I Learned Something About Chain Sharpening...Thanks!

[DanCorcoran]

I've been dutifully trying to sharpen my chains with an Oregon file (made in Switzerland). Unfortunately, I couldn't tell that the chain was any sharper. After reading a bunch of posts on here, I tried something different.

First, I went out and bought a couple of new files (same brand, just new). Second, I was scrupulous about only filing in one direction with the file...in my case, I tried pushing the file for three strokes on each tooth.

Voila! ShaZaaam! I could feel the file really biting into the chain! Best of all, the chain cut great!

I realize that I had been using a worn out file that I had been pulling/pushing back and forth, rather than in just one direction. Hope these hints help someone else to touch up their chains at each new tank of gas.

 

[Thistle]

That was one of the first things I learned in high school metal shop. Only use files on the push stroke & lift it back to return,never drag it.Same with wood or cabinet rasps on wood.Files are cutting tools,they dont abrade like sandpaper,belts,discs or a grinding wheel does.

Plus keeping the file back up against the gullet & following factory grind angle makes a big difference in how chain will perform.

 

[TreePointer]

Oregon files are probably some of the softest out there. Try Save Edge, Stihl, or Pferd and see the difference.

Also, many round files have a spiral pattern which causes the file to rotate during the stroke; thus, decreasing the cutting efficacy of the stroke. This is particularly important when using a file guide that isn't tightened enough on the file.

 

[Flavo]

I just bought my 1st chisel chain today and plan on learning to sharpen myself. I could poke around and look for different sites and threads to teach myself to file. But if anyone has any links that are a sure thing to tell me what the heck to do, that would be great. There is so much mis-information out there.

 

[KarlP]

I find they don't last that long going in one direction either. I toss them after 5-10 sharpenings depending on the length of chain and how many rocks/nails I hit. Just order them online by the dozen.

 

[TreePointer]

I just bought my 1st chisel chain today and plan on learning to sharpen myself. I could poke around and look for different sites and threads to teach myself to file. But if anyone has any links that are a sure thing to tell me what the heck to do, that would be great. There is so much mis-information out there.

1. Watch this video: Stihl Video Library - Chapter 3: Sharpening Your Saw Chain

2. Get a sharpening kit (round file, file guide, flat file, depth gauge/bar groove tool) to match your chain pitch.

3. Clamp saw into heavy bench vise and get to it!


When I first started hand filing, I was pleased to find that it was easier than I had imagined.

 

[HittinSteel]

I've been dutifully trying to sharpen my chains with an Oregon file (made in Switzerland). Unfortunately, I couldn't tell that the chain was any sharper. After reading a bunch of posts on here, I tried something different.

First, I went out and bought a couple of new files (same brand, just new). Second, I was scrupulous about only filing in one direction with the file...in my case, I tried pushing the file for three strokes on each tooth.

Voila! ShaZaaam! I could feel the file really biting into the chain! Best of all, the chain cut great!

I realize that I had been using a worn out file that I had been pulling/pushing back and forth, rather than in just one direction. Hope these hints help someone else to touch up their chains at each new tank of gas.

A little upward pressure on the file as you push it forward helps as well :coolsmile:

 

[DanCorcoran]

A little upward pressure on the file as you push it forward helps as well :coolsmile:

I'll try that when I get back to the cabin...thanks.

 

[lukem]

Oregon files are probably some of the softest out there. Try Save Edge, Stihl, or Pferd and see the difference.

Also, many round files have a spiral pattern which causes the file to rotate during the stroke; thus, decreasing the cutting efficacy of the stroke. This is particularly important when using a file guide that isn't tightened enough on the file.

Can't comment on the Oregon files (never used them), but I agree that the Stihl files are great. They cost more but last forever compared to what you typically get at a hardware store. In the end I think you come out way ahead.

 

[Backwoods Savage]

Dan, I'm happy for you that you learned quickly how to file the chain right. Just that little bit of knowledge and skill will serve you well for the rest of your life, will save you dollars and will make your life much easier. You can't go wrong there.

 

[smokinj]

I like to have one hand on both sides of the bar one pushing the file and the other pulling. Seems to be easier to hold the angle. ( for me anyways)

 

[Kenster]

I've been dutifully trying to sharpen my chains with an Oregon file (made in Switzerland). Unfortunately, I couldn't tell that the chain was any sharper. After reading a bunch of posts on here, I tried something different.

First, I went out and bought a couple of new files (same brand, just new). Second, I was scrupulous about only filing in one direction with the file...in my case, I tried pushing the file for three strokes on each tooth.

Voila! ShaZaaam! I could feel the file really biting into the chain! Best of all, the chain cut great!

I realize that I had been using a worn out file that I had been pulling/pushing back and forth, rather than in just one direction. Hope these hints help someone else to touch up their chains at each new tank of gas.

It's amazing the results we get when we follow directions! I don't say that maliciously, Dan. Lord knows I've done a few boneheaded things in my life. The first time I ever put a new chain on my saw I thought I got screwed with some poorly made, reject chain. It wouldn't make the slightest dent in the oak log I wanted to buck. I couldn't figure out what the heck was going on. I decided I would throw myself open to be humiliated and posted my problem on this forum. It took less than a minute for a kindly brother-cutter to tell me: "YOU'VE GOT YOUR CHAIN ON BACKWARDS!!" The "BIG DUMMY!!" part was left unspoken but clearly implied.

It was amazing how well that saw cut once I turned the chain around!

 

[DanCorcoran]

[quote author="Kenster" date="1303423000"

It's amazing the results we get when we follow directions!
[/quote]

Well, I followed the instructions I read on here about only filing in one direction, but the problem was that, by then, the file was so dull it didn't cut at all. It wasn't until I sprung for the new files that it all came together. (And, yes, I have put the chain on backwards once, too). Cheers...

 

[Beardog]

I just learned something new today, thanks!

 

[Battenkiller]

I like to have one hand on both sides of the bar one pushing the file and the other pulling. Seems to be easier to hold the angle. ( for me anyways)

That's how the guy that's teaching me to carve does his chains. He also rotates the file counter-clockwise as he pushes. This helps to keep the file pulling up toward the cutter plate, plus a fresh edge is always presented to the cutter rather than one loaded up with metal filings. He uses the whole length of the file on every stroke, helps to keep all the cutters the same length that way. SaveEdge brand only with him. I'm getting better, but I always get a smile on my face when I grab a saw he's sharpened. Better than new IMO. I'm sure I'll get there in time, for now mine are almost good as new when I'm done. Nice thing about carving is you get lots of practice sharpening.


On my 357XP with regular 3/8" chain, I use the Pferd filing guide that lowers the rakers at the same time as you sharpen the cutters.


http://www.baileysonline.com/itemdetail.asp?item=17049&catID;=


This device works great on regular chain, but the carving chains need to be modified to cut without heat as the cutters go around a very tight radius (3/4") at the tip. To that end, the backs of the cutter plates are ground off at an angle for about 1/8", and the rakers are actually sharpened and left the same height for several sharpenings before they are given a light dressing. After that, the drive links are usually trashed from using 3/8" lo-pro on bigger saws than it was designed to be used on. A guy falling and bucking trees for firewood might have a chain last several seasons, but carvers go through chains in a month or two.

 

[TreePointer]

I like to have one hand on both sides of the bar one pushing the file and the other pulling. Seems to be easier to hold the angle. ( for me anyways)

+1 Same here.

 

[Intheswamp]

I like to have one hand on both sides of the bar one pushing the file and the other pulling. Seems to be easier to hold the angle. ( for me anyways)

+1 Same here.

+2 (or is it 3?)

I've been using WoodlandPro's and they see to be doing a good job and last what seems like a lot of sharpenings. I've got some Save Edges in the wings waiting, but it'll be a while before I break into them at the rate that I'm going.

Ed

 

[Woody Stover]

I just bought my 1st chisel chain today and plan on learning to sharpen myself.

I don't know what brand of chain you've got, but the Stihl chain comes with an instruction sheet with all the angles for the all the chains they make.
You'll love the chisel chain. It eats like mad, but you've got to respect it and be aware of where the top of the bar nose is at all times. It'll throw the saw back at ya if you're not careful. :bug:

 

[jlove1974]

tap the file on the bar or truck tailgate every 3rd tooth or so to remove metal filings from building up on the chain.

 

[mecreature]

very satisfying when you get the knack of it.
every tanks is a good idea. don't wait till its bad to put and edge on it.

knock the raker down a click every so often makes a big difference too.