I MADE THINGS A LOT WORSE!!!!!!!!!!!!

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oldspark said:
Excuse me if this was asked, how is that setting on the stone, could it be raised up to check underneath?

I can see if I can get some one to help me to raise it up.
 
oldspark said:
AppalachianStan said:
Troutchaser said:
I'd say it's likely that you're new gaskets stopped some air leakage into the stove that used to keep your fire stoked.
Leave the bypass open until a good bed of coals and fresh stuff burning. With a small fire/little heat, closing that bypass can snuff a fire.

That what I am doing right now. so far so good. It is 47* outside. damper and air is wide open, Stove top at 350* and stove pipe at 250* 5 mins in to the burn. useing just wood.
Those temps look real good so far, what did you do different?

Same old start up nothing different except for I am using real fire wood no ECO bricks. Same kindle
 
Stove top temps just drop to 300* wood is starved for air now. The chimney has two small leaks about an 1" long. One at the top pipe joint and one at the bottom pipe joint. I used incense to find them. Stove is holding at 300* everything wide open?
 
AppalachianStan said:
Stove top temps just drop to 300* wood is starved for air now. The chimney has two small leaks about an 1" long. One at the top pipe joint and one at the bottom pipe joint. I used incense to find them. Stove is holding at 300* everything wide open?
You can plug those leaks right, good place to start and cheap furnace cement will do it, 300 wide open is not good, not sure any thing you do is going to make it better, a stove working even half assed should get hotter than that wide open.
 
Yes the furnace cement is cheaper then the stove pipe. Will this make a different it is usually colder in my house then outside?
 
AppalachianStan said:
Yes the furnace cement is cheaper then the stove pipe. Will this make a different it is usually colder in my house then outside?
That is not helping one bit.
 
With my old fisher, you could look straight up the flue if you stuck your head in the stove. Only thing that kept stuff from flying straight up the chimney was a pipe damper.

Even w/ that as inefficient as it was, I could make that thing glow I so choose.

Point is, w/ your bypass open you should be basically in the same situation I was in assuming your fire is getting air, your fuel is dry enough to burn.

Does air get drawn into your unit through the front where you control lever is? Do you have an air compressor? I'm wondering if this thing has sat and there is something in there blocking the air getting in. If you don't have an air compressor, at least try a hair dryer and see if blowing air right into the intake makes a difference with the fire. Maybe there are air intakes in this stove that are blocked by ash?

Another thought, how much wood are you putting in the stove? If you are only putting in a few pieces of wood and it isn't well seasoned, you aren't going to do well. How full have you loaded it up on hot coals?
How are you loading the wood? If the firebox is deep enough, I'd suggest loading it front to back (north-south).

What kind of wood are you using? How long has it been drying? Maybe try splitting it smaller? If you just jut putting rounds and not splits into the stove, that can make a big difference as well.

You'll get there! Be patient and keep playing!

pen
 
pen said:
With my old fisher, you could look straight up the flue if you stuck your head in the stove. Only thing that kept stuff from flying straight up the chimney was a pipe damper.

Even w/ that as inefficient as it was, I could make that thing glow I so choose.

Point is, w/ your bypass open you should be basically in the same situation I was in assuming your fire is getting air, your fuel is dry enough to burn.

Does air get drawn into your unit through the front where you control lever is? Do you have an air compressor? I'm wondering if this thing has sat and there is something in there blocking the air getting in. If you don't have an air compressor, at least try a hair dryer and see if blowing air right into the intake makes a difference with the fire. Maybe there are air intakes in this stove that are blocked by ash?

Another thought, how much wood are you putting in the stove? If you are only putting in a few pieces of wood and it isn't well seasoned, you aren't going to do well. How full have you loaded it up on hot coals?
How are you loading the wood? If the firebox is deep enough, I'd suggest loading it front to back (north-south).

What kind of wood are you using? How long has it been drying? Maybe try splitting it smaller? If you just jut putting rounds and not splits into the stove, that can make a big difference as well.

You'll get there! Be patient and keep playing!

pen

The fire wood is between 1 and 2 years old. The guy I got it from is a friend of mien. before the new gaskets have put 6 splits in and got it up to 550* stove top. Eco bricks 2 bricks so far. With the ECO bricks I used some thing from Lowe's to start the fire yesterday. N/S Is how I have been loading this way after I read it here. It was working better good until the new gaskets. As for the cats bypass when it is open it opens up in to the fire box.
 
Any way to check to make sure the air intake isn't restricted or plugged w/ ash somewhere? Have you figured out where the air enters the stove?

Also, when using the eco bricks I'd mix them in w/ reg wood.

pen
 
pen said:
Any way to check to make sure the air intake isn't restricted or plugged w/ ash somewhere? Have you figured out where the air enters the stove?

Also, when using the eco bricks I'd mix them in w/ reg wood.

pen

Using an hair dryer got some glowing red embers. this is all the air intake I can find.
 

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with temps near 50, you don't have that much draft to work with but still see no reason this cant get up to 550 if the fuel is good (which is sounds like it is) and air is getting to the fire, and the fuel is loaded in a way that is conducive to burning.

Next time you load it on coals take a pic of how you have the wood loaded in there. For small burns when it's not that cold, I like using 3 splits, 2 on the bottom, one on the top like and upside down V. That's about the minimum I'll put in the stove at any time.

Another option is to just give up until it gets down into the 30's, then load the stove right up and see what a full box will do for you.

pen
 
I wish some of you wood stove sciences lived around me so you can come over an help me out. I will try the V thing got to get the wood burn up thats in there.
 
Has any one every seen a wood stove side windows gaskets 3/4 on the windows and not at the top? The old gaskets where missing at the top of the side window. I just assumed after 26 years that the gaskets was burn off at the top. If air come in at the top of the windows it would cause the glass to be black right?
 
might have actually served as a primitive air wash.

The same amount was missing on both side windows?

pen
 
pen said:
might have actually served as a primitive air wash.

The same amount was missing on both side windows?

pen

Yes the same amount was missing on both side windows. So you seen this before?
 
AppalachianStan said:
pen said:
might have actually served as a primitive air wash.

The same amount was missing on both side windows?

pen

Yes the same amount was missing on both side windows. So you seen this before?

Not personally, but I wouldn't doubt it's possible. If the same amount is missing from both sides that certainly seems as though that it as it should be.

pen
 
I will try calling Appalachian tomorrow to mack sure.
 
Seems like this stove needs a lot of work and it will require a good amount of money to get the stove functioning properly with the catalysts.

At this point, you would be better off spending the same or less on a one of the nice used stoves I provided links to a few weeks ago.
 
BrowningBAR said:
Seems like this stove needs a lot of work and it will require a good amount of money to get the stove functioning properly with the catalysts.

At this point, you would be better off spending the same or less on a one of the nice used stoves I provided links to a few weeks ago.

That what I am starting to see myself. It kind a reminds me of one of those old car you keep putting money and nothing help. Nickel and dime you to the poor house.

My options are few for a wood stove with an 8" SS class A chimney.

http://pittsburgh.craigslist.org/hsh/2721645246.html

http://athensga.craigslist.org/app/2729294217.html

I might be able to buy one at tax time if I get any money back. Just don't have the money to go out right now an buy one. Have to use it until I can do better. What to do with the old one scrap it? I just could not pass it on like it is.

I have thought of drilling holes in the front on the door and put some knobs to be able to control the air intake but then you have to worry about over firring the stove.
 
If you run your wood stove with door open does the fire burn okay, or still starving for air? Bio bricks are tough to light because they are so dense. You need kindling wood to establish coals. Looked up your stove and it says it has a cat. If they have been removed you could have a build up of ash in the ports. You said the stove ran fine before the new gaskets. in what condition was the old ones like. They could of been leaking before new install.
 
The after burner said:
If you run your wood stove with door open does the fire burn okay,

Yes it burns like a rocket.

The after burner said:
Bio bricks are tough to light because they are so dense. You need kindling wood to establish coals.

First time using them. Yes it was hard to lit.


The after burner said:
Looked up your stove and it says it has a cat. If they have been removed you could have a build up of ash in the ports. You said the stove ran fine before the new gaskets. in what condition was the old ones like. They could of been leaking before new install.

I have know ideal the cats was missing when I bought the stove. Not sure about the ash build up the drawing of the air intake you can see it makes can of hard to get down in it to clean.
 
Sorry if I get old but it is getting cold in my house. I am At 65* inside my house. What would you do if you had my stove?
 
AppalachianStan said:
Sorry if I get old but it is getting cold in my house. I am At 65* inside my house. What would you do if you had my stove?

I'd be asking for help on Hearth.com and doing what you are doing.

I think calling Appalachian is a smart move. If the problem is as simple as the gaskets you closed up, that's simple enough.

This stove will run no where near its actual efficiency w/out the cat, but it can run, and can give you heat in the meantime so long as you figure out what it takes to get some air into that thing.

I think you will find that gasket needs to come out that you added.

I would also find a buddy w/ an air compressor (portable pancake style or similar) and I'd blow air through that beast to make sure the air isn't restricted somewhere. God knows what is in that thing being a used unit.

I'd also make sure my fuel is split small so that you have the best chance at a hot burn fast.

You gotta do what you gotta do. Keep safety first in mind, keep that chimney clean, and so long as the instal is safe you can burn it however you are able to to get through the winter.

I'm an advocate of doing it right. But sometimes there comes a time where just worrying about safety and doing the best one can is the most practical thing. I have seen MUCH worse setups being used for years at a time. You are concerned enough to be asking here so I'm figuring you'll keep a careful eye on the chimney and clearance to combustibles, etc as well.

pen
 
AppalachianStan said:
Sorry if I get old but it is getting cold in my house. I am At 65* inside my house. What would you do if you had my stove?

If the option is replacing the stove at tax time and you will not pass the stove along and may scrap it..... Just run it with the door cracked open and get the most heat out of it that you can. I have been following this thread and just can not figure out what else to advise you. (I am certainly not even close to an expert.)
 
pen you got that right about safety. I have a air compressor just don't' know if it will work but I well try anything At this point. waiting on it to cool down before I do that. As for the cat's they want do much until I can get it up to temp for them to run and I am concerned about damage them with the air problem. If the air compressor does not clean out any thing I am going to take out the upper gasket on the windows for now and call Appalachian tomorrow to see if they will tell me anything on it.
 
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