I don't believe it - VC Defiant Encore puffing solved?

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slindo

Member
Mar 14, 2008
171
Maine
I let the stove die the other morning so I could clean the glass, and while I had it cold was looking around to see if I could figure out why it was puffing. The Defiant Encore, like most VC woodstoves has a pretty complicated air intake tract - the air comes in the thermostatically controlled door at the bottom rear, comes up through both sides (which have an inner and outer wall), then past a removable cover that gives access to the damper mechanism, through into a manifold that goes across the whole front of the stove, and in intended to direct the incoming air downward in order to keep the windows clean.

At both ends, where the front manifold joins the sides, there were gaps where the iron parts went together and the stove cement had eroded away over the years. I never paid much attention to this area of the stove apart before since it doesn't have to come apart at rebuild, so I hadn't really noticed the gaps let alone resealed them. If I had noticed them, I probably would have said "well the air is getting in anyhow so what difference does it make". But having noticed the gaps, I figured I should reseal them, which I did.

Fired the stove up, and it was transformed! I'd mentioned here earlier that if didn't seem to want to get really hot, now it does effortlessly. And no more puffing, even turned low.

I am at a loss to explain how such a small change could make such a difference. Even if all the air coming into the stove was coming out the cracks rather than out the manifold where it was supposed to, it would still be getting into the firebox, and only a few inches away from where it would otherwise emerge. The only thing I can think of, is that possibly by leaking out a few inches higher the incoming air was getting sucked directly up the flue, and not making it down to where the primary combustion was taking places, so that primary combustion was being starved even as there was plenty of air at the top of the stove.

One more reminder that stoves - iron ones especially - are perverse and illogical devices, and one must not take anything for granted.
 
slindo said:
... stoves - iron ones especially - are perverse and illogical devices, and one must not take anything for granted.

I just changed the thermostat on my VC Vigilant a few days ago (the old one was broken and cobbed together by me at the beginning of the season), and since I needed to let the stove cool completely to adjust the chain for the draft opening, I decided to change the gaskets on the front doors, even though they didn't seem to need it.

Well, the stove is running better than ever. Finally, decent secondary burns with flue temps staying up in the 350-400º range for at least a couple of hours. I'll assume it was the new gaskets, but who knows. The thermostatic draft control may be smarter than I thought it was, or at least, it's smarter than me second guessing where it should be at each stage.

Even though I am totally satisfied with this stove, next season I will rebuild the entire thing and see what happens to the burn then. Maybe after all that work it'll start to run like crap. Perverse and illogical? I tend to agree. The only consistent thing I notice about them is that they seems to work best when run just shy of actually abusing them.

BTW, congrats on solving your problem.
 
Battenkiller said:
slindo said:
... stoves - iron ones especially - are perverse and illogical devices, and one must not take anything for granted.

I just changed the thermostat on my VC Vigilant a few days ago (the old one was broken and cobbed together by me at the beginning of the season), and since I needed to let the stove cool completely to adjust the chain for the draft opening, I decided to change the gaskets on the front doors, even though they didn't seem to need it.

Well, the stove is running better than ever. Finally, decent secondary burns with flue temps staying up in the 350-400º range for at least a couple of hours. I'll assume it was the new gaskets, but who knows. The thermostatic draft control may be smarter than I thought it was, or at least, it's smarter than me second guessing where it should be at each stage.

Even though I am totally satisfied with this stove, next season I will rebuild the entire thing and see what happens to the burn then. Maybe after all that work it'll start to run like crap. Perverse and illogical? I tend to agree. The only consistent thing I notice about them is that they seems to work best when run just shy of actually abusing them.

BTW, congrats on solving your problem.


I think I've hit some questionable wood in my stacks. It either stays at 550 degrees or crashes to 300 when I switch to horizontal. 550 keeps the room it is in at 85 degrees. If I can get it back down to 400-450 the room settles nicely to 75-80.
 
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