I need a liitle help identifying my new saw
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Backwoods Savage
Minister of Fire
I'm not nearly smart enough, but if you post the information from that data tag, someone here will know exactly what it is. I agree with Homelite, and would guess the model to be an XL12, but I'm no expert.
Good luck,
Bill
Good luck,
Bill
I think it may be an XL12. When I got it tuned up that's what the guy said.
I should wear a helmet....
I should wear a helmet....
My right hand is far back from the muffler, on that steel handle. It is a little scary because sometimes it kicks. Lots of power, maybe too much.
lctatlp said:
That kicking could indicate a dull chain; there's a reason that a sharp chain is safer than dull.
You might want to learn how to hand-file it, if you don't already know. Let me suggest Granberg's "File-n-Joint" for quick/simple/precise guide.
Those old XLs are VERY NOISY. (Eh, say what?) Serious hearing-protection an absolute must, including for spectators.
I hope you've weaned it off 16:1 mix; 50:1 with mix oil formulated for such is good, so long as carb is properly adjusted, especially the high speed needle.
THe chain is super sharp.
Funny you say that. I read that my saw runs 32:1 My mix is 50:1.. but I drop a few daps of oil in the tank before I start it.
I actually have trouble getting the saw off idle. Once I throttle it 2 or 3 or times it just goes. I would say 50 to 100% throttle it rips, under that I have to play with the throttle.
Funny you say that. I read that my saw runs 32:1 My mix is 50:1.. but I drop a few daps of oil in the tank before I start it.
I actually have trouble getting the saw off idle. Once I throttle it 2 or 3 or times it just goes. I would say 50 to 100% throttle it rips, under that I have to play with the throttle.
jackofalltrades
Member
Looks just like a Homelite xl we use to have. 12 might be the right number, the one we had had a manual oiler on it.
It is a 12, I was told, with a manual oiler. I forget to oil sometimes because I'm used to the Husky 141 I have.
I'm still looking for a helmet...
I'm still looking for a helmet...
That is an XL12. That's the saw I learned to cut with. My dad still has it, but it needs work and instead of spending the money on it, he bought a new saw. He still uses my grandfather's old super xl ao quite a bit, too.
Like CTYank said - VERY noisy. Very powerful, too. And heavy. And cold, hard handles. NO antivibe. Its just ALL saw.
Like CTYank said - VERY noisy. Very powerful, too. And heavy. And cold, hard handles. NO antivibe. Its just ALL saw.
Backwoods Savage
Minister of Fire
Bubbavh said:
That is not necessarily true about the danger. Sorry, but many folks have run those saws for years without any problems. Shoot, the saw I started with was an old gear drive with no safely frills. Heavy bugger though.
Danger is sometimes over-rated. Folks want to be protected from all so-called danger and then they seem to manufacture more danger out of lesser things.
Backwoods Savage said:
The saw is only as dangerous as the operator.
That said, modern saws do have some safety advantages, like chain brakes. Run it, with an eye on upgrading in the future.
I agree with Dennis. Danger is sometimes over-rated. I think its a tomatoe / tomato kind of thing. You say the saw is more dangerous, I say you have to be more careful. Almost all of the machinery and tools I use is older (because I am married and have kids and its what I can afford) and has little to nothing in the way of safety guards, etc. I have to consiously think about safety ALL THE TIME when I'm using that stuff. On a new table saw with the safety drive thing (can't think of the name) IF you somehow get your thumb past the numerous guards, the saw will stop the blade as soon as it somehow senses it's cutting something softer than wood. My table saw will glady cut my hand off and not even feel bad about it. Accidents do happen, but in MOST cases they result from user-error. Safety stuff like chain brakes cover your backside when you make a mistake. I have seen people doing REALLY stupid things with equipment, counting on the "safety" measures to keep them safe.
That said - saws like that XL-12 are scary beasts. They're fun to use, but you have to be careful. I might try to slip my dad's old one in the truck next time I'm home, but for some reason he doesn't like me to be unattended in his shop........
That said - saws like that XL-12 are scary beasts. They're fun to use, but you have to be careful. I might try to slip my dad's old one in the truck next time I'm home, but for some reason he doesn't like me to be unattended in his shop........
smokinj
Minister of Fire
Joe in MI said:
Its the saw stop. Big money, my dad has one. Little to sensitive and cost you ever time it goes off.
Thistle
Minister of Fire
smokinjay said:
Yup I checked them out.Looks good but there's no substitute for common sense,no matter how expensive the equipment may be.Every 'safety' item imaginable on a saw,tool or vehicle wont help if the operator is an idiot to begin with.
1st chainsaw I used was Dad's Poulan 3400 when I was 17.Only about 8000 RPM,but run like a striped-ass ape,with no chain brake or even a front hand guard.And we didnt have that worthless 'safety chain' with the folded over rakers either.Wasnt made back then.Full Chisel is what was sold at farm supply store,hardware store & all saw/small engine dealers & is all I've ever known/used.
smokinj
Minister of Fire
Thistle said:
That table saw is as accurate as I have ever used, but when that safety thing goes off you have to have the factory re-set it. (Or something like that) Cant remember exactly.
Thistle
Minister of Fire
smokinjay said:
Oh wow. I imagine that could be pricey,especially if its out of warranty and/or you live some distance from nearest Dealer.I seen the videos of Roy (St.Roy the antique hand tool guru) Underhill using a chicken drumstick to stop it at Highland Hardware in Atlanta.He's pretty entertaining for crowds.
Singed Eyebrows
Minister of Fire
XL-12, forerunner to the SXL auto. There aren't many new saws 58cc that can pull a 24" bar with standard 3/8 chain. Has a very torquey reed valve engine. This is a professional grade saw, Randylctatlp said:
I cut with Super XLs for 25yrs. Know them well. Owned 4 of them at one time and still have my Dad's he bought new in the 70s. But I wouldn't use it today. Sure they can be picked up in garage sales for all of 25bucks and will cut wood. But for a lousy 200.00 you can buy a new saw that will cut circles around it and won't leave your hands all tingly. My advise is to clean it up, put on nice paint job, and put it on the shelf for display.
Singed Eyebrows
Minister of Fire
I have to disagree on the SawStop. If it triggers, you have to replace a cartridge, about $70, and the blade. The blade gets embedded in an alumium chunk and stops within a tooth rotation and retracts beneath the table. Super cool to see, but priceless if it saves a finger or worse. Or that of, say, a son. It's the first tool I'll purchase for the shop once I get to that point. All the reviews are outstanding, not only have the safety, but also a top notch cabinet saw. Yep, it will set up back an extra few bills, but next time you're talking to your buddy and notice the digit missing on his finger, ask yourself how much is it worth. Are must "accidents" due to carelessness or stupidity? Yep. Are all? Nope. And when it comes down to it, does it matter? Yeah, I agree, it does. But then again, it's a whole 'lot cheaper than a trip to the ER, as stated above.
My understanding is if you cut in wet wood, you may trigger it. So you can override the safety mechanism with a key switch if you desire. It works by sensing the capacitance of the material being cut. Wet, like me and you, and we change the frequency of a signal applied to the blade. When it changes enough, it triggers the mechanism.
It'd be one thing it if was a crappy saw with a safety...but they made a top notch cabinet saw that rivals all the others. Have a high end commercial version, a nice serious hobbyiest cabinet saw, and I think they annouced a cheaper contractor style.
For my 10 fingers, and especially when I think about my wife and son, not sure I could purchase a better insurance plan. Just imagine if such a thing was mounted to our chainsaws. That accidently swipe through the leg, foot, arm, head, whatever....wouldn't be a problem. Yep, that's what boots and chaps are for, I agree. But for those of you with stitches...wouldn't it have been nice to buy a new chain and $80 for a new module instead of paying for 30 stitches? Sh!t happens...might as well prevent it if you can.
Off the soap box now.
My understanding is if you cut in wet wood, you may trigger it. So you can override the safety mechanism with a key switch if you desire. It works by sensing the capacitance of the material being cut. Wet, like me and you, and we change the frequency of a signal applied to the blade. When it changes enough, it triggers the mechanism.
It'd be one thing it if was a crappy saw with a safety...but they made a top notch cabinet saw that rivals all the others. Have a high end commercial version, a nice serious hobbyiest cabinet saw, and I think they annouced a cheaper contractor style.
For my 10 fingers, and especially when I think about my wife and son, not sure I could purchase a better insurance plan. Just imagine if such a thing was mounted to our chainsaws. That accidently swipe through the leg, foot, arm, head, whatever....wouldn't be a problem. Yep, that's what boots and chaps are for, I agree. But for those of you with stitches...wouldn't it have been nice to buy a new chain and $80 for a new module instead of paying for 30 stitches? Sh!t happens...might as well prevent it if you can.
Off the soap box now.
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