did you get one of the old ladies to work on?
I've done three over the years, now I own a place that we are the first to own. I couldn't get the boss to tackle another old house. She's the plaster repair, paint, paper, drapes, etc... (detail) person.
If it is a historic home I'd suggest visits to www.oldhouseweb.com and cruise the forums there. There are a lot of folks that are doing the rehab routine, some a bit closer to true restoration than others but they usually have to tackle the heating/cooling issues as well.
Several of the members there also visit here.
As for ash issues it sometimes doesn't take long.
SmokeyTheBear
Minister of Fire
DannMarr said:
You need better air flow in the pot, it obviously isn't removing the ash fast enough or if it is one with autoclean you have issues there as it isn't cleaning frequently enough or at all.
If you have hi/low available you could switch to that instead of on/off for a T-stat mode.
jtakeman
Minister of Fire
jtakeman
Minister of Fire
sculptor said:
Thats a good thing. I was going to suggest adding but no need.
My last stab is fuel related again. Hopper bridging.Usually related to long pellet length. But one thing to try if it happens is to bang the side of the stove, If you hear something that sounds like glass breaking. You hopper is bridging. Just a stab at it, Probably is not your issue. I am all out of guesses. But that blank display and the blinking light sound puzzling. Hmmmmm? Wounder if the blinks are a code of some sort.
Hopefully smokeythebear has a few more suggestions.
Keep us posted.
jay
krooser
Minister of Fire
Just a couple of things, since he has the same stove as I do:
The little green light inside on the control board just means there's power to the board....it stays blinking all the time.
Running on 9-9 is not something I would do. Not saying the stove can't, but your shortening it's life much faster.
I run mine 24/7 now, and it has never gone out except for running out of pellets once. I have never had a firepot full of pellets.
My suggestion is to do a COMPLETE clean, include behind the ash trap doors with a rubber hose attached to a vacuum, plus the normal firepot and firebox cleaning.
Sculptor, maybe a review with the members of the forum on what your vent set-up is will help....how long are runs, how many and what angle elbows, etc, etc.
Since you say it runs during the daytime fine, what changes at night? Is it set for On-Off, or Hi-Lo?
The little green light inside on the control board just means there's power to the board....it stays blinking all the time.
Running on 9-9 is not something I would do. Not saying the stove can't, but your shortening it's life much faster.
I run mine 24/7 now, and it has never gone out except for running out of pellets once. I have never had a firepot full of pellets.
My suggestion is to do a COMPLETE clean, include behind the ash trap doors with a rubber hose attached to a vacuum, plus the normal firepot and firebox cleaning.
Sculptor, maybe a review with the members of the forum on what your vent set-up is will help....how long are runs, how many and what angle elbows, etc, etc.
Since you say it runs during the daytime fine, what changes at night? Is it set for On-Off, or Hi-Lo?
Wood Nugget
Member
This is from my Lopi/avalon trouble shooting guide. "stove works fine during the day but goes out at night leaving an unburnt pile of pellets. (due to cooler night temperature, draft increases.)" Close the restrictor at night. the stove is getting too much air.
Wood Nugget said:
Nice find Wood Nugget, but these stoves don't have a manual air control. Like I said above, I have the exact same stove, and have no issues w/ it going out at night.....has to be something else.
macman said:
nice idea macman. The venting is 36" horizontal run. I have it running to the back of an existing fireplace and out. This is the maximum allowed but was advised it to be ok by the vent kit guy. A clean out tee, a 36" vertical w/elbow and vent end cap.
I have done the thorough cleaning as described by the manual with added info by forum members. I did the leaf blower trick (which was fun!) and is fired back up and is running fine. It has been running since I posted. I do not understand what set for On-Off, or Hi-Lo means. I will take notes of everything the next time it happens...if it does.
SmokeyTheBear
Minister of Fire
Some folks run their stoves using a thermostat, stoves frequently have 2 modes when running on a thermostat, on/off and hi/lo.
In on/off mode when the thermostat reaches its set point the stove is shut down, it gets turned on when the thermostat calls for heat. If there is too much build up in the burn pot it has been known to prevent the stove from restarting, end result is a cold stove with a burn pot full of unburned pellets, and likely one frosty mad owner.
In hi/lo mode the stove is always running at the low burn rate set point (you set it by moving the burn rate) the stove enters maximum burn when ever the thermostat calls for heat, once the thermostat is happy the stove reverts to the low burn rate set point. In this mode there is always a fire in the fire pot, so built up ash can't prevent re ignition, end result is a running stove and a warm owner.
In on/off mode when the thermostat reaches its set point the stove is shut down, it gets turned on when the thermostat calls for heat. If there is too much build up in the burn pot it has been known to prevent the stove from restarting, end result is a cold stove with a burn pot full of unburned pellets, and likely one frosty mad owner.
In hi/lo mode the stove is always running at the low burn rate set point (you set it by moving the burn rate) the stove enters maximum burn when ever the thermostat calls for heat, once the thermostat is happy the stove reverts to the low burn rate set point. In this mode there is always a fire in the fire pot, so built up ash can't prevent re ignition, end result is a running stove and a warm owner.
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