I finally took the leap!

[Prishie]

Hi! New to this forum. After freezing my polar vortex off this winter in Connecticut and going to my daughter and son-in-law's warm, wood burning home every once in a while to thaw out, I took the leap and bought a used, mint condition Quadra Fire Cumberland Gap free standing wood stove (see attached pic) I have an existing clay lined chimney in excellent condition in my family room that the previous owner installed for a wood stove, but never used, and last year I had a new chimney cap installed when they were here sweeping my fireplace in my living room. So now I just need to install a SS liner (thanks to all on this forum.....I've been hovering over this site all winter). It will be a rear vent and then straight up about 15 ft (guessing). My question is, I had an installer come that I believe is top notch. He gave me a price of $1,350.00. I just want to see if this is a fair price. Being a woman, I'm about as comfortable with this as I am shopping for car tires. seeing as this is an existing chimney with a straight shot up and existing new cap, just wondering if this price is reasonable. BTW, I live in Guilford, CT, if that helps with the pricing. Thanks for any advice as I am Clueless In Connecticut!!

 

[Bobbin]

Nice photo, you must live south of the Maine border... (only kidding, I'm still freaked out by the picture thing). Always good to see one of the sisterhood chime in.
1.) Do you have your firewood ready for next winter?
(get busy on this! dry firewood is key to success, first year usually sucks, so get busy!)
2.) Regulars will soon chime in and likely repeat #1.

 

[webby3650]

Ya, dry wood is very important!
That sounds like a normal price for that liner. You will need a new cap that is made for the liner. Save your old cap and sell it, or see if the installer would buy it from you.

 

[Prishie]

Ya, dry wood is very important!
That sounds like a normal price for that liner. You will need a new cap that is made for the liner. Save your old cap and sell it, or see if the installer would buy it from you.

Thanks! I forgot to ask the installer if the liner was insulated or not. Is that important or even a valid question? And why wouldn't my new chimney cap work? He didn't mention a change needed.

 

[bholler]

Sounds like a reasonable price. What are the specs of the install though? What type of liner? Will it be insulated? Also what size clay liner is in the chimney? If it really is in excellent condition you may be able to use it as is.

 

[xman23]

Welcome. Yes the insulated SS chimney is real pricey, most of the time more than the stove. Plus a few other parts, ceiling box, roof flange, chimney support, etc. Of course with the price per ft you can compare. And then there is the installation cost. The obvious reason to use insulated chimney is to have a cool outside, but as important it keeps the chimney inside hotter to prevent condensing of the flue gasses. That said many people here install non insulated flex liners in masonry chimneys. I would think they are a lot cheaper. Maybe someone here that has one can explain the pro's and cons.

 

[bholler]

Well she needs a ss liner not an insulated chimney she already has a masonry chimney. And in my opinion all ss liners should be insulated it will help for performance and reduce creosote buildup.

 

[Woody Stover]

You said 'straight up' so maybe rigid chimney pipe, not a flex liner? Will the stove be sitting on the hearth of a masonry chimney? You would need a tee, the liner, top plate, storm collar and maybe a chimney cap. It's usually good to have it insulated if the masonry chimney is on an exterior wall. Does the install include a block-off plate to keep the heat in the room? Some pics would help. Did he give you a written estimate?

 

[bholler]

I assumed that the stove would be vented into the crock behind it in her picture so no block off plate needed just the liner and obviously all the components to go with it. (tee, tee snout. tee cap top plate top clamp storm collar cap and anything else I missed) And I think they should be insulated regardless of internal or external chimney

 

[xman23]

I wonder how those flex pipes don't get gunked up with all those ridges. So if your not getting a insulated chimney, why line a good masonry chimney at all? Just to reduced the size for a better draft. How much better is it?

 

[Woody Stover]

Not sure if that is a CL pic or what? She says "fireplace."
You will also need to make sure the install meets requirements for clearance to combustibles and floor protection.

 

[bholler]

yes but she also says fp in the living room chimney for stove in family room

 

[bholler]

And yes check all the clearances and the clearances to combustibles to the chimney as well that would be the determining factor at weather or not to first install a liner and second weather or not to insulate it

 

[BrotherBart]

To address the question. It is a fair price for lining the chimney. As mentioned insulation wrap on the liner is the best way, but probably not included in the installer's quote.

Welcome to the forum and you bought a great woodstove.

 

[Chimney Smoke]

I still don't understand why everyone feels the need to line a perfectly good masonry chimney? If you burn dry wood at a reasonably hot temperature you won't have any more creosote problems than you will with a liner.

 

[webby3650]

I still don't understand why everyone feels the need to line a perfectly good masonry chimney? If you burn dry wood at a reasonably hot temperature you won't have any more creosote problems than you will with a liner.

Because many stove manufacturers recommend it, some require it. They are designed to operate on a 6" or 8" flue, most of the time the masonry flue is not properly sized.
Sure it will work, it's just not optimizing the efficiency of the stove.

 

[webby3650]

Thanks! I forgot to ask the installer if the liner was insulated or not. Is that important or even a valid question? And why wouldn't my new chimney cap work? He didn't mention a change needed.

It's possible to reuse it, but your new liner should come with its own components. It will have a top plate that clamps to the liner and a cap that's made to fit that. If he's using rigid liner, then it's not uncommon to reuse the old cap.

 

[Grisu]

I still don't understand why everyone feels the need to line a perfectly good masonry chimney? If you burn dry wood at a reasonably hot temperature you won't have any more creosote problems than you will with a liner.

In addition to what webby said, a lined chimney will also be easier to clean and offer additional protection in case of a chimney fire.

 

[fossil]

I still don't understand why everyone feels the need to line a perfectly good masonry chimney? If you burn dry wood at a reasonably hot temperature you won't have any more creosote problems than you will with a liner.

As webby alluded to above (P. #16), quite often the advisability of installing a liner stems from the difference in cross-sectional area between the existing flue and the appliance flue collar. A 6"diameter flue collar has a cross-sectional area of about 28 in². The recommendations in NFPA 211 are that if exhausting into a flue that has at least one side exposed to the elements, the flue cross-sectional area should be no more than twice that of the appliance flue collar. In the case of a 6" collar, that limit would be ~56 in², which could be a 6" x 9" flue. The reason this is of concern is simple fluid flow...when the cross-sectional area of the flue increases, the volume flow rate of the exhaust gases slows...this allows more time for the exhaust stream to lose heat as it finds its way to daylight, thus increasing the probability of creosote condensation in the flue. This is a strong argument from a system operational standpoint for installation of an appropriately sized liner, even in a masonry flue in pristine condition. It's not the condition in this case, it's the cross-sectional area. Rick

 

[Prishie]

Sounds like a reasonable price. What are the specs of the install though? What type of liner? Will it be insulated? Also what size clay liner is in the chimney? If it really is in excellent condition you may be able to use it as is.

The clay liner is about 7x9 (I think). The installer said he uses smooth liners, less buildup and easier cleaning.

 

[Prishie]

As webby alluded to above (P. #16), quite often the advisability of installing a liner stems from the difference in cross-sectional area between the existing flue and the appliance flue collar. A 6"diameter flue collar has a cross-sectional area of about 28 in². The recommendations in NFPA 211 are that if exhausting into a flue that has at least one side exposed to the elements, the flue cross-sectional area should be no more than twice that of the appliance flue collar. In the case of a 6" collar, that limit would be ~56 in², which could be a 6" x 9" flue. The reason this is of concern is simple fluid flow...when the cross-sectional area of the flue increases, the volume flow rate of the exhaust gases slows...this allows more time for the exhaust stream to lose heat as it finds its way to daylight, thus increasing the probability of creosote condensation in the flue. This is a strong argument from a system operational standpoint for installation of an appropriately sized liner, even in a masonry flue in pristine condition. It's not the condition in this case, it's the cross-sectional area. Rick

Thanks Rick! Would you mind rewriting your reply in English? Lol

 

[Prishie]

Because many stove manufacturers recommend it, some require it. They are designed to operate on a 6" or 8" flue, most of the time the masonry flue is not properly sized.
Sure it will work, it's just not optimizing the efficiency of the stove.

The quote says 'approx 23' with 6" 2-ply smooth wall stainless steel chimney reline system. Is this a good thing? I'm also interested in burning Evni Blocks. Your thoughts? I know they're pricier than wood but they're so much cleaner and can be stored in the house.

 

[fossil]

Would you mind rewriting your reply in English?

Linerz is gud.

 

[Prishie]

Linerz is gud.

Tru Dat!

 

[bobdog2o02]

Linerz is gud.

Murica