I don't think so but...

[iod0816]

if my overnight burns are ~600-700 consistenly for ~4 hours (reload no less than 400), with blower, dampers shut, secondaries a blazing (not crazy but somthing I could fall asleep to) and I wake up to ~250 degrees stove temp 8ish hours later with more than enough coals to get another fire started within 5-10 minutes do I have issues with the following:

Moisture Content?
"Over draft"? i.e. Florida Bungalow Syndrome...
Draft period?

I have a 20ft masonry chimney, Foreverflex liner and the stove in my signiture. I'm burning no less than 18 month CSS and covered red maple and shagbark hickory with thje occasional black birch this year. It's all stacked on a pallet, covered for no less than 18 months.

I do not think so but I don't have a MM or Manometer to measure it all... Just from good old light weigthed, bat sounding wood that's dried and the fact that I can shut it down to a point where the secondaries don't curl above the baffle and "wash" the window. But it's all nothing I cannot control via burn rate or blower...

 

[firefighterjake]

I'd say with an eight hour burn time I would be pretty darn happy and wouldn't worry to much . . . especially since you report very good secondaries, your wood has been CSS for over a year and you don't mention anything about your glass gunking up.

 

[pen]

Those conditions sound like you are doing everything perfect. If this is a new setup for you, just be sure to do a mid-season sweep on that chimney to make sure that it too is doing as fine a job as the rest of the system seems to.

Well done.

pen

 

[Stump_Branch]

If your curious, thinking you cant control the fire. Check the primary air control make sure its on track. Sometimes its loose or off, it happens more often than you think.

 

[iod0816]

Yep, clear window, and I did a cleaning about 4 weeks ago and came out with a cup of ash and maybe a teaspoon of black crystals (creosote I know). No, not a new setup, 3 years old but someone had posed the question to me.

I mean, once the fire's going, no one can truly snuff it out with the EPA stuff sure but if I time it right before the internal temps are at crusing range, I can snuff it considerably, almost out. Which tells me my draft is spot on.

 

[Hogwildz]

Reloading at 400 or higher is just aching for accumulation of coals. If you learn to burn in longer cycles, you will get much better than 8 hrs times, and no huge buildup of coals.
I been reloading between 200 and 300.

 

[kingquad]

Reloading at 400 or higher is just aching for accumulation of coals. If you learn to burn in longer cycles, you will get much better than 8 hrs times, and no huge buildup of coals.
I been reloading between 200 and 300.

This^.

If I reloaded at 400, my stove temps would rocket to about 900+. Ask me how I know.

 

[Wood Duck]

I don't know how large your stove is so I can't comment on whether you should expect an even longer burn, but 8 hrs ain't bad and it sounds like things are running just fine.

 

[kingquad]

Keep in mind that split size can have a pretty dramatic effect on burn time. My stove is about the same size as yours. If I load it with a few large slabs and fill in the rest with medium splits, I will still be at 250 11-12 hours later with my blower between low and medium.

 

[iod0816]

2.5 cu ft firebox I think?? Well, 400 is relative. It's a magnetic thermo and depending on where its placed as well, it could be +/- 100 or so degrees right? I'll put it this way, I judge my reload when dropping a split to the rear of my stove won't get my arm burned on the top by touching the stove or bottom by the heat... with gloves, ha!

kingquad, that's about what I do. Two large ones in the back, med throughout. 1.5 times the size of a forearm (another relative term) is how I split them for the med, larger of course, larger.

Depending on what I put in the stove for wood, i.e. Shagbark, I can easily reach stove temp of 200-250 11 hours later. So great, very similar. I guess with being so distracted with all the BK owners saying 30 hours and not knowing the temps they burn at for a cycle, I was more or less wondering what non-cat stoves push for useful temps throughout the cycle and if I'm burning like everyone else. Seems I am.

Thanks for the responses!

 

[Huntindog1]

Its been said on here before that 50% of your heat is the coal stage. So to want to keep flames a roaring for 8 hours is hard to do. What happens is as the gases slowly escape out of the wood and burns up in the top of the stove , then the flame is going to die out but since all the creosote forming gases is out of the wood there is no worry at that time about your going to form creosote in the flue. I really think leaving the air open a tad bit more for the night cycle is going to get you more heat out of the stove as if the stove is hotter its going to burn more efficiently thus supplying more heat. Its a happy medium that your gonna have to experiment with to find the best setting to leave you with enough coals for re-start.

Another strategy I use is too run the stove extra hot and time my load so I am left with coals about 30 minute before bed for reload. By running extra hot as my stove is in the basement, I build up the heat in the thermal mass of the house thats gonna help keep the house warm over night. Just think about when you let the stove go cold for the day and maybe the weather turned off cold again and the thermal mass of the house is cold and how hard it is to get the house warmed back up from being cold. Well it works the reverse direction of get the house's thermal mass heated a little higher up before you go to bed.

 

[begreen]

Yes, I think you may have a problem. It's called hyper-fierochondria. Also known as being a fire-bug. Welcome to the club, sounds like you are hooked and getting a handle on the new stove.

 

[firefighterjake]

Yes, I think you may have a problem. It's called hyper-fierochondria. Also known as being a fire-bug. Welcome to the club, sounds like you are hooked and getting a handle on the new stove.

Actually I think the correct term is pyromaniac . . .