I need a pep talk. Getting discouraged with new Jotul Oslo...
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Sorry you are having a bad experience but you will get it worked out. This is my first year, and my wood is not perfect.( mix with dry stuff) the furnace has not kicked on this season, ( 1200 sq.ft so so insulated) As others have told you MM can be ordered cheap from amazon, good luck and a beautiful install.
Cpt
Cpt
Well, 9' huh? Add 1' to window height and another, maybe 2' vertical inside the house. Sounds like right around 12'. I think the minimum Oslo recommends is 14' of 6" SS. The 8x8 flue isn't helping any. I got away with around 13' with 6" SS from Feb-April this year but have now extended mine 2' - not due to poor draft, just to get my woodstove flue taller than my oil furnace flue.
Sounds like you need to extend the height just a bit and get a 6" liner in there - and check the moisture content of your wood.
Nice setup!
Shari
Sounds like you need to extend the height just a bit and get a 6" liner in there - and check the moisture content of your wood.
Nice setup!
Shari
Yeah, that's my thought...I may only be around 12ft. Not happy about that. I did just check the manual, not that I doubted you guys but 14' is the minimum. Uggh. Need to get a measurement
It also says this about the flue...
To me that means my 8x8 flue is fine...no?
I do get some smoke, albeit very little when I open the door. This morning my glass was hazed too from not getting up too temp.
It also says this about the flue...
To me that means my 8x8 flue is fine...no?
I do get some smoke, albeit very little when I open the door. This morning my glass was hazed too from not getting up too temp.
SKIN052
Minister of Fire
I told ya how to fix that Summit, did you read my PM? Sorry, Hijacked another thread, carry on......oldspark said:
I think KoKo is at the bare minmum with regards to hight and chimney set up. Extened it slightly and lining it with 6" would help allot I am sure of it. The fact that he has a whole story of cold chimney underneath his set up really throws me off, is this normal?
SKIN052 said:
It is done that way sometimes but does add to the 'cold' inside the 8x8.
OP: Yes, the manual says 8x8 is allowed but dealing with the clean out a full story below might also be impacting your draft. Make sure that clean out door is securely closed.
Shari
I wonder about that cold chimney below too. Hopefully someone will know and chime in.
Yes the cleanout door is securely shut.
Yes the cleanout door is securely shut.
madrone
Minister of Fire
Yikes Koko! Glad you're OK. You made it farther up a ladder than I can go.
I agree that starting with some bundles of kiln-dried wood makes the most sense. Get over the learning curve before spending any money on changing things. It may be that it just hasn't gotten up to temperature.
If you end up with a liner, it can be cleaned with flexible rods. But first things first.
I agree that starting with some bundles of kiln-dried wood makes the most sense. Get over the learning curve before spending any money on changing things. It may be that it just hasn't gotten up to temperature.
If you end up with a liner, it can be cleaned with flexible rods. But first things first.
You cant fix stupid! Yes I read your PM, stove still has me thinking it has a mind of its own at times.SKIN052 said:
Update...
Maybe my wife is better at the stove than me? Still having issues, but she does have the temp up to 450 degrees. Only problem is when she shuts the door the fire just dies down. It burns, but not properly at all. The wood is catching quickly off the coals. Right now I'm leaning towards draft versus wood, but that's me. Hopefully grabbing a MM today after work.
Maybe my wife is better at the stove than me? Still having issues, but she does have the temp up to 450 degrees. Only problem is when she shuts the door the fire just dies down. It burns, but not properly at all. The wood is catching quickly off the coals. Right now I'm leaning towards draft versus wood, but that's me. Hopefully grabbing a MM today after work.
SKIN052
Minister of Fire
I see the temps in Dudley are cool so you should be able to create a decent draft. Getting the temp up to 450 sounds like more than enough to warm up the chimney, if that is possible with your set up. My bet is on the draft. Not too sure about draft inducors or how they work but may be worth a look. just something to think about. You have such a nice set up that it is disipointing you are not getting the full effect. keep plugging at it, you will figure it out. Or the wife will, lol.
A few things nobody mentioned yet......I think:
Is it cold in your parts yet, the colder the better regarding draft meaning, come mid winter this problem may go away if only for a while.
That beautiful new house of yours I'm sure has very little outdoor air infiltration........maybe crack the window a little while getting the stove/chimney temps. good and hot.
Prevailing winds and down draft......I have one of these "vacu-stack" caps it is supposed to help draft that is otherwise hampered by wind.
Damn chimney's, not one is the same and predicting a new installation will be fool proof is near impossible!
Sure is a purdy setup you have there, keep after it, you will get there.
Is it cold in your parts yet, the colder the better regarding draft meaning, come mid winter this problem may go away if only for a while.
That beautiful new house of yours I'm sure has very little outdoor air infiltration........maybe crack the window a little while getting the stove/chimney temps. good and hot.
Prevailing winds and down draft......I have one of these "vacu-stack" caps it is supposed to help draft that is otherwise hampered by wind.
Damn chimney's, not one is the same and predicting a new installation will be fool proof is near impossible!
Sure is a purdy setup you have there, keep after it, you will get there.
Skier76
Minister of Fire
Since I feel somewhat responsible, I need to chime in. I'm very glad Koko didn't poop his pants and fall off the roof...I really would have felt bad if that happened. :lol:
Some of you may know, I have probably the crappiest chimney setup on hearth.com. My Castine is connected to an 8" exterior chimney that's just under 14' high and doesn't clear the ridgeline. I also have two 90 degree bends; one inside and one outside. If I can get my stove to work, anyone can.
I'm thinking a few things are at play; draft and wood moisture. A moisute meter will help with the wood, so I won't go into that. For now, try splitting some of those splits into smaller splits. When you do get the fire going, even with the door cracked, can you hear any sizzling? Is there "bubbling" at the ends of the splits? If you see/hear that, the wood is a bit wet
Get the Euro intake plate. This is probably the most cost effective way to deal with a draft/wet wood situation. I'm thinking once you have that, you'll be able to shut the door and let the stove do it's thing. It still may struggle to crank with the wet wood, but that will help a lot. I'd go that route before even thinking about slip lining. Also, as mentioned, see if opening the window makes a difference.
Does anyone have a Jotul part number for the Oslo's intake plate? Is that called the "inspection cover" in the manual?
Some of you may know, I have probably the crappiest chimney setup on hearth.com. My Castine is connected to an 8" exterior chimney that's just under 14' high and doesn't clear the ridgeline. I also have two 90 degree bends; one inside and one outside. If I can get my stove to work, anyone can.
I'm thinking a few things are at play; draft and wood moisture. A moisute meter will help with the wood, so I won't go into that. For now, try splitting some of those splits into smaller splits. When you do get the fire going, even with the door cracked, can you hear any sizzling? Is there "bubbling" at the ends of the splits? If you see/hear that, the wood is a bit wet
Get the Euro intake plate. This is probably the most cost effective way to deal with a draft/wet wood situation. I'm thinking once you have that, you'll be able to shut the door and let the stove do it's thing. It still may struggle to crank with the wet wood, but that will help a lot. I'd go that route before even thinking about slip lining. Also, as mentioned, see if opening the window makes a difference.
Does anyone have a Jotul part number for the Oslo's intake plate? Is that called the "inspection cover" in the manual?
Nice set up Koko.
Try splitting your wood smaller.
Split every thing to 1/4 the size it is now.
Get the fire going for a few hours then throw in sime bigger pieces.
Bigger pieces meaning 5"
Try splitting your wood smaller.
Split every thing to 1/4 the size it is now.
Get the fire going for a few hours then throw in sime bigger pieces.
Bigger pieces meaning 5"
Firewalker it was in the low 20'sF last night. 30's during the day.
I have tried opening a window right next to the fire place a few times. I actually opened my garage side door, left the door into the house open and the window last night. Didn't help once that Oslo door was shut.
Skier76, can you check your Ipad and see if there is an "app for that" about this chiney issue ;-P
I really don't think the wood is the issue. It's not hissing or bubbling. I would like to try the Euro plate. Waiting to hear back from where I bought it on that.
I have tried opening a window right next to the fire place a few times. I actually opened my garage side door, left the door into the house open and the window last night. Didn't help once that Oslo door was shut.
Skier76, can you check your Ipad and see if there is an "app for that" about this chiney issue ;-P
I really don't think the wood is the issue. It's not hissing or bubbling. I would like to try the Euro plate. Waiting to hear back from where I bought it on that.
Skier76
Minister of Fire
LMAO! I'm hoping there's a "cractling fire app". So I can mount it on the wall in our bedroom in CT...and we can have that nice Jotul glow. It just won't be as toasty.
SKIN052
Minister of Fire
Skier76 said:
Here it is, Fireplace HD
http://itunes.apple.com/us/app/fireplace-hd/id364188191?mt=8
Fireside HD provides a fire so lifelike and captivating, you will feel the heat on your face and smell the dark smoky scent of the hearth. Fireplace HD is a spectacular display of cinema quality high definition video for your iPad. It features a crackling woodburning fire so realistic you'll get hot!
DanCorcoran
Minister of Fire
I agree with the idea of not spending any money on alterations until you've exhausted the wet wood issue.
After that, however, let me make two points:
- I'm not sure how your chimney is situated, but if you measure down from the top of the chimney 2 feet, you should be able to swing a 10-foot long horizontal line in a complete circle around the chimney without touching the roof at all. That is the idea behind the requirement that the top of the chimney be 2 feet above any point on the roof within 10 feet horizontally. It doesn't make any difference if it's the sloped portion of the roof, the ridge, the roof over the main house, or the roof over the living room. (I'm not suggesting that you get back on the roof and start swinging ropes, though).
- Is there any relatively simple way you can block the portion of the chimney below the point where the flue enters, just for grins? I realize you need to keep the cleanout, but it would be a way to test to see if all that cold mass below the flue entry is somehow impacting your draft. Whatever you block it with would just be temporary, and would obviously need to be fireproof. If it worked, you could explore some sort of a flap down there, to be opened for cleaning.
After that, however, let me make two points:
- I'm not sure how your chimney is situated, but if you measure down from the top of the chimney 2 feet, you should be able to swing a 10-foot long horizontal line in a complete circle around the chimney without touching the roof at all. That is the idea behind the requirement that the top of the chimney be 2 feet above any point on the roof within 10 feet horizontally. It doesn't make any difference if it's the sloped portion of the roof, the ridge, the roof over the main house, or the roof over the living room. (I'm not suggesting that you get back on the roof and start swinging ropes, though).
- Is there any relatively simple way you can block the portion of the chimney below the point where the flue enters, just for grins? I realize you need to keep the cleanout, but it would be a way to test to see if all that cold mass below the flue entry is somehow impacting your draft. Whatever you block it with would just be temporary, and would obviously need to be fireproof. If it worked, you could explore some sort of a flap down there, to be opened for cleaning.
mikepinto65
Minister of Fire
Great set up KoKo, and congrats on your new home. I cant speak for the 8x8, but I have an 8" chimney thats been working fine for me here. Hopefully its just the wood, not that you would want that issue, but its better than having to change your set up... Once you get it figured out though you will be more than happy with the stove. The Oslo was so efficient at heating my 2100sf, that I only went threw 3/4 tank of oil from oct last year to june of this year!
Keep us updated.
Keep us updated.
Skier76
Minister of Fire
SKIN052 said:
Wow! That's too funny! Koko, there is an app for that!
Keep us posted on your progress tonight. You'll get it sorted out soon.
ansehnlich1
Retired Hearth.com Member
I wanted to comment that the Jotul Oslo manual states a wall pass through must have 12 inches of non-combustible surrounding the thimble, meaning no drywall, framing, or other flammables within 12 inches of the thimble, meaning basically a 30 inch square/circle of masonry through which the thimble passes. The manual also has a clear diagram indicating how to construct such a wall pass through.
Well tonight I picked up a moisture meter at Lowe's some kiln dried wood and an ash bucket.
You're all going to be surprised. It's not the wood. I first split a kiln dried piece and measure that. It read 19.4%. I then grabbed 3 different pieces of wood from my stack outside. On of them seemed much heavier and I would hace suspected it was wet. I split each piece 3 times. So i had nine pieces total to measure. The lighter pieces that looked like red oak to me. Measured from 20.1% go 23.6% for the heavier piece that I suspected may have been wet.
Needless to say, I was able to get the fire up to 450 in rather short time using smaller splits. That's definitely the ticket at least in raising temps. Still dies down with the door shut but after it hits a bit over 450 I can close the door but still need the air control wide open.
I know a few have suggested that I open a window and I have done that with little difference. I'm still thinking it's my chimney height.
Dan thank you for the tip on measuring. I didn't go back on the roof, but I did bring out the ladder and went up from the ground this time instead of the deck. HA! My rough measure is that my chimney is only around 12.5ft. So I do your measurement process Dan, I"m guessing that my chimeny is 10 ft exactly from the top instead of down two feet from the top. I'd put money it. With knowing that I did call the mason who built the chimney. I actually went to HS with him. Waiting to hear what the cost would be for a 3 foot extension, just so I have an idea. I"m not jumping to that route right now. I would like to get my hands on a euro plate though and see if that could get me by for now.
You're all going to be surprised. It's not the wood. I first split a kiln dried piece and measure that. It read 19.4%. I then grabbed 3 different pieces of wood from my stack outside. On of them seemed much heavier and I would hace suspected it was wet. I split each piece 3 times. So i had nine pieces total to measure. The lighter pieces that looked like red oak to me. Measured from 20.1% go 23.6% for the heavier piece that I suspected may have been wet.
Needless to say, I was able to get the fire up to 450 in rather short time using smaller splits. That's definitely the ticket at least in raising temps. Still dies down with the door shut but after it hits a bit over 450 I can close the door but still need the air control wide open.
I know a few have suggested that I open a window and I have done that with little difference. I'm still thinking it's my chimney height.
Dan thank you for the tip on measuring. I didn't go back on the roof, but I did bring out the ladder and went up from the ground this time instead of the deck. HA! My rough measure is that my chimney is only around 12.5ft. So I do your measurement process Dan, I"m guessing that my chimeny is 10 ft exactly from the top instead of down two feet from the top. I'd put money it. With knowing that I did call the mason who built the chimney. I actually went to HS with him. Waiting to hear what the cost would be for a 3 foot extension, just so I have an idea. I"m not jumping to that route right now. I would like to get my hands on a euro plate though and see if that could get me by for now.
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