I MADE THINGS A LOT WORSE!!!!!!!!!!!!

[jtb51b]

Can you run a cat stove at 350*? That is how hot I can get it I can't get any hotter. It does not take in enough air to burn.
Thanks for you help. Stan

YES YES YES..

You are measuring the STOVE CASE. The Cat will see a lot higher temps and therefore reach its lightoff point.. At that point you will see the stovetop temps just up to much closer to the operating range. On a stove like yours the cat heats the stove not the other way around, at least past the point of holding the fire long enough to warm the CAT.. I hope I explained this in the way I was hoping, I am not so good with words...

Jason

 

[AppalachianStan]

Can you run a cat stove at 350*? That is how hot I can get it I can't get any hotter. It does not take in enough air to burn.
Thanks for you help. Stan

YES YES YES..

You are measuring the STOVE CASE. The Cat will see a lot higher temps and therefore reach its lightoff point.. At that point you will see the stovetop temps just up to much closer to the operating range. On a stove like yours the cat heats the stove not the other way around, at least past the point of holding the fire long enough to warm the CAT.. I hope I explained this in the way I was hoping, I am not so good with words...

Jason

Now this gives me a little hope for this stove. Just wish I know for sure you are right. Thank for you help. Stan

 

[North of 60]

Can you run a cat stove at 350*? That is how hot I can get it I can't get any hotter. It does not take in enough air to burn.
Thanks for you help. Stan

You are putting the heat up your stack. No cat, bypass open. Nothing is gonna heat up that stove without melting your chimney.

I run my stove @ 300 to 350f most of the year. Stack @ 225, even less once into the burn.
Again, you are running with less than 1/2 the stove. Its not gonna give you the normal outcome of a regular stove. Hard to answer your questions with all of your variables.

 

[AppalachianStan]

Can you run a cat stove at 350*? That is how hot I can get it I can't get any hotter. It does not take in enough air to burn.
Thanks for you help. Stan

You are putting the heat up your stack. No cat, bypass open. Nothing is gonna heat up that stove without melting your chimney.

I run my stove @ 300 to 350f most of the year. Stack @ 225, even less once into the burn.
Again, you are running with less than 1/2 the stove. Its not gonna give you the normal outcome of a regular stove. Hard to answer your questions with all of your variables.

Oh great now I have to worry about melting my chimney. You cat people art to know more about the cat stove then I do. Thanks for you help. Stan

 

[jtb51b]

Can you run a cat stove at 350*? That is how hot I can get it I can't get any hotter. It does not take in enough air to burn.
Thanks for you help. Stan

YES YES YES..

You are measuring the STOVE CASE. The Cat will see a lot higher temps and therefore reach its lightoff point.. At that point you will see the stovetop temps just up to much closer to the operating range. On a stove like yours the cat heats the stove not the other way around, at least past the point of holding the fire long enough to warm the CAT.. I hope I explained this in the way I was hoping, I am not so good with words...

Jason

Now this gives me a little hope for this stove. Just wish I know for sure you are right. Thank for you help. Stan

Back when my stove was all correct I recoded some numbers for my own benefit. If I was running at 1.5 on my thermostat (range of 1-3) I had a cat temp of about 1200 degrees and a stovetop of 500 degrees, my stack was about 200 degrees. The more air I gave it (2.0-2.5) the hotter the stove top would get (up to 700 before I couldn't stand the heat) and the pipe never stayed over 400 even at those temps! I bet it would have dropped lower if I could have stood to let the stove level out before I cut it back.. The CAT makes all the difference, without it your just wasting wood. I know its a crapload of cash for the cats but I really can't see you getting by without them. If they were there and didn't work at least they would slow the gasses down some, but with them OUT is just a race to the top of the chimney.. I am not a guru and might be wrong, but I have recently talked to a couple of VERY smart folks regarding cat stoves and I think I have learned a lot.

Jason

 

[AppalachianStan]

Now I understand how a cat stove works. Thank you all on your help with this problem of mine.

 

[Trktrd]

I got my stove from the previous owner for free because he was going through the same thing, Stan. I was happy to relieve him of it. Cats were missing and the stove was uncontrollable. Popped in the new cats and BINGO - a well mannered heating machine.

 

[bluedogz]

Just came from installing Blues liner. He has an Appalacian.
He had no gasket on the upper part of the door glass. It appears to be the air wash. If you had the same thing, and added gasket up top, then there is your problem.

OD'ed on hot chocolate eh? Blue has a Sierra Hearthstove.

OOps, BArt is right, strike my post.
I must be tired. ANd have to run all the way to Philly tomorrow.
Cmon weekend!

Do you thinks Blue can get me photo of his door glass gasket. I am waiting for Appalachian teck to call me back. But what I was told so far is the gaskets in my stove are install right. hh:

Stan, if you can tell me what you want a photo of I can send on on Saturday. Hope it'll help.

What Hogz is referring to is that my Sierra Hearthstove has a rudimentary air wash system by leaving gaps in the gasket across the top of the door glass.

 

[AppalachianStan]

I got my stove from the previous owner for free because he was going through the same thing, Stan. I was happy to relieve him of it. Cats were missing and the stove was uncontrollable. Popped in the new cats and BINGO - a well mannered heating machine.

I hope so. When my wife got home late night from work. I had her read the last couple thread and she I guess we need to get the cats for the stove. We were both skeptical of putting more money in to the stove. We are wanting on the cats. I hope it works after that.

 

[Adios Pantalones]

you have a short chimney and live in a warm climate both of these things will work against you getting the stove hot

Yup. I agree. You may need to keep the primary air open a bit more to fire this stove. New gaskets reduces the air coming in.

 

[AppalachianStan]

Just came from installing Blues liner. He has an Appalacian.
He had no gasket on the upper part of the door glass. It appears to be the air wash. If you had the same thing, and added gasket up top, then there is your problem.

OD'ed on hot chocolate eh? Blue has a Sierra Hearthstove.

OOps, BArt is right, strike my post.
I must be tired. ANd have to run all the way to Philly tomorrow.
Cmon weekend!

Do you thinks Blue can get me photo of his door glass gasket. I am waiting for Appalachian teck to call me back. But what I was told so far is the gaskets in my stove are install right. hh:

Stan, if you can tell me what you want a photo of I can send on on Saturday. Hope it'll help.

What Hogz is referring to is that my Sierra Hearthstove has a rudimentary air wash system by leaving gaps in the gasket across the top of the door glass.

We where trying to figure out if my windows gaskets were in right at the top of the windows. Hogwildz say,

Just came from installing Blues liner.
He had no gasket on the upper part of the door glass. It appears to be the air wash. If you had the same thing, and added gasket up top, then there is your problem.

I called Appalachian and they said my gaskets where in right. So I guess I will not need a photo of you gaskets. Thank you Blue.

 

[AppalachianStan]

you have a short chimney and live in a warm climate both of these things will work against you getting the stove hot

Yup. I agree. You may need to keep the primary air open a bit more to fire this stove. New gaskets reduces the air coming in.

I am sorry I do not understand. Primary air do you mean the door being cracked?

 

[BrotherBart]

Primary air is the stove's air control.

 

[Adios Pantalones]

The damper

 

[oldspark]

The damper

The damper is not the primary air, the damper is the flap in the stove pipe us old timers used in the good old days.

 

[AppalachianStan]

Sorry guy if I am a little cloudy today. In a lot of pain. My 25 year old stove has a damper housing that has a slid plate damper bypass at the top of the stove. When the bypass is open it opens the firebox to the chimney. I have one air intake "primary air" and it is not drawing enough air right now with out having the door cracked for a long time to get the stove hot. I hope that after the cat are in it will fix the problem. Just do not know for sure.

 

[begreen]

It seems like every one wants me to spend more money on this stove but I keep spending money and just do not get anywhere with it.

I have to disagree with that statement. Many have advised not spending any money on this old stove and instead replacing it with a modern, under $1000 stove. These suggestions have been resisted, so in response people have tried to help you get the stove in shape.

If the gasket replacement has slowed airflow to the point that the stove can't keep a fire up, then either its intake is blocked (with cobewebs, dust, ash or the like). Or it is getting insufficient draft. If the wood is poorly seasoned, it will make the situation worse. Can we assume that now the stove will not draft well even with the bypass wide open?

If this is the case, try to remove the intake grille if possible and get a good strong shop vac in there to suck it out. Then find all the outlet areas where the air enters the firebox and vacuum them out. Actually, the most effective treatment would be to take the stove outside and blow compressed air through the intake and air passages to get them completely cleared. Also, check the stove cap screen to make sure it is not starting to plug up.

Regardless of the problem, adding a cat at this point is unlikely to solve the issue. If all passages are clear than it could be that the stove just needs more flue to create better draft now that air can no longer seep in like it did past many gaps in the gaskets.

 

[Adios Pantalones]

The damper

The damper is not the primary air, the damper is the flap in the stove pipe us old timers used in the good old days.

That is a pipe or flue damper. His manual describes the primary air control as a "damper control" or something similar. I looked up his manual so that he'd have a reference.

 

[AppalachianStan]

I am sorry Begreen you guys are not the only one I have talk to. Some keep saying add more chimney hight. I am just sick and tired of my problem. I have vacuum out the air intake just need to hobble out to the shared and get the air compressor out to blow out the intakes inside the house there is noway for me getting the stove outside. Has for the stove cap screen if that is on the chimney or in the stove I do not have one. Will I have not seen a screen any where on the stove system.

 

[oldspark]

The damper

The damper is not the primary air, the damper is the flap in the stove pipe us old timers used in the good old days.

That is a pipe or flue damper. His manual describes the primary air control as a "damper control" or something similar. I looked up his manual so that he'd have a reference.

Ok, the terms get mixed up a lot and now it sounds like the manual is even doing it.

 

[AppalachianStan]

Begreen I have had one guy tell me I might need one of them there constant draft chimney fan system.
I called my friend who I got the wood from and he said that it was 2 years old split He said he will bring me some 4 year old stuff.
I have tried 2x4s after the new gaskets, door cracked burn good, latch the door and it smolders.

 

[begreen]

OK, I was fooled by the picture of the roof. It shows a cap on the system. Is that the old 6" pipe system or the new 8" pipe? https://www.hearth.com/econtent/index.php/forums/viewthread/85561/P22/#1034927

Try to do a very good job of cleaning out the air intake manifold and let us know if that helps.

 

[AppalachianStan]

OK, I was fooled by the picture of the roof. It shows a cap on the system. Is that the old 6" pipe system or the new 8" pipe? https://www.hearth.com/econtent/index.php/forums/viewthread/85561/P22/#1034927

Try to do a very good job of cleaning out the air intake manifold and let us know if that helps.

No that is the 8" system but they is no srceen in it. Here is a pic of my cap.

 

[Todd]

If your having a tuff time burning with the bypass open and door closed it will only get worse when you install the cat and close the bypass. The cat acts almost like a damper inside the stove and slows down the draft. Sounds like it's either a chimney problem or something is blocking the primary air for the stove. I'd hold off on spending money for the cats if you can't even burn this thing in the bypass mode which should be a straight shot up the flue. Maybe some mice got in there and built a nest somewhere blocking the air?

 

[AppalachianStan]

Guys I know you all are doing you best to help me. I wish one of you lived near me to see what you can do with the stove I have. It is just frustrating because of the shape I am in to get anything done. At this time it is not feasible for me and my wife to do anything until the money is there. I have hope it will be sooner than later. I have to much money in the SS Class a chimney to damaged it by milting it with to much heat up the chimney. As for blowing it there has not been much to come out of the intakes but hopefully it is enough.