1. Welcome Hearth.com Guests and Visitors - Please enjoy our forums!
    Hearth.com GOLD Sponsors who help bring the site content to you:
    Hearthstone Soapstone and Cast-Iron stoves( Wood, Gas or Pellet Stoves and Inserts)

I MADE THINGS A LOT WORSE!!!!!!!!!!!!

Post in 'The Hearth Room - Wood Stoves and Fireplaces' started by AppalachianStan, Dec 10, 2011.

  1. Stephen in SoKY

    Stephen in SoKY Feeling the Heat

    Joined:
    Nov 20, 2008
    Messages:
    333
    Loc:
    Southern Kentucky
    Stan, I encourage you to re-read Nelraq and Mayhem's posts above. I have a 28' class A six inch, 26' of it are completely enclosed in a heavy wall stone chase. My stove is a very easy breathing, pre-EPA, non cat stove with excellent air flow. I am often able to start fires when it is 55 degrees and falling, based on the barometric pressure trending up at the time. My routine starting point is 50 degrees or below. You are burning some wadded up paper near the flue exit before lighting your fire I assume?

    Helpful Sponsor Ads!





  2. AppalachianStan

    AppalachianStan Minister of Fire

    Joined:
    Nov 4, 2011
    Messages:
    557
    Loc:
    Clover SC
    I was just want to see how it was draft after I used a air compressor to blow out the intake.
    The damper is the bypass damper for the cat.
  3. begreen

    begreen Mooderator Staff Member

    Joined:
    Nov 18, 2005
    Messages:
    49,125
    Loc:
    South Puget Sound, WA
    Good to hear that there is some progress. The next step is to build a bigger fire. Don't close the damper with a kindling fire. Instead, add a few larger splits (maybe 2-3" diam.) in a crisscross fashion, on top of the kindling. Leave the door slightly ajar, maybe 1/2" open and let those sticks get burning good. Leave the air control and the damper open. Once these sticks are burning very hot and well, add 3-5, 4-6" splits on top, placed so that the are parallel to the sides of the stove. Leave the door ajar slightly until the new wood is starting to burn vigorously. Then close the door. Wait now, until the fire gets burning well, then use the air control to reduce intensity to moderate level. Wait a few minutes for the fire to settle. Now try closing the damper maybe halfway. If the fire is very vigorous, try reducing the air some more.
  4. AppalachianStan

    AppalachianStan Minister of Fire

    Joined:
    Nov 4, 2011
    Messages:
    557
    Loc:
    Clover SC
    Yes I use wadded up paper near the flue.
    I like they ideal and I understand about the location, warm climate I live in. The only bad thing I have and all most new 8" chimney that I got $500.00 in. To change it to a 6" system it will run another $500.00 But at less I can buy it over time unlike the 8" system I had to custom order it from Lowe's.My son work for Lowe's and he got the 8" system at cost.
  5. buckdog

    buckdog Member

    Joined:
    Sep 23, 2009
    Messages:
    37
    Loc:
    ortonville, mi
    Enough said about the chimney.. 8" is fine, and you might need to eventually add extra length.

    Right now slowly start pileing on the wood and if you have to leave the door slightly cracked open and build up a good head of steam before you even think of shutting down any air flow. You'll be cooking in no time.

    Once that fire is roaring then slowly start reduceing the air flow.

    Also only put large splits on once fire box has a good pile of HOT coals. Small splits for the first couple of hours. Don't be afraid to burn it hot.
  6. oldspark

    oldspark Guest

    Dont buy the six inch just yet, spend that money on a better stove that truly needs a 8 inch, can some one give me a good reason for him to go to 6 inch because the stove has a 8 inch opening. Lets not spend his money in a hap hazard fashion.
  7. AppalachianStan

    AppalachianStan Minister of Fire

    Joined:
    Nov 4, 2011
    Messages:
    557
    Loc:
    Clover SC
    I have a 24" black stove pipe that I was going to add to see if that will help the draft.
    Do you guys think I should build a big fire first to see how it does?
    or put the pipe on and then build a fire to see how it does?
  8. AppalachianStan

    AppalachianStan Minister of Fire

    Joined:
    Nov 4, 2011
    Messages:
    557
    Loc:
    Clover SC
    I like the way you think.
  9. begreen

    begreen Mooderator Staff Member

    Joined:
    Nov 18, 2005
    Messages:
    49,125
    Loc:
    South Puget Sound, WA
    Agreed. The chimney is drafting, albeit weakly due to the mild temps. Getting a hotter fire going should help once the system warms up.

    If you want to a test to see if more pipe will help, get a 3-4" length of 8" galvanized air duct pipe, remove the cap, and jam it in the top of the flue, crimp down. Do this on a non-windy day. If that makes a big difference, you have your answer. Note that if you add extra pipe permanently, you will need to brace it solidly.
  10. AppalachianStan

    AppalachianStan Minister of Fire

    Joined:
    Nov 4, 2011
    Messages:
    557
    Loc:
    Clover SC
    I understand that. but I will be trying a 24" length of 8" stove pipe.
  11. buckdog

    buckdog Member

    Joined:
    Sep 23, 2009
    Messages:
    37
    Loc:
    ortonville, mi
    That's what I just suggested. Get R Done. Get that fire going, good and hot.
  12. buckdog

    buckdog Member

    Joined:
    Sep 23, 2009
    Messages:
    37
    Loc:
    ortonville, mi
    Stan- you get that stove figured out yet?
    You don't have the fire dept. holding you back from going in your house till it stops smokeing, do ya?

    BTW- that stove install looks a bit intimadating to me, although I sort of think it's kinda neat the way it's balanceing on the rock. You got much distance between the wall and the stove?
  13. AppalachianStan

    AppalachianStan Minister of Fire

    Joined:
    Nov 4, 2011
    Messages:
    557
    Loc:
    Clover SC
    No it is too hot outside to build a fire in that beast. As for the balanceing it is on there and is not going any where. There is only 4" hung over on the sides and 2" over hung on front and back of the stove to the blocks that it sets on. I put it up that high to save my back.That was then and now I have to use a chair or my wheelchair to set in. The wall distance to the stove is just as the back of the stove ask for. But if it will make everyone happy I will look in to have a pedestal made for it?

Share This Page