I MADE THINGS A LOT WORSE!!!!!!!!!!!!

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Stan, I encourage you to re-read Nelraq and Mayhem's posts above. I have a 28' class A six inch, 26' of it are completely enclosed in a heavy wall stone chase. My stove is a very easy breathing, pre-EPA, non cat stove with excellent air flow. I am often able to start fires when it is 55 degrees and falling, based on the barometric pressure trending up at the time. My routine starting point is 50 degrees or below. You are burning some wadded up paper near the flue exit before lighting your fire I assume?
 
buckdog said:
AppalachianStan said:
It has 10 mins now I have the damper closed and the firebox still has flames very small flames with just kindling stove pipe temp is 200*

It sounds like your trying to conserve wood buy building small fires? If it was me, I would build a hot fire by pileing on the wood and burn it like I stole the wood. You need to make sure that fire box is pulling air, and the draft control is not plugged. Also why do you close your damper when your just burning kindling? That damper your referring to is that on your stove pipe above your stove? Any damper shold be wide open till your fire box is up to a sufficient operating temp. Get that fire ripping hot! What kind of spiecies of wood are you burning? Wood might be dry on outside, but wet in middle.
Just trying to help Bro

I was just want to see how it was draft after I used a air compressor to blow out the intake.
The damper is the bypass damper for the cat.
 
AppalachianStan said:
mayhem said:
If you're going to just be replacing the stove eventually anyway, how about just notching the gasket in a couple places and make the thing leak again so you can run it with the door latched shut? Mayb cut out that same section that you said was not present before you replaced the gaskets. I know the mfr told you they were right the way you did it, but you gotta do what you gotta do, right? It worked better before you put the new gaskets in, so try to return it to that state.

I would guess you've got a half dozen minor issues working together against you instead of a silver bullet.

1) You're in a warm climate (my stove has a 26 foot 6" chimney and when its 50 degrees out its damn hard to start a fire).
2) Your chimney is on the short side. But at least the cap is above the peak of your house.
3) Your chimney is 8" diameter. I know you were advised to go to 8" from 6", I beleive this is very bad advice though.
4) The stove may just be a lousy design.

Thank you for you advice. I might start buying up the 6" chimney system. The 6" chimney system is so easy to get around here. I was at Lowe's yesterday evening to get the black stove pipe and they had every thing you would need for it.

Just and up date. blowing the air intake out has help some. I have the door shot and and a lazy flame with kindling and it is 50°F outside. Maybe by add the chimney pipe it will get better.

Good to hear that there is some progress. The next step is to build a bigger fire. Don't close the damper with a kindling fire. Instead, add a few larger splits (maybe 2-3" diam.) in a crisscross fashion, on top of the kindling. Leave the door slightly ajar, maybe 1/2" open and let those sticks get burning good. Leave the air control and the damper open. Once these sticks are burning very hot and well, add 3-5, 4-6" splits on top, placed so that the are parallel to the sides of the stove. Leave the door ajar slightly until the new wood is starting to burn vigorously. Then close the door. Wait now, until the fire gets burning well, then use the air control to reduce intensity to moderate level. Wait a few minutes for the fire to settle. Now try closing the damper maybe halfway. If the fire is very vigorous, try reducing the air some more.
 
Stephen in SoKY said:
Stan, I encourage you to re-read Nelraq and Mayhem's posts above. I have a 28' class A six inch, 26' of it are completely enclosed in a heavy wall stone chase. My stove is a very easy breathing, pre-EPA, non cat stove with excellent air flow. I am often able to start fires when it is 55 degrees and falling, based on the barometric pressure trending up at the time. My routine starting point is 50 degrees or below. You are burning some wadded up paper near the flue exit before lighting your fire I assume?

Yes I use wadded up paper near the flue.
I like they ideal and I understand about the location, warm climate I live in. The only bad thing I have and all most new 8" chimney that I got $500.00 in. To change it to a 6" system it will run another $500.00 But at less I can buy it over time unlike the 8" system I had to custom order it from Lowe's.My son work for Lowe's and he got the 8" system at cost.
 
Enough said about the chimney.. 8" is fine, and you might need to eventually add extra length.

Right now slowly start pileing on the wood and if you have to leave the door slightly cracked open and build up a good head of steam before you even think of shutting down any air flow. You'll be cooking in no time.

Once that fire is roaring then slowly start reduceing the air flow.

Also only put large splits on once fire box has a good pile of HOT coals. Small splits for the first couple of hours. Don't be afraid to burn it hot.
 
Dont buy the six inch just yet, spend that money on a better stove that truly needs a 8 inch, can some one give me a good reason for him to go to 6 inch because the stove has a 8 inch opening. Lets not spend his money in a hap hazard fashion.
 
I have a 24" black stove pipe that I was going to add to see if that will help the draft.
Do you guys think I should build a big fire first to see how it does?
or put the pipe on and then build a fire to see how it does?
 
oldspark said:
Dont buy the six inch just yet, spend that money on a better stove that truly needs a 8 inch, can some one give me a good reason for him to go to 6 inch because the stove has a 8 inch opening. Lets not spend his money in a hap hazard fashion.
I like the way you think.
 
Agreed. The chimney is drafting, albeit weakly due to the mild temps. Getting a hotter fire going should help once the system warms up.

If you want to a test to see if more pipe will help, get a 3-4" length of 8" galvanized air duct pipe, remove the cap, and jam it in the top of the flue, crimp down. Do this on a non-windy day. If that makes a big difference, you have your answer. Note that if you add extra pipe permanently, you will need to brace it solidly.
 
BeGreen said:
Agreed. The chimney is drafting, albeit weakly due to the mild temps. Getting a hotter fire going should help once the system warms up.

If you want to a test to see if more pipe will help, get a 3-4" length of 8" galvanized air duct pipe, remove the cap, and jam it in the top of the flue, crimp down. Do this on a non-windy day. If that makes a big difference, you have your answer. Note that if you add extra pipe permanently, you will need to brace it solidly.

I understand that. but I will be trying a 24" length of 8" stove pipe.
 
buckdog said:
Enough said about the chimney.. 8" is fine, and you might need to eventually add extra length.

Right now slowly start pileing on the wood and if you have to leave the door slightly cracked open and build up a good head of steam before you even think of shutting down any air flow. You'll be cooking in no time.

Once that fire is roaring then slowly start reduceing the air flow.

Also only put large splits on once fire box has a good pile of HOT coals. Small splits for the first couple of hours. Don't be afraid to burn it hot.

AppalachianStan said:
I have a 24" black stove pipe that I was going to add to see if that will help the draft.
Do you guys think I should build a big fire first to see how it does?
or put the pipe on and then build a fire to see how it does?

That's what I just suggested. Get R Done. Get that fire going, good and hot.
 
Stan- you get that stove figured out yet?
You don't have the fire dept. holding you back from going in your house till it stops smokeing, do ya?

BTW- that stove install looks a bit intimadating to me, although I sort of think it's kinda neat the way it's balanceing on the rock. You got much distance between the wall and the stove?
 
buckdog said:
Stan- you get that stove figured out yet?
You don't have the fire dept. holding you back from going in your house till it stops smokeing, do ya?

BTW- that stove install looks a bit intimadating to me, although I sort of think it's kinda neat the way it's balanceing on the rock. You got much distance between the wall and the stove?

No it is too hot outside to build a fire in that beast. As for the balanceing it is on there and is not going any where. There is only 4" hung over on the sides and 2" over hung on front and back of the stove to the blocks that it sets on. I put it up that high to save my back.That was then and now I have to use a chair or my wheelchair to set in. The wall distance to the stove is just as the back of the stove ask for. But if it will make everyone happy I will look in to have a pedestal made for it?
 
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