I just saw this at my local Farm store.

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It's a pricey fellow for a wood furnace with a rain jacket.
 
BeGreen said:
It's a pricey fellow for a wood furnace with a rain jacket.

For them people who want to save money, but are scared to have a stove inside. I think it will be nice for them new comers.
Plus aslong as its ten feet from the house most states insurance can't go up.
 
Which farm store was it?
 
Probably Tractor stand in line and wait supply. If get one of those, make sure you have tons of wood
 
any of you guys ran much sheet metal? parking this thing out side is the easy part, hooking it up to the existing furnace "correctly" is almost inpossibe in most cases. In Michigan we have a lot of stone foundation farms houses and the systems they have already are a mess.
Even on a newer house it's hard, do you run threw the "bond "or cut out the foundation and what else is in the way. If you had an unheated mud room and set this thing in there and could pop threw a wall -- then OK. I give this one two thumbs down.
 
I lack a basement so I've been considering one. They're so new I'm having trouble finding any actual user reviews. So far I do think I like them far better than the forced air units that sit next to the house and don't tie into existing ductwork. I'll still have a stove in the house, but I really miss my central wood furnace from my last house where I had a basement.
 
I thought a 9" diameter hole was big for my flue exiting my basement. I can't imaging running air ducting in and out of my house. That's a lot of cutting. And a lot of heat will be lost to mother nature on the way in.


It's also interesting to see product "references", "endorsements" or otherwise shout-outs as first posts. Not saying this is a bad thing...just noticing.
 
I've seen quite a few that come with flexible insulated ducts for the installation. Never in a million years would I trust a setup like that. We run a woodfurnace, but its indoors. All heat that leaves the furnace itself is in the home and not lost to the outside. There are some positives having them outdoors, but they have alot of things against them also.
 
laynes69 said:
I've seen quite a few that come with flexible insulated ducts for the installation. Never in a million years would I trust a setup like that. We run a woodfurnace, but its indoors. All heat that leaves the furnace itself is in the home and not lost to the outside. There are some positives having them outdoors, but they have alot of things against them also.

Yes, they do have a flexible duct. You would definatley go through alot more wood. There also would be alot of heat loss.
Not a wood stove for me. Like I said for some it might fit like a glove.
 
Seen a few variations of that design....... About as useless as tits on a boar hog............and that's the nicest thing I can say about the whole idea of installing a forced air system outside.

Think about it. ...... They list an 1800cfm blower. That means you need duct work that is roughly 200sq inches at minimum. Supply and return. Not one but two holes in your house or foundation that are large enough to get a 10 x 20" duct plus insulation so you are talking about something probably 14" x 46"?? Sealing up a hole that size with something rodent proof is not fun or easy to do. And how are you going to insulate it? A couple inches of fiberglass duct wrap isn't going to do it. If you lose only 10* of air temp in your supply run you've lost 18,000 btu's which is realistically 20%+ of the things actual output. They probably send 12" flex duct for installation.........what a joke. One of the units I saw used fiberglass flex duct and after the first winter it was so full of mouse holes that 1/2 the air was leaking outside.

I could go on but you may be able to figure out what I think of these things from what I have posted above. Save your money. Don't be a sucker.
 
heaterman said:
Seen a few variations of that design....... About as useless as tits on a boar hog............and that's the nicest thing I can say about the whole idea of installing a forced air system outside.

Think about it. ...... They list an 1800cfm blower. That means you need duct work that is roughly 200sq inches at minimum. Supply and return. Not one but two holes in your house or foundation that are large enough to get a 10 x 20" duct plus insulation so you are talking about something probably 14" x 46"?? Sealing up a hole that size with something rodent proof is not fun or easy to do. And how are you going to insulate it? A couple inches of fiberglass duct wrap isn't going to do it. If you lose only 10* of air temp in your supply run you've lost 18,000 btu's which is realistically 20%+ of the things actual output. They probably send 12" flex duct for installation.........what a joke. One of the units I saw used fiberglass flex duct and after the first winter it was so full of mouse holes that 1/2 the air was leaking outside.

I could go on but you may be able to figure out what I think of these things from what I have posted above. Save your money. Don't be a sucker.




ROFL....... well put & spot on too, BTW.

Why is there a never ending sea of s--ty products to sift through on this side of the pond & try & warn the home owner against?

Getting to be a full time job in many of the trades (warning ppl about garbage).

Funny in a way though that full time job I just referenced does not exist in say Germany/Austria & a host of other nations across the pond, as products like this never get certified for sale & are therefore illegal to sell/install.

OK... time for some of you to jump in with your rant about how you would never accept that much govt interference in your life.... while you clean & load you gun. :roll:
 
Hey Mill Heat.........seriously, I apologize for being blunt and I'm not trying to put you down, but I really do mean what I said. Look elsewhere and latch onto a different plan. Canuck is absolutely right when he says a product like that wouldn't even be able to be sold much less manufactured in Europe where they take heating seriously. Overall efficiency is right down there on the level of the worst outdoor boilers which is to say around 30% or worse when you account for duct losses.

You would be far better off just putting a little wood stove in your house and letting it do its thing. If you want to go outside you really need to do it with a water based system. You need an 8X18" duct to carry the same amount of heat available in a 1" diameter water line. Forced air systems are so "old school". Going to cost more up front. No two ways about it but at least you'll have something that works and will heat your house.
 
Aside from the troubles of installing such a unit and all the heat loss, I would not like having to go outdoors to stock up the stove! Imagine doing that when having an ice storm. Or what about those cold January days with the wind chill at -20F. Now add to all that the fact that you will probably go through twice the amount of wood you presently do. That is a lot of work for very little benefit.


heaterman, you must be a farmer or know someone who is. That is an old saying that most folks never hear nowadays. Pity the boar hogs. lol
 
heaterman said:
Hey Mill Heat.........seriously, I apologize for being blunt and I'm not trying to put you down, but I really do mean what I said. Look elsewhere and latch onto a different plan. Canuck is absolutely right when he says a product like that wouldn't even be able to be sold much less manufactured in Europe where they take heating seriously. Overall efficiency is right down there on the level of the worst outdoor boilers which is to say around 30% or worse when you account for duct losses.

You would be far better off just putting a little wood stove in your house and letting it do its thing. If you want to go outside you really need to do it with a water based system. You need an 8X18" duct to carry the same amount of heat available in a 1" diameter water line. Forced air systems are so "old school". Going to cost more up front. No two ways about it but at least you'll have something that works and will heat your house.

Why apologize to me? I'm not purchasing it. I saw it and thought for some people on a budget and can't afford an outdoor boiler, don't want a stove in the house, or have pressurized boiler outside in a shed. Its something out of my area of expertise. So I thought why not and post it. I have 3 stoves throughout my farm house and 2 in my pole barns. Also again since everyone keeps reading this like I'm going to buy it. I'M NOT BUYING THIS.
 
Mill_Heat said:
heaterman said:
Hey Mill Heat.........seriously, I apologize for being blunt and I'm not trying to put you down, but I really do mean what I said. Look elsewhere and latch onto a different plan. Canuck is absolutely right when he says a product like that wouldn't even be able to be sold much less manufactured in Europe where they take heating seriously. Overall efficiency is right down there on the level of the worst outdoor boilers which is to say around 30% or worse when you account for duct losses.

You would be far better off just putting a little wood stove in your house and letting it do its thing. If you want to go outside you really need to do it with a water based system. You need an 8X18" duct to carry the same amount of heat available in a 1" diameter water line. Forced air systems are so "old school". Going to cost more up front. No two ways about it but at least you'll have something that works and will heat your house.

Why apologize to me? I'm not purchasing it. I saw it and thought for some people on a budget and can't afford an outdoor boiler, don't want a stove in the house, or have pressurized boiler outside in a shed. Its something out of my area of expertise. So I thought why not and post it. I have 3 stoves throughout my farm house and 2 in my pole barns. Also again since everyone keeps reading this like I'm going to buy it. I'M NOT BUYING THIS.

Aha! My bad. Here's hoping that someone actually considering one of these will come across this thread in the future and be led down the straight an narrow path leading to heavenly hydronic bliss. :)
 
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